315 R6s on all four corners

[stunya]

I have looked at the Cortex wheels, both the Jongbloed and the Enkei +47. Both are 10.5" wide and require a decent sized spacer in front for a stock type strut that would require longer studs. Having the wheels poke out in back a bit is not that big a deal to me for a track set-up that would justify the extra cost of those wheels compared to the +38 Enkei's (about $450 if you shop around). The Forgestar's are $100 to $120 more per wheel when the Enkei's are on sale. I guess the decision would be that for an HPDE car with some non-competitive time trial use, is the utility of wheel rotation of greater benefit than the extra wheel width. It seems that several mustang owners who already have Enkei 10.5" wide rear wheels have opted for the wider Forgestar wheels rather than get some 10.5" wide Enkei's for the front for a square wheel set-up.

good analysis here and we are in identical situations, i am struggling with the exact same. i was pretty close to pulling the trigger on the enkei 18x10.5 +38s all the way around, but got nervous about the recent failures. I am still searching for other options, like you.

keep us posted with what you decide! I jumped on 2 of those 305 NT01s last night, just trying to decide if i want 305s or 275s for the front (obviously the rims factor into that as well)! Thank you for posting the link.

 

[Mad Hatter]

For what its worth, I run my 305 Nittos on SVE 18x10 wheels with 35mm offset. They wore very evenly, was worried that the edges would go quickly from the narrow rim but was not a problem. Before with the P springs, had to use a 1/8in spacer. Now with the cortex setup no need and nice to have a square set up for rotation etc.

 

[LTNYC]

running 305s square on 18x11s 8) have yet to test n tune... next month... have the front ARB on the middle setting right now, stock rear bar... -2.5 up front... excited to break in new suspension! I have no idea how to tune the JRi dampers but will have to figure it out too which settings work best

 

[Wingrider]

running 305s square on 18x11s 8) have yet to test n tune... next month... have the front ARB on the middle setting right now, stock rear bar... -2.5 up front... excited to break in new suspension! I have no idea how to tune the JRi dampers but will have to figure it out too which settings work best

What rims are you running to go 11 on all 4 corners? Are they the same wheel, or F/R with different offsets?

 

[LTNYC]

What rims are you running to go 11 on all 4 corners? Are they the same wheel, or F/R with different offsets?

I use CCW corsairs, hub extenders up front... Was considering different offset team dynamics on 295s, but wanted the ability to rotate. I'm not a huge spacer fan

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Flyboygsxr]

So after all the feedback and the test fit of the 315 on an 18 x 11 up front I have settled on the following. I ordered two sets of Forgestar F14 18 x 11 with the separate offsets for front and rear from Vorshlag. The stock of 12" material is out to midsummer so since I'll only be running these this year I went ahead with 18 x 11s all around. I am going to run R7s in 295/30 on the front and 315/30 on the rear. You can't rotate these wheels due to the different offsets for front and rear. I'm hoping the car will still be neutral with the staggered tire sizes front to back, but it could end up being a little tail happy. If so, I have an adjustable front FRPP sway bar, but I hate to give up grip by going to the stiffer setting (currently in the middle of 3 positions). The most logical step might be to try a smaller rear bar. The problem is I'm trying to get by for one more year since I'm switching to the GT350 next year and don't want to invest too much more in the Boss, otherwise I'd go with an all new suspension setup like Rick did.

Since you will be switching to the GT350 keep those Forgestar's nice for me and I'll buy them from you when you're done

 

[cloud9]

Since you will be switching keep those Forgestar's nice for me and I'll buy them from you when you're done with them

Might have to arm wrestle JScheier for them They will be a good buy with only one season on them.

 

[cp85gt]

LTNYC, I think everyone here would really like to see you're front hub extender set-up. I did a quick search and it shows that hub extenders mount to the dust cap area. Is this how your set-up works?

 

[LTNYC]

LTNYC, I think everyone here would really like to see you're front hub extender set-up. I did a quick search and it shows that hub extenders mount to the dust cap area. Is this how your set-up works?

Once I've got the wheel off!

 

[JScheier]

Might have to arm wrestle JScheier for them They will be a good buy with only one season on them, couple dozen curb hopping events and even some alfalfa farming....

 

[cloud9]

Alfalfa farming's as smooth as driving on your living room carpet.

 

[cp85gt]

Neema's idea of a +50 ET 11" wheel to use in conjunction with the Cortex offset struts gave me my latest idea. An ET44 11" wheel has about a 7.7" backspace. This will stick the 11" rear wheel out another .4" as compared to the ET55 wheel. That seems to be around the same amount of poke that the Enkei +38 ET wheels have, but with the extra inboard 1/2" of wheel width. In the front a 15mm H&R hubcentric wheel spacer could be used, like the one Blowfish Racing sells, to give an effective wheel backspace of 7.1" which should clear the strut. If my math is right that would be a feasible 11" rotatable wheel combo with a track usable front spacer and acceptable amount of rear poke. I think the rear tire should tuck in even better because its pulled inward a bit from the extra wheel width. Thoughts, opinions?

 

[Grant 302]

^ I think all your math checks out.

 

[DocB]

I am also presently working on an 11" wheel with a 305 or 315 combo for my car.
Four square, rotatable, and no spacers. I don't like spacers. And the tires stay inboard of the fender lip.

The only problem with the above mentioned combos that you fellas have mentioned is the tire pokes too far outboard.
This tends to cause tire/fender rub on a lowerer car, or if this is can avoided, it goes against class rules in many clubs.

I am looking forward to what you all come up with.

 

[neema]

Neema's idea of a +50 ET 11" wheel to use in conjunction with the Cortex offset struts gave me my latest idea. An ET44 11" wheel has about a 7.7" backspace. This will stick the 11" rear wheel out another .4" as compared to the ET55 wheel. That seems to be around the same amount of poke that the Enkei +38 ET wheels have, but with the extra inboard 1/2" of wheel width. In the front a 15mm H&R hubcentric wheel spacer could be used, like the one Blowfish Racing sells, to give an effective wheel backspace of 7.1" which should clear the strut. If my math is right that would be a feasible 11" rotatable wheel combo with a track usable front spacer and acceptable amount of rear poke. I think the rear tire should tuck in even better because its pulled inward a bit from the extra wheel width. Thoughts, opinions?

This should work. Some aren't comfortable running spacers that large, but if you are, then that'll be a good solution. You may still need a baby fender pull in the rear depending on your ride height.

I am also presently working on an 11" wheel with a 305 or 315 combo for my car.
Four square, rotatable, and no spacers. I don't like spacers. And the tires stay inboard of the fender lip.

The only problem with the above mentioned combos that you fellas have mentioned is the tire pokes too far outboard.
This tends to cause tire/fender rub on a lowerer car, or if this is can avoided, it goes against class rules in many clubs.

I am looking forward to what you all come up with.

You won't be able to mount square, rotatable 11" wheels "under" the fenders unless you narrow the axle, use an offset strut, use spacers up front, or flare the front fenders.

 

[DGRacing]

This should work. Some aren't comfortable running spacers that large, but if you are, then that'll be a good solution. You may still need a baby fender pull in the rear depending on your ride height.


You won't be able to mount square, rotatable 11" wheels "under" the fenders unless you narrow the axle, use an offset strut, use spacers up front, or flare the front fenders.

That's right. The offsets for front and rear are different with a wheel that large. Plus, if you run spacers up front then you're no longer "square" by my definition as the wheel spans front and rear are now different.

 

[cp85gt]

A 15 mm spacer is about .6". What are the reasons for not using a spacer this large? I've used 1/4" spacers before to negate some tire rub but never anything this large to overcome such a large backspace difference. Has anyone with a 10.5" Enkei in the rear have clearance issues? I've seen several pictures of cars loaded in turns with the top of the tire "tucked" into the fender, most recently by Arizona Boss with the 315 Hoosiers mounted, although he did have his fenders rolled. While I don't think of my car as slammed, it is lowered on AST coilovers with a rear ride height lower than those of you that installed the "P" springs.

 

[DGRacing]

A 15 mm spacer is about .6". What are the reasons for not using a spacer this large? I've used 1/4" spacers before to negate some tire rub but never anything this large to overcome such a large backspace difference. Has anyone with a 10.5" Enkei in the rear have clearance issues? I've seen several pictures of cars loaded in turns with the top of the tire "tucked" into the fender, most recently by Arizona Boss with the 315 Hoosiers mounted, although he did have his fenders rolled. While I don't think of my car as slammed, it is lowered on AST coilovers with a rear ride height lower than those of you that installed the "P" springs.

There are a lot of reasons not to use a large spacer, but it has to be considered in the entire setup. The larger the spacer the more strain on the bearings. I actually used a spacer in the rear for a bit and ruined my wheel bearings. I currently run a .5" spacer up front but that's primarily to bring my wheel spans front and rear to square (10.5" up front +.5", 11" in rear). Without it, the front pushes a bit more.

 

[cp85gt]

It's interesting that a wheel spacer would put more strain on the bearings. Is it just the distance the outside of the rim is from the hub face plus the width of the wheel? A +29 11" wide wheel will occupy the same space as a +44 11" wide wheel with a 15mm spacer so the leverage on the hub should be the same.

 

[DGRacing]

It's interesting that a wheel spacer would put more strain on the bearings. Is it just the distance the outside of the rim is from the hub face plus the width of the wheel? A +29 11" wide wheel will occupy the same space as a +44 11" wide wheel with a 15mm spacer so the leverage on the hub should be the same.

There's a lot more to it then just the spacer (weight, speed, power, etc.), but rotational torque required to rotate a mass farther away from its "epicenter" so to speak, is going to be greater to maintain the same velocity. I'm no physics guy though, but this is what was explained to me. Unfortunately, there are no upgraded bearings on the market for these cars other than what FRPP provides.