The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

S550 AJ Hartman Aero's GT350 Build Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Quick video making some air curtain blockers. We tested something very similar in the wind tunnel to get data on it and while its a small improvement in downforce and a small gain in cooling, they are both a step in the right direction.

Not to send you down a seriously long rabbit hole, but do you think the revopoint would be accurate enough to scan the entire "duct" fo rthe air curtain and produce a 2 piece 3d printed "plug" that could insert from the front and then secure to the back that would keep that duct from being a miniature drag creating pocket and instead keep things more flush with the curvature of that corner of the front bumper?

Just getting into 3D printing and equally curious about the capabilities of the Revopoint as I am the aero effect of doing something like that.
 
189
290
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
75024
For stock style front springs, the Gt500 fronts are 280lb/in (progressive) and Steeda progressives get to 300 lb/in. I'm not sure how to access the bumpstops on the inverted front mag strut the 350s and 500's have.
 

Frank.JD.Perez

FJD Performance
314
490
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Pleasanton/Hayward, CA
man, i wish you were making it out to nationals this weekend at laguna. would love to meet you in person and talk about things. both your mustangs are bad ass
 
Not to send you down a seriously long rabbit hole, but do you think the revopoint would be accurate enough to scan the entire "duct" fo rthe air curtain and produce a 2 piece 3d printed "plug" that could insert from the front and then secure to the back that would keep that duct from being a miniature drag creating pocket and instead keep things more flush with the curvature of that corner of the front bumper?

Just getting into 3D printing and equally curious about the capabilities of the Revopoint as I am the aero effect of doing something like that.
Would it be accurate enough? yes. Practical to do it like you said, probably not. Also, once a duct fills with air, its essentially the same exact things as being sealed. So I guarantee the duct closed from the back vs the front gives the same exact result. But reshaping the front of the duct could change things maybe a tiny bit depending on design.
 
For stock style front springs, the Gt500 fronts are 280lb/in (progressive) and Steeda progressives get to 300 lb/in. I'm not sure how to access the bumpstops on the inverted front mag strut the 350s and 500's have.
Interesting. I've seen the ford performance springs rated at 250 front so if steedas are 300, that may be an option. I'll shoot them an email.
 
466
438
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
MD
Revisiting an old idea, but with new capabilities and made myself some compressible splitter rods.

When you get the chance, can you measure how wide apart your rods are from each other? I like your non drilling method of mounting the rods but looking at it, it may not clear the OEM lower GT grille due to the "fin" or whatever you want to call that diagonal part.
1663425399897.jpeg
 
When you get the chance, can you measure how wide apart your rods are from each other? I like your non drilling method of mounting the rods but looking at it, it may not clear the OEM lower GT grille due to the "fin" or whatever you want to call that diagonal part.
The way they are on the GT350 is they are 30" apart at the top and bottom. But for a different application, by the time you get down to the splitter, since they are on a rod end, they can be anywhere from about 29" wide up to about 34" wide. You can also move the brackets to the outer frame bolts, but would be a longer unsupported middle section so your splitter better be stiff. This puts them at about 40-41" wide at the top and will have the same swing. Another option would be to add a clevis to the S550 bracket, and then you can get just about any swing angle you want. Stuff gets pretty tight with the GT350 having the factory brake ducts and rad ducts and ducts to the oil and trans cooler and lines, so I'm pretty sure a GT would be much easier to get something to work. Some pictures attached of ideas and options. Follow up with me when you measure your car. By the looks of it, the option of adding an additional clevis to get some more inward angle to miss the lower "fin" may be the ticket for GT's.

IMG_6511.JPGIMG_6510.JPGIMG_6514.JPGIMG_6512.JPGIMG_6513.JPG
 
In my never ending pursuit of aero performance, I recently took my car the the Aerodyne wind tunnel. This tunnel is cool cause the wheels can rotate with vehicle speed and has a boundry layer controlled floor as well as the rams the car is mounted to can manipulate the car in different ride heights, rakes, yaws, and rolls. We were able to corelate some CFD data, as well as data from the A2 wind tunnel to compare. Data, data, data!
IMG_6737.JPGIMG_6740.JPG
 
466
438
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
MD
The way they are on the GT350 is they are 30" apart at the top and bottom. But for a different application, by the time you get down to the splitter, since they are on a rod end, they can be anywhere from about 29" wide up to about 34" wide. You can also move the brackets to the outer frame bolts, but would be a longer unsupported middle section so your splitter better be stiff. This puts them at about 40-41" wide at the top and will have the same swing. Another option would be to add a clevis to the S550 bracket, and then you can get just about any swing angle you want. Stuff gets pretty tight with the GT350 having the factory brake ducts and rad ducts and ducts to the oil and trans cooler and lines, so I'm pretty sure a GT would be much easier to get something to work. Some pictures attached of ideas and options. Follow up with me when you measure your car. By the looks of it, the option of adding an additional clevis to get some more inward angle to miss the lower "fin" may be the ticket for GT's.

View attachment 79313View attachment 79314View attachment 79315View attachment 79316View attachment 79317
Sorry for the late reply but thank you so much for this sir. I truly truly appreciate you taking the time to show that.

I've watched your video and I still have a few questions. Part of me is determined to make it work for my GT. So I have the following questions:

Are the only chassis mounting points via the rods?
Did you do away with the factory belly pan?
It looks like the factory lip is bolted tot he splitter as well?

Since you have done all of this R&D for the 350, will you also incorporate those changes like the beveled edge and rear profile to the GT splitter kit you offer?

Sorry for the questions I just admire your work.
 
Are the only chassis mounting points via the rods?
Did you do away with the factory belly pan?
It looks like the factory lip is bolted tot he splitter as well?

Since you have done all of this R&D for the 350, will you also incorporate those changes like the beveled edge and rear profile to the GT splitter kit you offer?

Sorry for the questions I just admire your work.
Yes, rods go to the chassis. Trailing edge bolts to the factory undertray/bellypan. Factory 350 or 350R lip just hangs out there in OEM location and mounting but doesn't attach to my splitter in anyway.

The GT splitter has the rounded leading edge, but no tapered rear profile. If I could get my hands on a GT I could redo it since the GT kits were done about 4 or 5 years ago now but the big issue if I remember right was that there were different undertray/belly pans for the the PP and PP2 or since they were nothing special people would ditch them to make their own so its a more typical splitter. The GT350 and 350R have one undertray with decent tunnels so every splitter I do can be the same. I'd like to mold the GT350 under tray so any S550 can upgrade to the GT350 undertray and run our GT350 splitter. Just make an air dam to fill the gap to the splitter and your all set.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Top