5W-20 or 5W-30

[PatrickStapler]

Thanks for the input Bill. This car will likely never see the track. However, I’m just not a fan of NOT changing fluids on a regular basis. When I see verbiage such as lifetime fluid or lifetime filter, that raises red flags for me. Hence my line of questioning.

 

[JDee]

I dunno. I find the fluid makes a huge difference. I used to get diff overheats on hot days, but since switching to RedLine diff lube I have not got a single overheat warning. That stuff came out clean when I last changed it. I don't have a diff cooler.

Same for the trans, Ford has changed their recommended fluid for the MT82 a few times, but last I looked it's been their DCT fluid that they want in it. So I went with a better quality DCT fluid from Motul, which meets the Ford spec and probably exceeds it, given the quality of their lubes. A cooler made a huge difference in shifting and hopefully trans life. Probably the cooler is the most important thing, even the best lube possible is going to struggle if it's running too hot.

 

[302BOB]

You take care of your car and your car will take care of you.................I wish marriage was that simple.................................

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

I spent the last 17 years of my career selling lubricants and fuel. I attended many training seminars on lubricants and all lubricant manufacturers will tout the robustness, and thus the service life, of their products. However, they ALL stressed the oxidation life of their products and the need to drain and refill. This included everything. Crankcases, gearboxes, hydraulic systems, and even greases. Without going into minutiae, all lubricants degrade over time. This is affected by time itself (even if it is sitting on a shelf in the original packaging), temperature, humidity, contamination level (even new product, as each and every time that it is transferred from on container to the next it picks up contamination) and even light exposure. I am sure that there are other things that can be added here but these are the major ones.

The environment inside a crankcase or gearbox (trans or diff) is a very violent and stressful one. Take an automatic transmission. Driven daily on a 40-mile commute with 30 of those miles at a 70MPH cruise is a very low stress use of the trans. The fluid life can be expected to be quite long. If you are driving the commute of 100 miles each way even better. The only thing that increased was the time at temperature. A 3-mile commute is actually much more severe. The fluid and trans does not reach operation temperature and water build up from humidity (which can create acids) is higher. The transmission that is used on a racetrack is operating at higher temperature and load causing more rapid shear and oxidation of the fluid and thus the fluid is not protecting the internals as well as it should. I even had one formulating chemist tell us that the dirty little secret about transmission fluids is that the additive packages in them is used up in about 3-5k! Now, without actually seeing the lube analysis for this statement, I took it with a grain of salt.

So... with all of that said my recommendation is to follow AT LEAST the manufacturers recommendation. Temperature and contamination are not your friends. If the car is used under severe conditions increase your drain interval. Oxidized (by heat) fluid does not protect as it should. Chances are that whatever the fluid is protecting is much more expensive (and critical to operation) than the fluid is. Thus, my rule is "Lubricant is cheap, the things that they protect are most often not, therefore change the lubricant as often that you determine is best for you and your budget."

Me? I change engine oil at 5k unless the oil monitor tells me sooner. Diff and trans get changed about every 20K. That long life coolant? Unless it is being tested by the test kit designed for it, every five years. Brake fluid? If not used on track, every 2 years. I keep my vehicles until the junk man won't give me $50 for them and so far, I have not had an engine, trans, or diff give out on me. Been driving for 51 years and, like most all of us, drove it like I stole it when I was younger and had less to lose.

Anyway, just my $0.02. And note that I did not mention any brands or specific products. That is an entirely different conversation.

 

[302BOB]

Anyway, just my $0.02. And note that I did not mention any brands or specific products. That is an entirely different conversation.

Paul, Point well taken.................I admire your commitment to our cause..............enjoying the ride...................Amen!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[mr2raw]

How do I know if an oil I am looking at meets Ford specifications or exceeds it?

For instance, for my 2017 5.0, the owner manual specifies 5W20 with specification, WSS-M2C945-A. I want to run something like Amsoil Signature 5w30 for my car which is primarily a weekend car which sees some track days. Under Amsoil signature 5w30, it says it meets Ford WSS-M2C946-B1, WSS-M2C946-A, WSS-M2C929-A, WSS-M2C961-A1.
The Redline 5w30 says it meets : Ford WSS-M2C946-A

The specification under Amsoil and Redline 5w30 is different than that of my owners manual. How do I know if it meet or exceeds Ford Spec?

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

The most important spec to meet is the API Spec that is required by the manufacturer. Every container of oil should have an API spec on it. The blender has to pay to get it. Be very leery of anything that does not have it. There are some unscrupulous blenders out there making some very low-quality stuff. Stay with major or very well known (what we commonly referred to as boutique) blenders. Make sure that it has the API Spec label on the label. Look it up in your owners manual. I have a '17 Gt and I believe that the API Spec is SN.

 

[302BOB]

Look it up in your owners manual.

Your Owners manual is your Bible while you are under Warranty!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!...After that do what you want.....I stay with the Bible in more ways than one......to this day..............

 

[mr2raw]

The most important spec to meet is the API Spec that is required by the manufacturer. Every container of oil should have an API spec on it. The blender has to pay to get it. Be very leery of anything that does not have it. There are some unscrupulous blenders out there making some very low-quality stuff. Stay with major or very well known (what we commonly referred to as boutique) blenders. Make sure that it has the API Spec label on the label. Look it up in your owners manual. I have a '17 Gt and I believe that the API Spec is SN.

Thanks for the explanation Paul.