The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

S197 3V 2007 Mustang GT Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
960
1,033
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
SoCal
Hello all,

I'd like to introduce my 2007 Mustang GT and chronicle progress as well as ask any questions for my 3v red-headed stepchild here. My intent is to have a reliable, fun track toy. I will be consolidating everything to Ford Performance and Cortex parts as much as possible.

First, the mods:

Engine/Drivetrain Modifications
- Ford Performance CAI
- Kooks Catback
- MGW Short Throw Shifter
- Exedy Mach 400 Clutch
- Exedy Lightweight Flywheel
- Black Ford Racing Valve Covers
- Steeda HD Engine Mounts
- JHR Stainless Steel Clutch Line
- Ford Performance Intake Manifold

Suspension Modifications
- Cortex single adjustable JRi coilovers
- Cortex track-spec watts link
- BMR Double Adjustable LCAs with spherical bearings
- BMR LCA Relocation Brackets
- BMR UCA & mount with spherical bearing
- CHE K-Member Brace with Torque Limiters
- Maximum Motorsports Bumpsteer Kit
- Steeda Balljoints
- Prothane front lower control arms bushings
- Whiteline front sway bar

Wheel/Tire Modifications
- 18x9.5 GT500 Wheels
- 275/40-18 Hankook RS4s
- J&M Stainless Steel Brake Lines
- Ford Racing Brembos
- Pagid RSTs
- ARP studs/open lug nuts

Interior/Exterior Modifications
- 8" Shorty Antenna
- Raxiom Sequential Taillights
- MMD Matte Black Taillight Trim
- MMD Spoiler
- GT/CS Front & Rear Bumpers
- SHR Decklid Panel
- Smoked Turn Signals
- Steeda Hood Pins
- Track Spec Motorsports GT2 louvers
- Cobra Suzuka Pro seats
- Maximum Motorsports rollbar
- Racequip six point harnesses
- Bullitt grille

Awaiting Installation
- Ford Performance Hot Rod Cams
- Ford Performance Shorty Headers
- Ford Performance X-Pipe
- Ford Performance High Performance Radiator
- Ford High Performance Cooling Fan
- Ford High Volume Oil Pump
- Multimatic UCA
- Ford Performance Boss 302S LCAs
- Ford Performance One-piece Driveshaft
- Boss 302 Strut Tower Brace
- Ford Performance Steering Wheel
- Ford Performance 62mm Throttle Body
- Ford Performance FR500S Axle-Back
- Ford Performance LCA Relo Mounts
- Ford Performance Motor Mounts
- Apex 18x11" EC-7 wheels in satin black
- JLT Brake Cooling Ducts
- K-Member Brace

That list is probably missing something.

I've been to Streets of Willow, Palmer, New Jersey Motorsports Park, Thompson, and Lime Rock Park.
 
Last edited:
That's a great looking build and welcome to TMO. Good luck with the time trials and guys like @ArizonaBOSS have a lot of knowledge to share.
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
960
1,033
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
SoCal
Thanks everyone. I am very happy with how it handles. I've been focusing on seat time but that cracked wheel has made me pause until I can get my replacements in.
 
Nice car, I'm kind of heading in the same direction with mine, but lower end spec parts. Mine has 19x10 SVE wheels with 285/35R19 Tires. Yours is the second mention I've seen of Forgestars cracking, I'm glad I didn't go with them.

I don't see a brake upgrade in your list of mods, so if you're interested this is how I upgraded mine to 14" front rotors with 4 pot brembos in the front and 13.8" rotors in the rear: https://mustangforums.com/forum/200...for-those-who-think-they-can-t-afford-it.html
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
960
1,033
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
SoCal
Nice car, I'm kind of heading in the same direction with mine, but lower end spec parts. Mine has 19x10 SVE wheels with 285/35R19 Tires. Yours is the second mention I've seen of Forgestars cracking, I'm glad I didn't go with them.

I don't see a brake upgrade in your list of mods, so if you're interested this is how I upgraded mine to 14" front rotors with 4 pot brembos in the front and 13.8" rotors in the rear: https://mustangforums.com/forum/200...for-those-who-think-they-can-t-afford-it.html

Those wheels were pretty well abused during their time so I don't think it's a brand-specific issue.

I have the four piston Brembos, stainless steel lines, better fluid and pads up front. Haven't done much with the rears except stainless steel lines.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,552
2,392
Arizona, USA
Aside from the expense, the Coyote is pretty reliable and fire-and-forget. You can have 380whp (stock) all the way to 460whp with just intake/TB/headers and competent tuning--and no blower/intercooler weight up front.
 
4,460
4,250
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Aside from the expense, the Coyote is pretty reliable and fire-and-forget. You can have 380whp (stock) all the way to 460whp with just intake/TB/headers and competent tuning--and no blower/intercooler weight up front.

I have to agree, if you're up for the swap, a coyote is the way to go.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
960
1,033
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
SoCal
That's kind of what I figured. Scavenging salvage parts may help bring some of the cost down. Is anything required for the dash or does a kit cover that too?
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
960
1,033
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
SoCal
Nice work, Chris! I don't see the 'need' for the engine swap or power upgrades...Slicks, wheels and track consumables are all that's 'needed'. What tires are going on the 18x11s?

Thanks!

I don't have a need for anything other than seat time. I start planning things years in advance though so I can save up the cash for them. The car significantly outperforms my driving ability. Same for the tires. The wheels will come before anything else is done. I am going to be spending a couple years overseas with no vehicles so it's much too early to say what I'll be getting. I just picked up some GT500 wheels in order to be able to even drive the car and store it.

I'd sell it for a 12-14 GT but the car is paid off and the mods are worth more than the car is. I don't want another car payment now that I've got basically zero debt. I'm cheap like that.

Edit: as an addendum, the engine modifications will follow whatever time trial class I end up running in when the time comes. I would hate to accidentally bump myself up a class and be non-competitive or end up having to spend way more money than I'm willing to shell out.
 
Last edited:

Boone

Professional Thread Killer
Sounds like you have your addiction under control. That's a good thing.

As for the NA 3V build, I have taken my car about as far as I can go NA and on pump gas with the exception of compression (I'm 10.2:1). Dyno tune yielded 417whp, which is easily attainable with a Coyote for much less coin. There is no substitute for being able to control the intake and exhaust valves independently, as they are on the 4 cam Coyote. On the other hand, 3V motors have shown that even though they don't suck (NA), they swallow (FI). Going FI will wake up a 3V, and the power limits on a built motor are well above usable for a track car. Hence the reason I didn't go 'all in' with 12:1 compression. As you know, the weight penalty sucks, but it can be dealt with if you have mad skills like Fabman.
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
960
1,033
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
SoCal
Sounds like you have your addiction under control. That's a good thing.

As for the NA 3V build, I have taken my car about as far as I can go NA and on pump gas with the exception of compression (I'm 10.2:1). Dyno tune yielded 417whp, which is easily attainable with a Coyote for much less coin. There is no substitute for being able to control the intake and exhaust valves independently, as they are on the 4 cam Coyote. On the other hand, 3V motors have shown that even though they don't suck (NA), they swallow (FI). Going FI will wake up a 3V, and the power limits on a built motor are well above usable for a track car. Hence the reason I didn't go 'all in' with 12:1 compression. As you know, the weight penalty sucks, but it can be dealt with if you have mad skills like Fabman.

Holy cow, 417whp? What have you done to get that, just out of curiosity?

At that power level, I can definitely see where a Coyote swap would be more cost effective. Depending on the class restrictions, I'd be aiming for something more like a 10:1 power/weight ratio. The car weighed in at around 3470 without me in it (3640 with me in it) and most of the interior still intact, so I wouldn't be shooting for those numbers. I'm quite sure I could get around 340-360whp no problem, with a little room to go lower or higher. Like you said though, maybe it's easier to detune/tune the Coyote to be able to meet different class restrictions? I will also have to be considering aero mods as well, so who knows where this thing will end up.

Of course, in three years a Coyote swap may be a lot cheaper so this all might be a moot point!

Some days I want to just say screw the classing and build it however I want it to play with it. A lot of my track friends seem to find this more of a job than a hobby trying to keep up and I'd prefer to keep it fun.
 
4,460
4,250
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Holy cow, 417whp? What have you done to get that, just out of curiosity?

At that power level, I can definitely see where a Coyote swap would be more cost effective. Depending on the class restrictions, I'd be aiming for something more like a 10:1 power/weight ratio. The car weighed in at around 3470 without me in it (3640 with me in it) and most of the interior still intact, so I wouldn't be shooting for those numbers. I'm quite sure I could get around 340-360whp no problem, with a little room to go lower or higher. Like you said though, maybe it's easier to detune/tune the Coyote to be able to meet different class restrictions? I will also have to be considering aero mods as well, so who knows where this thing will end up.

Of course, in three years a Coyote swap may be a lot cheaper so this all might be a moot point!

Some days I want to just say screw the classing and build it however I want it to play with it. A lot of my track friends seem to find this more of a job than a hobby trying to keep up and I'd prefer to keep it fun.
Well, I'll tell ya....
I made 700 rwhp with my stroked and blown 3 valve and it flat hauls the mail.
BUT, it cost a mint to do it. The Coyote motor came out just as I was finishing my build.
Lousey timing, I know. I spent 4000.00 on a killer set of stage 3 CNC ported heads that are as awesome as they come.....and they don't flow all that much more than a set of stock Coyote heads. :( That's how much better a Coyote is.
If you want to make any real horsepower, the smart money is on the Coyote.
Also, the Coyote will live longer. A modified 3V is on the edge around 450 rwhp. After that you need a built short block which will send the cost up over a new Coyote motor from Ford. I love my 3V but, they are obsolete. Besides, who in their right mind needs a 700 hp track day car....? ;)
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Top