The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

S550 A Pale Horse Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

1,040
1,088
Monaca Pa
All the Gory Details
Well the original engine is fully apart. I've been tearing it apart while I wait for the sensors, gaskets, and other various parts to complete the new engine. These Ford parts stores are taking forever to ship things and I've had two orders cancelled so far, one with no notice whatsoever.

Without further ado, here's the carnage. Let's start with the block:

View attachment 81932

This seems to be the result of what I assume was a rod bearing failure on rod #2. Speaking of that rod, here's what that looks like:

View attachment 81934
View attachment 81937

It also affected rod and rod bearing 6 across from it. It definitely experienced an extreme level of heat. On the bright side, it looks awesome. Definitely a trophy to keep.

View attachment 81939View attachment 81933

Cylinder walls #2 and #6 are very damaged. #6 has some damage in it that is about 2mm deep. #2 has an emergency exit.

View attachment 81935View attachment 81936

What of the crank you ask? Behold, the world's heaviest lamp post:

View attachment 81938

I went into this knowing the engine was most likely toast. Disassembling it was just a learning opportunity. I've never cracked into an engine before or pulled one out of a car. The Ford manuals make it alarmingly simple. For those that don't know, you can pay $20 at the Motorcraft site (https://www.motorcraftservice.com/) to get access to all of Ford's service manuals with step-by-step instructions. It takes all the guess work out of it which is nice. I paid for 72 hour access and just downloaded everything I needed.

As parts eventually come in, I'll detail the finishing of the new engine as well. It came complete sans sensors, covers, gaskets, etc. All the basic finishing items. I figured it would be safest to start with fresh sensors in several cases since there were rod bearing, rod, piston, and lifter parts bouncing all around inside. Simply peace of mind. Enjoy the carnage everyone! Hopefully you only ever have to see this damage on the internet from some idiot that has a negative net worth.
I have felt your pain lol
 
223
420
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Southern California
Something I've done for the last few years is scour the build threads on this site. I've been through many of them 5+ times to learn and prepare for the day I'd inevitably need that knowledge. Unfortunately that day came sooner than I expected, but I'm going to play the hand I was dealt. One of the things I remember reading was the procedure to take when your engine lets go like the 4th of July. This may seem obvious for many of those with many more years of experience doing this, but I'm replacing the radiator and oil cooler since there's a possibility metal could have been circulated into them. I originally thought about just having them professionally flushed, but I'd never feel like I was 100% safe.

The oil cooler is a new OEM unit but I pulled the trigger on the 3-pass race unit from Fluidyne. I wasn't having any major temp issues with the car in its current form, but since I should be running much faster with so much less weight I figured it made sense to do it now. I'll probably end up doing Nomex over the front to protect the fins as well. Now I just have to figure out how the hell I accurately measure radiator boxing. That will be a problem for another day. Pretty unit though!
1673371071570.png1673371079857.png
 
539
687
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
SoCal
Something I've done for the last few years is scour the build threads on this site. I've been through many of them 5+ times to learn and prepare for the day I'd inevitably need that knowledge. Unfortunately that day came sooner than I expected, but I'm going to play the hand I was dealt. One of the things I remember reading was the procedure to take when your engine lets go like the 4th of July. This may seem obvious for many of those with many more years of experience doing this, but I'm replacing the radiator and oil cooler since there's a possibility metal could have been circulated into them. I originally thought about just having them professionally flushed, but I'd never feel like I was 100% safe.

The oil cooler is a new OEM unit but I pulled the trigger on the 3-pass race unit from Fluidyne. I wasn't having any major temp issues with the car in its current form, but since I should be running much faster with so much less weight I figured it made sense to do it now. I'll probably end up doing Nomex over the front to protect the fins as well. Now I just have to figure out how the hell I accurately measure radiator boxing. That will be a problem for another day. Pretty unit though!
I've seen numerous stories from folks saying Fluidyne is no longer what they once were. Several people reporting cracks, leaks, and terrible customer service. I hope you don't experience this but just wanted to give fair warning.
 
223
420
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Southern California
I've seen numerous stories from folks saying Fluidyne is no longer what they once were. Several people reporting cracks, leaks, and terrible customer service. I hope you don't experience this but just wanted to give fair warning.
Damn that's quite unfortunate. I'm hoping I don't deal with that, especially given the price point. Were they cracked from the start or did it happen after use? I'm hoping it is the former so I can at least yell into the void via e-mail if it happens. Let's be honest, with my luck lately it probably will 😁
 
539
687
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
SoCal
Damn that's quite unfortunate. I'm hoping I don't deal with that, especially given the price point. Were they cracked from the start or did it happen after use? I'm hoping it is the former so I can at least yell into the void via e-mail if it happens. Let's be honest, with my luck lately it probably will 😁
I think it was a mix of both, unfortunately.

FWIW, I plan to go CSF for the radiator. Best price around and seems to be good enough for all the Global Time Attack peoples.
Amir from RSFuture uses CSF on a lot of their cars.


Supposedly the C&R is the best (and what's on the GT4 mustang) but I also don't want to spend $1100 on a radiator.
1673389948467.png
 
223
420
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Southern California
I think it was a mix of both, unfortunately.

FWIW, I plan to go CSF for the radiator. Best price around and seems to be good enough for all the Global Time Attack peoples.
Amir from RSFuture uses CSF on a lot of their cars.


Supposedly the C&R is the best (and what's on the GT4 mustang) but I also don't want to spend $1100 on a radiator.
View attachment 82612
I would never use a CSF radiator on my car but I'm citing personal reasons. I do know they have a great product.
 

PaddyPrix

If breakin' parts is cool, consider me Miles Davis
725
1,081
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
San Diego
I'm not a huge fan of American Muscle, but for the trackish items that they also carry, keep an eye out on their open-box specials, I got an open box Mishi for about half off, and got my GT-250 wing for 70% off. I know others do a better job, but we're talking a few degrees for a several hundred bucks. The fact that you have a non-stock one and start to box it in should do you just fine.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/mishimoto-mustang-engine-oil-cooler-mmoc-10rd.html
1673474219012.png


for others (definitely not Eric) -- https://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-open-box.html
 
Last edited:
539
687
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
SoCal
I'm not a huge fan of American Muscle, but for the trackish items that they also carry, keep an eye out on their open-box specials, I got an open box Mishi for about half off, and got my GT-250 wing for 70% off. I know others do a better job, but we're talking a few degrees for a several hundred bucks. The fact that you have a non-stock one and start to box it in should do you just fine.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/mishimoto-mustang-engine-oil-cooler-mmoc-10rd.html
View attachment 82621
Patrick, is there a section on their site that lists all open-box items? Link?

I'm extremely jealous of your 70% off wing. Granted, I don't need a wing right now but goddammit I want one!

EDIT - I found the section. Should've Googled first. 🤦‍♂️
 
Last edited:
223
420
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Southern California
By complete surprise, NASA SoCal awarded me with this at the awards banquet this past weekend. I just show up, try to be a decent person, and learn what I can. I've also begun signing up as an instructor for the new drivers so I'm hoping that can expand my knowledge of the tracks by sitting in a different seat. I'm trying to fill my time without a car with as many track-related activities as possible.
20230116_093326.jpg

Speaking of being without a car, I'll share a minor annoyance I experienced trying to order parts. All the ford parts sites list both the engine oil cooler and the transmission cooler as "Oil cooler." Me being the absolute idiot I am saw oil cooler and just assumed it was correct. If you're looking for an oil cooler it is part #FR3Z-6A642-B, NOT FR3Z-7A095-E.

In other news, still no word from ARH on the headers. In true auto industry fashion they won't respond to my e-mails with an ETA. That's the experience I've had with 80% of the parts I order so I'm not even remotely surprised. Customer service ranks dead last for most of these companies it seems.
 
223
420
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Southern California
Apparently an oil cooler with no electrical plugs or wires is considered an electrical component, at least by Ford Parts Giant. They're trying to deny my RMA request as a result. Customer service strikes again it seems.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,529
5,245
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
I don’t know if we can blame any one link in the supply chain. The supply world is broken and working off non-logic. One of our suppliers offered to source us metal wire hooks in place of molded plastic. We took his offer and asked why. His reason was that he could sell the black plastic resin raw and make more money than by molding our pieces. Todays reality is divorced from traditional logic.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Top