The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

SN95 Chris' 351w Swapped 1995 Build Thread Profile - SN95 Mustangs

99
156
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Michigan
Great thread! That's a monster of a motor! I had a 87' T-Top I put a 351w in in high school. Probably only made 300whp but it felt like a thousand to a 17 year old high school kid, and I still got in plenty of trouble 😆
 
Great thread! That's a monster of a motor! I had a 87' T-Top I put a 351w in in high school. Probably only made 300whp but it felt like a thousand to a 17 year old high school kid, and I still got in plenty of trouble 😆

I used to get pulled over aaaaall the time when I was young. I'm 24, been driving since 16. I've gotten pulled over right about 20 times, only 4 tickets. Usually, I wasn't being dumb or anything, just a young guy cruising along in a loud car with the top down. It was a police magnet. But most times they came up to talk to me and I was nice and respectful, so I just got a warning.

In fact, out of these 4 tickets, only one was in my own car, for 35mph in a 25, by some Barney Fife jerk in Nowhere, Oklahoma. Just because I started speeding up to 35 as the sign was in view ("yOu dOn'T sPeEd uP tO 35 uNtIl AfTeR yOu pAsS tHe sIgN"...they got a profanity-laced memo along with my $150 payment). One of the other three was speeding in Winslow, AZ in a car I had repo'd in Vegas and was driving back to AR. The other pulling a trailer in the early morning heading to New Mexico to haul a car back. 80 in a 75. In Texas. Where everyone goes 80 all the time. I just remembered, I had a fourth for no license plate in a car off my dad's lot...that one was dismissed, though.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
6,633
5,609
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
80 in a 75 is a bit bogus and I would have to feel that was a youngster profiling situation. As I near 7 decades I remember having the same issues you had when I was in my teens and 20s. I got stopped a lot , usually talked my way out of it , but got a few tickets for just a few miles over. Being young with a fast , fun car is a draw for many in Law Enforcement and actually they are often right on the money- ha. Like you noted and I mentioned , we both were stopped alot, emphasis on alot !! Since we talked our way out of many it was always the few we got that frustrated us the most because we viewed them as lightweight speeding citations.

The older I got I began counting all the tickets I got out of and I began to figure the times I got caught were substantially lower than the law of averages.

Talked my way out of the 120mph one because the Officer had a 1989 Z28 and I mentioned I had a 89 Firebird Formula 350 with the different cats ( factory ) and he had the same set-up. Those factory option cats was good for 5 more HP, ha. The 98 in a 60mph had me going to Court , but I had a compelling reason and the Judge let me off with a warning.

Overall, now, I am pretty darn good at keeping the speed quite reasonable except on the track -- definitely the best and safest place to go faaasstt!!
 
Last edited:
80 in a 75 is a bit bogus and I would have to feel that was a youngster profiling situation. As I near 7 decades I remember having the same issues you had when I was in my teens and 20s. I got stopped a lot , usually talked my way out of it , but got a few tickets for just a few miles over. Being young with a fast , fun car is a draw for many in Law Enforcement and actually they are often right on the money- ha. Like you noted and I mentioned , we both were stopped alot, emphasis on alot !! Since we talked our way out of many it was always the few we got that frustrated us the most because we viewed them as lightweight speeding citations.

The older I got I began counting all the tickets I got out of and I began to figure the times I got caught were substantially lower than the law of averages.

Talked my way out of the 120mph one because the Officer had a 1989 Z28 and I mentioned I had a 89 Firebird Formula 350 with the different cats ( factory ) and he had the same set-up. This was good for 5 more HP, ha. The 98 in a 60mph had me going to Court , but I had a compelling reason and the Judge let me off with a warning.

Overall, now, I am pretty darn good at keeping the speed quite reasonable except on the track -- best and safest place to go faaasstt!!

Now that I daily a 2014 Ford Focus, I have only been stopped twice. Once going a little over the speed limit in Oklahoma pretty late at night, the other because I had a non-working headlight.

I usually keep my speed in check. Nowadays, my insurance is based on my driving, so the most I usually go is about 77mph at any time on the street.

One time I REALLY deserved a ticket and didn't get one was the day I got this Mustang. I took the girlfriend for a spin. Getting on the interstate, I nailed the gas, slid the back end out a little, then just merged onto the interstate and went the speed limit. Officer followed me for about 4 miles (I didn't know he was back there) before he pulled me over. I didn't have a license plate on the car, I didn't have my proof of insurance (did have it though), didn't have my wallet/license with me, and did the drift getting on that he apparently saw. The Trooper drove a GT-R and told me to tone it down on the street. I still don't understand where he was, because I didn't see ANYONE around or I wouldn't have done it.
 
Semi-successful weekend working on the Mustang. I had plans to install the Eaton TruTrac I picked up from a fellow AutoCrosser. It's a 28-Spline to replace my stock differential. It would also be a great opportunity to install the rear Cobra brake setup and longer ARP studs that have been sitting on my desk at work.

Well, as usual, my plans didn't go over so well. I got the rear diff cover off and immediately realized that the diff I was looking at wasn't stock. It's an Auburn unit. I still couldn't tell which axles I had installed, though. I got the passenger axle pulled out aaaaand...31-splines. I counted to be sure, but could tell by the size immediately.

I went ahead and installed the Cobra brake setup and the ARP studs. I left the Auburn alone. The gears looked great, like they were just installed yesterday.

So, now I have to decide what to do. At one event earlier this year, I was only spinning one tire. I haven't noticed that issue since that one event. I can either go ahead and buy a new 31 spline TruTrac or just keep the Auburn and hope it keeps doing well. If I buy the new TruTrac, I'll probably put the Auburn in the old truck. It just has an open diff and the Auburn would probably live forever in it since it doesn't get abused like the Mustang.
 
548
543
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
Personally I'd buy some axles stock or otherwise and use the 28 spline Trutrac. There is nothing wrong with 28 spline until you're making 700+ in a drag car and launching hard. I know Chris Robins(guerilla motorsports) is still running 28 spline in his road race car making similiar power to yours.
 
99
156
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Michigan
Personally I'd buy some axles stock or otherwise and use the 28 spline Trutrac. There is nothing wrong with 28 spline until you're making 700+ in a drag car and launching hard. I know Chris Robins(guerilla motorsports) is still running 28 spline in his road race car making similiar power to yo
Semi-successful weekend working on the Mustang. I had plans to install the Eaton TruTrac I picked up from a fellow AutoCrosser. It's a 28-Spline to replace my stock differential. It would also be a great opportunity to install the rear Cobra brake setup and longer ARP studs that have been sitting on my desk at work.

Well, as usual, my plans didn't go over so well. I got the rear diff cover off and immediately realized that the diff I was looking at wasn't stock. It's an Auburn unit. I still couldn't tell which axles I had installed, though. I got the passenger axle pulled out aaaaand...31-splines. I counted to be sure, but could tell by the size immediately.

I went ahead and installed the Cobra brake setup and the ARP studs. I left the Auburn alone. The gears looked great, like they were just installed yesterday.

So, now I have to decide what to do. At one event earlier this year, I was only spinning one tire. I haven't noticed that issue since that one event. I can either go ahead and buy a new 31 spline TruTrac or just keep the Auburn and hope it keeps doing well. If I buy the new TruTrac, I'll probably put the Auburn in the old truck. It just has an open diff and the Auburn would probably live forever in it since it doesn't get abused like the Mustang.
I've been thinking over rear end upgrades as well. I've landed on a Torsen 28 spline for reasons Casey outlined- seems like the 28 spline axles are fine at these power levels and under these conditions.

I had a follow-up question, though- do people break c/clip axles in road racing and autocross? Is it necessary to upgrade to 9" ends like the drag racers do?

Brad
 
Personally I'd buy some axles stock or otherwise and use the 28 spline Trutrac. There is nothing wrong with 28 spline until you're making 700+ in a drag car and launching hard. I know Chris Robins(guerilla motorsports) is still running 28 spline in his road race car making similiar power to yours.

I've been thinking over rear end upgrades as well. I've landed on a Torsen 28 spline for reasons Casey outlined- seems like the 28 spline axles are fine at these power levels and under these conditions.

I had a follow-up question, though- do people break c/clip axles in road racing and autocross? Is it necessary to upgrade to 9" ends like the drag racers do?

Brad

Fair points, and exactly why I bought the TruTrac when this opportunity came up. The guy that sold me this unit was upgrading to 31 spline in his car. His is a road course and AutoX primarily Factory Five Cobra that's about 1000 pounds lighter than my car and makes 20hp less. He doesn't drag race it often, but he was still breaking an axle or two every year. Usually at Holley Ford Fest during the drag racing part.

With a road course and AutoX car that never hits the drag strip, it may be fine forever. One of my issues there is that I would like to try this thing out on the drag strip, but I'm scared to because of the failure points...i.e. my TR-3550 trans rated for 350 ft-lbs, my standard duty torque arm rated at 330 ft-lbs, what I thought were 28 spline axles, etc. I darn near tried it out at the strip this year in spite of those, but the power steering pump decided to lock up and took that choice out of my hands.

I'm also not a big fan of downgrading in general, especially if I have to spend more money to do it. I'd be looking at spending $250 or so on new, stock-like 28 spline axles (I could go cheaper from a junkyard, ofc). Using the 28 spline TruTrac I picked up, I'll have about $500 in the setup. $100 more and using my existing axles, I could have a 31 spline setup that I would feel more comfortable testing out at the strip. So if I can sell the 28 spline TruTrac for what I got it for and put the cash toward a new one, I'll probably go that route. Plus, I just installed my longer ARP studs in the 31 spline axles.

On the C Clip question, people do upgrade to 9" ends, but not near as often from what I've seen. I wouldn't say it's "necessary", but over a certain power level, on wide 'n sticky tires, with good suspension, being driven hard, it probably isn't a bad idea... Some of the main benefits are reduced pad knockback (so more consistent braking), less noise from the brakes, the axle (and wheel!) staying in place if an axle fails under power, etc.
 
99
156
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Michigan
Fair points, and exactly why I bought the TruTrac when this opportunity came up. The guy that sold me this unit was upgrading to 31 spline in his car. His is a road course and AutoX primarily Factory Five Cobra that's about 1000 pounds lighter than my car and makes 20hp less. He doesn't drag race it often, but he was still breaking an axle or two every year. Usually at Holley Ford Fest during the drag racing part.

With a road course and AutoX car that never hits the drag strip, it may be fine forever. One of my issues there is that I would like to try this thing out on the drag strip, but I'm scared to because of the failure points...i.e. my TR-3550 trans rated for 350 ft-lbs, my standard duty torque arm rated at 330 ft-lbs, what I thought were 28 spline axles, etc. I darn near tried it out at the strip this year in spite of those, but the power steering pump decided to lock up and took that choice out of my hands.

I'm also not a big fan of downgrading in general, especially if I have to spend more money to do it. I'd be looking at spending $250 or so on new, stock-like 28 spline axles (I could go cheaper from a junkyard, ofc). Using the 28 spline TruTrac I picked up, I'll have about $500 in the setup. $100 more and using my existing axles, I could have a 31 spline setup that I would feel more comfortable testing out at the strip. So if I can sell the 28 spline TruTrac for what I got it for and put the cash toward a new one, I'll probably go that route. Plus, I just installed my longer ARP studs in the 31 spline axles.

On the C Clip question, people do upgrade to 9" ends, but not near as often from what I've seen. I wouldn't say it's "necessary", but over a certain power level, on wide 'n sticky tires, with good suspension, being driven hard, it probably isn't a bad idea... Some of the main benefits are reduced pad knockback (so more consistent braking), less noise from the brakes, the axle (and wheel!) staying in place if an axle fails under power, etc.
Yea, you're absolutely right. By the time you buy shafts you'll be downgrading for almost the same money. I had not considered what you paid for the diff in the first place. If you want to get rid of it...I may be interested. My trac-loc has already been an issue on higher speed right handers with spinning the inside tire. I need to be able to do donuts left AND right, haha!

Braking is not something I had considered on the 9" conversion. That's also a good point. Thanks for the info!

Brad
 
You might think that, as long as it's been since I updated this thread, I would have a TON of news to report about all the grand things I've done to the car. You would be mistaken.

Work has been nice and crazy for a while and I just haven't felt like working on the car. I keep planning to every weekend but couldn't find the motivation. My cousin moved out of his 5 bay shop in...December? and my car got transported to a friend's house about 45 minutes away. So I wake up on the weekend and just decide to take a nice relaxing day. On top of that, I've been house shopping in my spare time, which is pretty tough in this market. Made several offers before finally getting one accepted today! That should help support my car addiction nicely, as I can finally work on my car at my own house.

Anyway, I actually have some things in progress now. I ordered the Konig Hypergram 18x11 wheels I've been planning to get for a while. I also ordered a set of 315/30/18 Falken RT615K+. They aren't the greatest 200tw out there, which I know, but I'm also not a top driver or anything. They're fast for me and I really liked the 275/35/18 set I had in 2020. They wore great and felt good. They should also fare well at Hallett in June. When I can drive like the big boys, I'll buy tires like the big boys (looking at you and those A052s, @PatientZero :p).

I also got some 8" length 450 lb/in front springs ordered. My 10" 425s won't fit with these new wheels and I could get the 450 lb/in a lot quicker. I'll also likely be switching to 300 lb/in in the rear.

One issue I was dealing with last year was that I had a fairly large 35mm Steeda bar on the front of the car. It had a good amount of understeer. I swapped on a 27mm bar, which helped, but then the rear of the car felt like it was tipping over. I lowered the Watts to help that. I was advised that putting more spring in the rear wasn't the right solution (as my 425 and 275 were well-matched) and that the better method was to up the rear sway bar from 1" factory location to something that would give more wheel rate. I decided to go ahead and pick up the 1" Maximum Motorsports adjustable unit. Hopefully that allows me to switch back to the 35mm bar and not have the tremendously bad understeer I had before. Then I'll adjust the Watts to find a good place for it.

I also need to order some fender flares, but I haven't settled on exactly what I want there, yet.
 
548
543
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
I only have 295's though... I need to buy wheels so I can get grown up size tires too.

Being able to work on your car at your house makes all the difference in the world. My dad has a shop and lift 5 minutes away but it's just not the same as being able to wander out to the garage to tinker and end up knocking something off the list that you've been putting off for 6 months. I can't wait for the day I actually have a shop.
 
I only have 295's though... I need to buy wheels so I can get grown up size tires too.

Being able to work on your car at your house makes all the difference in the world. My dad has a shop and lift 5 minutes away but it's just not the same as being able to wander out to the garage to tinker and end up knocking something off the list that you've been putting off for 6 months. I can't wait for the day I actually have a shop.

Ahhh, I thought you were on 315s. Some of the 295s are as wide as some 315s though lol. How do the A052 run compared to the RT660s, if you know? I know that the 275/35/18 Falken RT615K+ are smaller than the RT660s, etc of the "same" size. So hoping the 315 version fits nice and square on the 11" wheel.

I'm pretty stoked about it. I looked at some with space to build a shop, but the market is just stupid right now. I'm gonna save up the next couple years and then buy a house on some land with room, or maybe just build. Us car guys have some unique things we'd appreciate having, so building might make more sense. It was hard enough finding one that met my requirements now (2-car garage, flat driveway, a place to stash a trailer, somewhat nice, and move-in ready). I didn't really care about the house itself, I wanted something nice, but layout and stuff like that didn't matter to me.

This is the one I got. It has a wider driveway, especially up close to the garage (2 cars). A wiiiide gate to back the trailer down to the backyard. A little workspace below the house. I think it'll do nicely for now.

House1.JPGHouse2.JPGHouse3.JPGHouse4.JPGHouse5.JPGHouse6.JPGHouse7.JPG
 
Congrats man! Looks nice. Could you fit your car in the garage on the back side of the house?

I'm not sure. I think so, but I didn't measure and that wasn't a dealbreaker for me. That door is definitely wide enough, just might not be deep enough. But it looks like I could dig the dirt down a bit and gain some more room going in, which may be what happens. The car probably won't spend much time back there, though, as the only access to the backyard is the side gate where you have to drive through the lawn. I'm not sure the Mustang will handle the hump into the yard at the street nicely (maybe with some boards). And then I'm also worried about getting stuck in the yard (it's a little hill). The truck and trailer should be able to go down and come up fine, though. The Focus and the Mustang can share the upper garage.
 
I finally made it to my first event of the year, the Mid-America Ford and Shelby Nationals at Hallett Motor Racing Circuit. Car (mostly) held up for two days of abuse and felt great doing it, which was a relief, because I didn't do much prep this year and had no chance to test things out.

I got the 18x11 wheels and 315/30/18s fitted on, without fender flares for now. This required installing shorter springs for spring perch clearance (8" 450 lb/in). It also took some cutting at the back of the bumper (in front of the tire), which looks a little hacky, but you do what it takes to make a race with a racecar right? The car is set up stiff enough that after raising the front spring perches 1/2" (measured at the collar/perch, not at the body of the car), it fit fine and didn't rub on track. I had an alignment done right before as well (8.2* caster, -2.5* of camber, and 0* toe). I knew a little toe out might help turn in, but I wanted better tire wear, so the compromise was worth it in the long run. The raising of the front didn't seem to hurt anything, but I have no hard data to support that. The control arm was still fairly level, and this actually might be where it should be.

I went ahead and replaced the rotors in the front. The Raybestos ST47 pads I put in two years ago are holding up great, still have a good amount of meat. I also put the 35mm sway bar back on front. I didn't get the new MM sway bar installed on the rear, which I think would've made the car a little better balanced. As it was, I had some understeer in places I shouldn't. But the flip side was that I could get on the gas harder, earlier, and not get it loose. So I don't think I want to buy the 300 lb/in springs until I try it with the bigger MM bar on the rear.

I need to work on the fuel system (taking recommendations...). Toward the end of Day 1 of the event, I let the fuel level get a bit too low. Midway through a hard session, I got it to about 5/8 of a tank, and the pump started picking up air through turns. I finished the lap I was on and came in. Just that short bit of picking up air killed the AEM pump. I had a spare in the trailer, so I swapped it out the next morning, and then triple-checked that I was keeping it filled up on Day 2.

One of the highlights this year was running in the Late Model Exhibition "race". It was my first year doing it. I figured I wouldn't be very competitive against the more prepped guys in the S197 and S550 cars, but that I'd just start at the back, and if things were going good, I could try to move up a little. Well, just my luck...they started me toward the front. I lost a couple positions pretty quick but ran a few laps in 3rd and 4th until my brakes started fading away. I probably could've held a good position if not for that. I was definitely faster than some cars that I wouldn't have expected. Still 4-6 seconds off of the top 3 guys, though, even with a 3-second improvement over last year...

Makes me a little mad at myself since brake cooling has been "on the list" for a while. But I "hadn't ever had an issue at Hallett before" just running good (Motul 600/660) fresh fluid. Eh, live and learn...I'll be taking the opportunity to build a splitter, duct from the fog light holes, and maybe try to do some deflectors fed off of diffuser ramps in the splitter.

Small issues aside, it was a really great event! Last year I ran a 1:30.9 as my best. This year I improved to a 1:28.6. I actually had a lap that was even better, by a half second, but my transponder didn't register when I went through the finish. It showed I had one lap that was 2:56.351, which averages out to 1:28.17. So I at least did that on one lap.

My dad and brother brought their 2020 GT and the 2012 Boss 302 and ran those on some hot laps. My brother was going to run the Late Model Exhibition in the Boss 302, but it had an overheating problem in one of his sessions. Despite my urging, they wouldn't run the GT in it...

Anyways, the required photos from the event:
289936878_567276958142718_4425518369832845603_n.jpg289949635_313833437512010_2333041699070209826_n.jpg289790464_1220077782099033_8101271821339337530_n.jpg289809480_3349683425264994_1679664703546537445_n.jpg289705781_1806622279729527_4290873785123516842_n.jpg289742306_555153969473651_8210720451028143549_n.jpg289750419_444532834342321_7787084158826847211_n.jpg289360109_831968684443244_4387439188934710027_n.jpg289811462_550396876759968_4308664503346078218_n.jpg289802014_274609608198080_339148760719942012_n.jpg289921867_750251016101421_57381243013475720_n.jpg

289799091_704647634202187_5969539669404067480_n.jpg

289779959_1044018319839704_6565911811017154189_n.jpg

289763763_1187860685345881_5856281163399891533_n.jpg

289924974_593336105700761_4048075500543436855_n.jpg

289715191_401611488694250_3731931607992222589_n.jpg

289761426_583884019814318_5092271329309832022_n.jpg
 
I mentioned in the second to last post that I'm having issues with my fuel system. Anywhere near half a tank, it'll pick up air in corners. The problem has been getting worse with wider/stickier tires (as in, I seem to be needing to run more fuel in the tank every year lol).

So my current setup is a bit interesting. It appears to be a factory tank with baffling welded inside and a sump welded into the rear.
There's a 90* fitting off the sump, with a -10 AN line going to an Aeromotive filter housing.
Then there's an AEM 50-1005 pump.
Then another Aeromotive filter.
Then that has fittings to go to a -8 AN line, which carries the fuel to the inner wheel well, passenger side, where there's an Aeromotive Y-block. One side of the Y is capped off, and the other side has a -8AN line up to an Aeromotive 13129 regulator.
From the regulator, there's a -10 AN return from the regulator to the tank and a -6 AN line to the Holley Sniper EFI (deadheaded at the Sniper).

Confused? Here's a rudimentary drawing:

Fuel System.png
There are a few issues with this setup. I didn't think the baffling looked too bad when I had the tank dropped a couple of years ago. But the sump on the back of the tank is definitely an issue. For one, it's a safety hazard. The sump location means that the closest place to mount a pump is the rear bumper, behind the cover, so that's where the previous owner had the Aeromotive A1000 mounted. When it died, I got some fittings and used the AEM pump(s) mounted in the same spot. This could be a fire hazard in a rear collision. It also means that the pump doesn't sit anywhere close to being lower than the bottom of the tank. To go any lower would expose the pump that much more.

That may or may not be the reason that I can't run the tank down even halfway. Regardless, I've burned up an A1000 and 3 AEM pumps. They can't seem to survive picking up air, even briefly.

Returning straight off the regulator and deadheading at the Holley Sniper isn't ideal either. That allows fuel to heat up inside the rail any time consumption is low (idle, low RPM, etc). The practical reason I kept it like that was that the internal rails of the Sniper can't flow enough fuel to return the excess from something as large as an A1000 to the tank (I can't recall if the AEM flows to much or not). I haven't really noticed any running/driving issues related to that, but it is a thing.

Obviously, this needs a rework, and I want it to solve the problem for a long time to come, so it needs to be a fairly low-compromise solution.

I've been looking at a lot of options. One of them was using Holley Hydramat in a (new) bone-stock GT tank. There are a couple of things I don't like there. A 10x10 Hydramat may fit into the bottom of the tank and solve the fuel pickup issue, but the lack of baffling to control fuel seems like it may hurt cornering. Then there's how to get a large Hydramat into a stock tank with its tiny holes and get it held down with their magnets or epoxy. Cutting it and welding it back may be an option. But, after discussing this with Aeromotive, they raised the issue of whether large pumps out there like an A1000 or even the AEM will be able to draw through the Hydramat effectively enough. There may even be no issue normally, but in a hard corner where the Hydramat is only drawing off of a small portion, I may still have issues and burn up the in-tank pump. And, since the pump is in the tank now...it's a lot harder to swap it out at an event (of course, there's always the chance that a good setup will last for a very long time). Several compromises that I'm not sure I like there.

I've also been looking at just going with a new Aeromotive tank (based off the 03-04 Cobra) and A1000 in-tank pump setup. My issues there: it's expensive and I haven't seen anyone using it for road race/autocross. Nearly $2000 and I don't know if the baffling inside is going to be up to the task as I get faster and faster. Also, the A1000 is a LOT of fuel pump...so Aeromotive recommends a PWM speed controller (another $450) to tame it down at low RPM/low demand situations. That presents another host of issues, like how to get it to work off the Holley Sniper (not to mention the price; about $2000-2200 to go that route).

I could go ahead and just cut the floor of the trunk out to install a universal 15g tank with foam. Problem is, I'm not a fab guy. I can't even weld. So I'd have to buy all the stuff and still take it to someone to install. Then there's some other stuff I need to consider, like keeping trunk bulkheaded from the passenger compartment (this is still a full interior "street car"). I also don't know how things go with batteries mounted in the trunk. That seems like it would have to be a no-no? Sparks putting on/taking off the terminal could ignite fuel fumes from refilling the tank.

Anywhos, these are just the things that have come to my mind. I certainly don't mind spending a little coin to go the best route, I just have no clue what that is at the moment. Seems like there are some major tradeoffs any way I go.

Any ideas from you guys?
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Buy TMO Apparel

Buy TMO Apparel
Top