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SN95 24 hours lemons Build Thread Profile - SN95 Mustangs

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In with the new - out with the old!
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play by play recap-

Magnet pulled some interesting metal out of the old
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carrier bearings were pitted
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Swapped ring gear onto tru trac
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Left the pinion alone - didn’t have the confidence to set pinion depth. Maybe next time!

set backlash, checked gear pattern, replaced bearings, seals, and installed some used axels that were in good shape.

Top it off with shiny new finned cover. Over looked ordering the one with linger
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to upgrade rear brakes you need differential anchor brackets. I had ford ones on order for months before I decided to go with th dual caliper brackets. I will only run one caliper though :)

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10.5 vs 11.5

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vented is much wider! Had to clearance the caliper brackets to make it fit.344E2ACA-9182-45A8-B344-96019E078D0F.jpeg

Pulled arp studs in with some low grade nuts, grade 8 washers and impact. First go used generic washers and those got ate up pretty quick!
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Went to reference Haynes manual before rebuilding the rear calipers and was surprised to see this. And they were right it was a total pain.
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No joke first one took 10 hours. 9 of those were trying to get one snap ring in place. once I bought the right snap ring plyers for $15 it was easy and only took an hour.
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new brake hoses and all back into place.
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ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
I'm not sure about the SN95, but on the S197 it's less trouble just to replace the caliper altogether rather than try to rehab them. The cost isn't astronomical.
It could be worth trying to rig up some rear brake cooling (deflectors, or scoop and tube) if you keep having issues.
You might also consider rigging up a differential cooler setup considering the long hours you will be putting on the car on-track.

That paint scheme looks great! Probably one of the best-looking LeMons cars I've seen yet.
 
I agree with buying rear calipers over rehab. Probably last time I rebuild!

any examples of functional rear scoops for brake cooling?

I’m sure there’s some good examples of diff cooling on this site I can learn from. I’m always hyper aware of extra leak points - seems to cause an inordinate number of failures in crap can endurance racing. Part of me wants to say I’ve made 2x24 with current setup so finned cover will only be better but from what I understand tru trac runs hotter so maybe I am worse off? I’ve thought about a passive solution - scoop under diff that pulls more air up to diff.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,420
8,346
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
Dang we are neighbors and I don't believe we have met. Great writeup and hopefully we will meet up in the future --- there are quite a few TMO members in the Omaha/Lincoln Metro area!
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
I agree with buying rear calipers over rehab. Probably last time I rebuild!

any examples of functional rear scoops for brake cooling?

I’m sure there’s some good examples of diff cooling on this site I can learn from. I’m always hyper aware of extra leak points - seems to cause an inordinate number of failures in crap can endurance racing. Part of me wants to say I’ve made 2x24 with current setup so finned cover will only be better but from what I understand tru trac runs hotter so maybe I am worse off? I’ve thought about a passive solution - scoop under diff that pulls more air up to diff.

I don't have any direct examples for rear brake deflectors, but you might find some in @Fair 's posts on S550 content that you could get some inspiration from. He definitely has some info on front brake deflector systems that were developed with info from one of our TMO members so you might be able to get some ideas there and port them to your rear SRA.

But, you are already sort of thinking that direction with respect to your diff cooler scoop idea. Same type of principle.

FWIW, many Grand-Am teams run powered-pump cooler (active) systems for the diff. Those are cars that run 2-4 hour races at full tilt. You will be running more time with the usual LeMons stuff--so you need to do *something*. Agree that an active system adds more potential failure points and complexity.
 
@Bill Pemberton looking fwd to it!

tonight finished adding arp studs to the front, rebuilding front calipers, pads, and rotors. Just need to bleed the brakes, slap wheels on it and I can drive it again!
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used the slightly larger knurl studs so had to drill the hubs out. First bit I was arrogant with and ruined it in 3 holes. Second bit I took my time, dipping it in water and then oil often and it made it through the last 7 holes fine.
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Old carbotech rp2s don’t look too bad for doing 2x24 hour races. Melted caliper seals and groved rotors both times but pads came out fine!

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giving raybesto st47 a try. Partially just to experiment and partially hoping they are a little nicer to rotors.
 

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