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S197 3V 11-14 rear upper arm and bracket in 05-10 body

Norm Peterson

Corner Barstool Sitter
939
709
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
a few miles east of Philly
According to BMR, yes.

Side view geometry should be slightly more stable - less variation with ride height due to the length of the later-year upper link being a bigger proportion of the lower link length (which remained unchanged).

Technically it's not a difficult swap, but there are a few 'gotchas'. It's likely that the fuel tank will have to be lowered, and I think the hole in the floorpan needs to be enlarged a bit for the later (larger) bolt that goes there. There's a Torx bit involved somewhere in this at least for some cars (where not all T50 bits will work), mentioned in the BMR installation link for the early upper and mount. With BMR's bracket anyway, rear mounting hole tolerances in the bracket are apparently tighter than Ford's, so a little oversizing of the holes may be necessary.

The best discussion I've found was here, from which I've snipped a couple of pertinent quotes.

There are several differences between the 05-10 and the 11-14 UCA and UCA mount. The UCA for the 05-10 is 8.5" long, while the UCA for the 11-14 is 9.5" long. The overall length of the mount and arm assembly is the same, but the 11-14 mount had to have the cross bolt moved back 1" to compensate for the longer arm. Ford decided to go with this longer upper control arm because it will result in a more stable rear end, reducing axle movement during suspension travel. The longer your control arm, the more gradual the suspension movement is.
Upgrading to the 11-14 upper control arm is a very simple upgrade. The only parts you need are the 11-14 arm (BMR part number UTCA030, UTCA032, UTCA033), 11-14 mount (BMR part number UCM002), and 11-14 forward bolt (OEM part number W714389-S439). 05-10 UCA/mount should NEVER be mixed with 11-14 UCA/mount. The 11-14 hardware is much larger (18mm) than the 05-10 (14mm). Along with the hardware changes, the mounting point on the bracket will cause your pinion angle to pitch up or down dramatically.



I've been considering going to the longer upper link for my '08 for some time now, but haven't yet found any obvious need to do so yet.


Norm
 
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racer47

Still winning after 30+ years
347
409
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
SE WI
I've done it. Its easy. Nothing needs to be clearanced. It all bolts right in. The longer 3rd link and the top hole of the new mount reduces the angle of the 3rd link which results in more anti squat and a much longer instant center on lowered cars.
 
116
83
OP, this came up recently on Billy Johnson's project s197, see posts 32, 53, and 54:

 

Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
449
449
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Connecticut
I think it's the bolt located under the rear seat that needs to be torqued using the spin of the Earth. Make sure you've got (or borrowed) a suitable torque wrench.
 

racer47

Still winning after 30+ years
347
409
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
SE WI
While the longer upper arm is better for drag racing and forward bite the shorter arm is better for auto-X and road course applications.
Thats simply not true at all.
 

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