Happy birthday, young man.

Installed ARP rear wheel studs to match the fronts; replaced right rear caliper (frozen/ gouged piston--cut 1/4" off banjo bolt to make sure it doesn't happen again); installed Gloc street pads in the back to match the fronts; ABS system bleed and manual pressure bleed all four corners.

I figured as much--that's why I ordered the reman caliper. When/if it fails, I will give Lars a call. I didn't see scoring in the bore, but there must have been something. I'm starting to wonder if I used a longer banjo bolt in the right caliper, as discussed in the thread linked above. Thanks!

Piston would not turn in either direction (in/out), so I could not install new pads. Old pads had only ~4000 street miles, so piston was only extended about 5mm.That was still 2mmtoo far to fit the new pads.

OEM GT rear calipers, Steeda braided stainless lines. This weekend replaced wheel studs and brake pads (from OPTim, of course). Left side no problem--piston retracted easily with tool. Right side piston would not move. Reviewed this thread...

Kenny Wallace. https://www.essentiallysports.com/nascar-news-sure-would-like-to-have-dale-earnhardt-sr-here-kenny-wallace-lauds-nascar-for-saving-ryan-preeces-life/

Thanks for the replies. Bled Saturday-nary a bubble from the rears, but small streams of tiny bubbles from both fronts. Pedal now feels like it did before my hub adventure. DaveW: Not a silly question. Hub nuts (both sides) torqued out at 221 lb-ft with a full inch of play left on the spindle...

Jealous. Have you posted details of the blue staging ramp for the QuickJacks? Interested in others' experiences before I begin learning from my own mistakes.

I did the ABS Forscan bleed and two bleeds with Motive Products after adding the big brakes. The pedal has been soft-ish, but about what everyone who has done the upgrade describes. My post was because it got much worse after replacing the hubs, even though the fluid system wasn't opened. I will...

My car is a 2009 GT 3V, currently daily driven but I hope not much longer. About a year ago I installed Brembo 6-pot calipers, 15" Gyrodisc rotors, titanium shields and GLOC street pads. (The front brakes are also ducted, but I don't think that has anything to do with my current issue.) As usual...

Thanks. I might try heat. Currently there is zero daylight between the race and spindle, so I'm not sure a bearing puller would work. But if I can get it to move a little bit....

If a pipe wrench doesn't work I'm likely looking at a new spindle anyway, so I might try the flame wrench. Thanks!

Yeah, kinda figured I might be looking at a new spindle. Will try pipe + pipe wrench first. Thanks, BS1.

I'll try the pipe wrench with a comealong. other suggestions are outside my limited tool- or skill-set. thank you!

Good--and bad. The good is that TMO once again has reminded me of lessons from my teens and twenties working on cars. When I read xr7's post my reaction was Doh! Of course I should use a gear puller. And for $12.99 at HF it did the trick, sort of. Now the bad: I managed to pull the outside half...