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ABS

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536
B
Building my car and ripped out all the wiring. Not using any factory wiring. Using ford racing control pack for the engine. Now I want to put the ABS in. I don't see the brake switch in the ABS wiring diagram to the ABS. I could use some help on this with info.. I have the race car wiring diagrams too and they have the BOO [Brake off/on] not in loom or connected it seems. Is it working off the RCM and just not used?
 

Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
984
1,277
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Connecticut


From these, it looks like the ABS module is getting the brake switch status over the CAN bus / Module Communications Network. The question is what module is responsible for converting the mechanical brake switch status into CAN data to broadcast on the network, and it seems from the diagrams it could be the PCM, Body Control Module, or Smart Junction Box. Note that the ABS module has a dedicated CAN loop to the Restraint Control Module, so it may need that as well to function properly.

I think your best bet is to call Ford Performance and ask them. They may know how to do this, or they may tell you that you need a dedicated racing ABS unit (e.g., Bosch M5 Clubsport - get ready for sticker shock).
 
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Thanks Dave. I looked into the Bosch and yeah...$$$$$$. For the RCM to the ABS, that's kind of the way I see it also, I will wire it up the way the ABS wiring diagram shows and test it out..
 
598
536
Disclaimer: This info is only for Race cars with standalone ECU setup. Ford's or otherwise.
ABS is installed and working. It turned out to be a lot easier than I expected. First it does work as a standalone system as long as you have a CAN bus. I do have it tied into the CAN bus from the ECU/OBD2. The Restraint Control Module also has it's own CAN bus that talks to the ABS unit. No brake switch to the ECU is used on the 2011-2014 systems. You can upgrade if you have the older systems. All you have to have is the 2011-2014 ABS pump/unit, RCM, ABS plug or harness. Junk yard for the harness and wires. I de-loomed the whole ABS harness and wheel sensors from my car and used them. That was the only factory wiring I used. The PDF's color codes are different on some of the wires than the Fords wiring diagrams just FYI.
The Four wheel speed sensors, a 40amp HAAT power lead, a 30amp HAAT power lead. a 5amp On/Reset switched power lead. Can bus +/- leads, RMC Can bus +/- leads to the ABS unit and two grounds. The RNC only needs ONE 10amp Power lead and the RCM CAN bus and the OBD2 CAN bus to work. All the other wires to the RCM can be removed. Between using the Ford Wiring Diagram and the Boss302R/S PDF's for the ABS harnesses it turned out to be real easy. Just time consuming because of all the splicing to route the wires the way I wanted them, but once its in, it worked.

20210816_070714.jpg

20210816_070820.jpg
 
Question on this: can you still do an ABS service bleed via Forscan/ids with ABS set up like this? I’d think so since it seems to be fully operational but just double checking.
 
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Question on this: can you still do an ABS service bleed via Forscan/ids with ABS set up like this? I’d think so since it seems to be fully operational but just double checking.
Not tied into the Stock can bus it seems. You have to make it as a stand alone with it's own obd2 port. when I flash the ECU I have to unplug the RCM and the ABS for it to work.. I don't use service bleed really, never have.. I bleed the system, then go lock up the abs and re-bleed. Always seems to work.
 

Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
984
1,277
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Connecticut
when I flash the ECU I have to unplug the RCM and the ABS for it to work
Just a wild guess, but since you've done a lot of work on the harness, I wonder if this is due to an issue with having incorrect CAN bus termination resisitor(s). Or possibly the connector your'e using when flashing the ECU has a setting to enable/disable an internal CAN termination resisitor.

 
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536
I have the resisters, just haven't put it in yet. I didn't want to undo the harness I just wrapped all up just yet.. It is on the list to do.
 
218
369
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
Disclaimer: This info is only for Race cars with standalone ECU setup. Ford's or otherwise.
ABS is installed and working. It turned out to be a lot easier than I expected. First it does work as a standalone system as long as you have a CAN bus. I do have it tied into the CAN bus from the ECU/OBD2. The Restraint Control Module also has it's own CAN bus that talks to the ABS unit. No brake switch to the ECU is used on the 2011-2014 systems. You can upgrade if you have the older systems. All you have to have is the 2011-2014 ABS pump/unit, RCM, ABS plug or harness. Junk yard for the harness and wires. I de-loomed the whole ABS harness and wheel sensors from my car and used them. That was the only factory wiring I used. The PDF's color codes are different on some of the wires than the Fords wiring diagrams just FYI.
The Four wheel speed sensors, a 40amp HAAT power lead, a 30amp HAAT power lead. a 5amp On/Reset switched power lead. Can bus +/- leads, RMC Can bus +/- leads to the ABS unit and two grounds. The RNC only needs ONE 10amp Power lead and the RCM CAN bus and the OBD2 CAN bus to work. All the other wires to the RCM can be removed. Between using the Ford Wiring Diagram and the Boss302R/S PDF's for the ABS harnesses it turned out to be real easy. Just time consuming because of all the splicing to route the wires the way I wanted them, but once its in, it worked.

View attachment 67462

View attachment 67463

This is awesome, thanks for sharing this! It actually looks a lot simpler than I thought.

I am currently running:
  • The control pack and the Gen3 PCM to run a Gen3 Engine in my S197.
  • Stock gen1 body harness to use lights, doors, etc. Including fuse box but without the PCM.
  • RaceCapture data system that tabs into and reads the can bus and OBD2.
It is a lot of wires right now but I am looking to maintain proper functionality first before cutting into things. I am looking to trim and simplify things once everything is in working order.

My question:
Would it be enough to leave the the stock (gen1) wiring harness intact and simply swap in the Can ports from the control pack (gen3)?

This would assure intact wheel speed sensor wires, grounds and fuses without cutting into the harness more then necessary. By any chance, do you know what kind of Can info the ABS is looking for?
Optionally I could still run the gen1 ECU as a backup for such systems. Not sure though how much it does without the engine harness hooked up.
 
225
177
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Colorado Springs
So I have a question for you posting here but any others who are lurking. I had a couple discussions when the ABS went out on my car and a number of folks say that they just run on the track without ABS in general. @Fabman ? @Bill Pemberton ? (I know there are others).

But with all the work here to put it back in..... 1) is it better than stock ABS? (if yes, how so?) 2) Whats general consensus on ABS vs not? 3) tune it out with proportioning valves? I ran 1 AutoX event and not having ABS with my brake upgrades really made it twitchy and lock up fast. It took a lot of time to start getting the feel and I never got there. Since my car is dual purpose, I did get the ABS fixed, but curious about the discussion. Because I was still learning the feel, I know I wasn't toeing the line, I went straight over into locked up brakes a number of times. And got a couple flat spots.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,518
8,154
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
So I have a question for you posting here but any others who are lurking. I had a couple discussions when the ABS went out on my car and a number of folks say that they just run on the track without ABS in general. @Fabman ? @Bill Pemberton ? (I know there are others).

But with all the work here to put it back in..... 1) is it better than stock ABS? (if yes, how so?) 2) Whats general consensus on ABS vs not? 3) tune it out with proportioning valves? I ran 1 AutoX event and not having ABS with my brake upgrades really made it twitchy and lock up fast. It took a lot of time to start getting the feel and I never got there. Since my car is dual purpose, I did get the ABS fixed, but curious about the discussion. Because I was still learning the feel, I know I wasn't toeing the line, I went straight over into locked up brakes a number of times. And got a couple flat spots.
I was forced into non-abs when my coyote swap engine harness wouldn't talk to my 3v abs system.
Despite a few folks around the web mentioning that it could be done, at the time I was unable to secure actionable intel on exactly how to do it, and upon further probing most of those folks never really had it working correctly anyway. It seemed the only real solutions were either complicated, insanely expensive or both, so at this point I am simply making do.
As soon as I have a verifiable comprehensive instruction manual and a low cost parts list I am all over it. Or I should say, @Albino500 will be on it. :)

Seems like a great product if someone wanted to put it together.
 
Another question for the ABS discussion for us 05-09 guys. Is there value in swapping to an 11-14 ABS module? The lines are probably in the same configuration, and you’d probably need to compare the pin out of the 05-09 connector and the 11-14 connector and repin as needed but I imagine it’s feasible.

I guess the question is, is the 11-14 programming an improvement over the earlier unit? Maybe the GT500 version is an improvement? Wondering if anyone has gone through the effort and implemented this
 
3
0
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Kansas City
Disclaimer: This info is only for Race cars with standalone ECU setup. Ford's or otherwise.
ABS is installed and working. It turned out to be a lot easier than I expected. First it does work as a standalone system as long as you have a CAN bus. I do have it tied into the CAN bus from the ECU/OBD2. The Restraint Control Module also has it's own CAN bus that talks to the ABS unit. No brake switch to the ECU is used on the 2011-2014 systems. You can upgrade if you have the older systems. All you have to have is the 2011-2014 ABS pump/unit, RCM, ABS plug or harness. Junk yard for the harness and wires. I de-loomed the whole ABS harness and wheel sensors from my car and used them. That was the only factory wiring I used. The PDF's color codes are different on some of the wires than the Fords wiring diagrams just FYI.
The Four wheel speed sensors, a 40amp HAAT power lead, a 30amp HAAT power lead. a 5amp On/Reset switched power lead. Can bus +/- leads, RMC Can bus +/- leads to the ABS unit and two grounds. The RNC only needs ONE 10amp Power lead and the RCM CAN bus and the OBD2 CAN bus to work. All the other wires to the RCM can be removed. Between using the Ford Wiring Diagram and the Boss302R/S PDF's for the ABS harnesses it turned out to be real easy. Just time consuming because of all the splicing to route the wires the way I wanted them, but once its in, it worked.

View attachment 67462

View attachment 67463
Is there any way we could get you to draw up a diagram for this? I'm not super wire savvy so having a diagram would really help me!
 

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