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As some of you know, I've started the Tire Guy Mafia ( https://www.tireguymafia.com/ ) to help out some of those in the sport. So I've never tried to overstate my position, because on any day you can get your butt kicked by the most unlikely...
All good advice above. I'll just add that running E85 may exacerbate the issue a bit as fuel demand is greater. Are you running a return or returnless fuel system? (see full post)
There is a barely perceptible weave when catching the light just right, I didn't even notice it at first glance. Since I'll be priming/painting it anyway I don't think it'll take much to hit it with a coat of primer/filler and block it smooth... (see full post)
14 lbs. vs 22 lbs for a 2014 hood. I think the carbon might be a little stronger though, and even at that mine flexes a bit. Haven't road tested yet to see how well it holds shape, but others here may have experience and more info. (see full post)
I'm guessing that part is made of polypropylene, similar S197 parts are. Polypropylene can be difficult to bond but with a quick search I found this stuff which sounds like it might do the trick. If you go this route don't just glue the fractured... (see full post)
https://vorshlag-store.com/collections/vorshlag-camber-plates/products/vorshlag-ford-05-14-s197-mustang-aluminum-camber-caster-plates-perches (see full post)
The leading edge of pads will wear faster than the trailing edge in a caliper with equal sized piston, that's why racing calipers often have staggered piston sizes. That much taper after a single track day suggests that your pad compound is not... (see full post)
You can't go wrong with the Vorshlag plates. Maybe not "bang for the buck" but highly regarded around here, definitely not "junk".
To get close to 3° you may need to open the hole at the top of the strut tower too.
I don't trust camber bolts so much. (see full post)
If you do, be aware that fenders like these are far from ready to bolt on and paint. They are not as rigid as the OEM and flex/bow/twist when trying to match up the body lines and gaps. Getting one spot right tends to introduce errors elsewhere... (see full post)
What torque arm do you have? If it's anything like my Cortex arm I don't think you even need to support the axle, it will just hang in the full droop position. If you're trying to gain access to the trans & drive shaft I think you can just remove... (see full post)
Started its life as a 2011 GT. In 2013 the original owner started the process of converting the GT to a clone of the Boss 302R. The journey began at Capaldi Racing where they installed the roll cage, based on the cage in the 302R, and began work...
I finally got all my painting stuff. Anybody that's done painting in CA probably knows, getting the good paint here is a problem, but I got some paint that'll work ok.
Having a proper place to paint is another issue, here's my redneck paintbooth... (see full post)
While waiting for my engine bay paint I took some time to prep everything. Scuffing and sanding in every nook and cranny took me a LONG time because I'm a first-time painter and don't know what good enough is, as a compulsive perfectionist I seem... (see full post)
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