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Cortex Torque Arm and Watts: An Honest, Thorough, Track Based Review

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304
381
CA
Installation:

I did very little of the installation of the watts link or torque arm. Generally speaking, I would budget half a day to do the watts link, and an entire day to do the torque arm. I had many issues (and still have issues) with my midpipe hitting the torque arm.



Performance Pros:

My first event with the torque arm and watts link was an absolute shocker. The car was drastically different in almost every regard. The car had less brake dive, I could get on the power sooner, and weight transfer seemed to happen quicker but was less dramatic and less likely to upset the car. That is mostly due to the torque arms’ increased anti squat %. The watts link on the other hand was less apparent. The watts link really only made itself known when hopping curbs and on bumpy sections of the track. Specifically, pre-watts link, when I would hit a curb, the car would bounce/skip roughly 1/3 the width of the track. Because of this, I always avoided curbs. With the watts however, the car would heave up as I hit the curb, heave down as I came off the curb, and then be perfectly settled. That’s it. No drama or unpredictability. Curbs are now my new best friend. At the end of the day however, the parts did not (immediately) lead to a faster lap time. I had my previous suspension setup absolutely mastered, and I can say with 100% confidence that I was getting everything I could out of the previous setup from a driving perspective. I was a bit shocked to not have gone faster with the tq arm and watts. It is by no means an “instantly drop lap time by seconds” mod like many people seem to think it is. Simply put, the people who say this simply lacked seat time on their original suspension setup, and happened to become a better driver as they went on. Finally, (4 events later), I am starting to drop time consistently. Around 1s on a 2 minute course. But again. How much $$$$ for only 1 second? The main takeaway I had after this first event was the car was much easier to drive. Which is definitely a plus.


Performance Cons:

Most of these cons I think are vehicle and driving style specific. But I also want to point them out to show that you really can’t trust what you hear from everyone on the internet.

The first con of this system is the fact that it does, absolutely, have brake hop. I have gotten brake hop on multiple courses on multiple occasions. Roughly once per session. Many of us thought this wasn’t possible with an s-197 (I read the countless debates of people saying tq arms brake hop on certain chassis, while others said it won’t brake hop on s-197, etc.). Well for me, it absolutely can and does. I can get the car to brake hop if I apply too much brake too quickly. Once the chassis is settled into a braking event, I can apply increasing amounts of brake effort and brake hop will never make itself apparent. However, if I get on the brakes very hard very quickly, a brake hop event will begin. Not a fun feeling. I have video of each and every time the brake hop happened if interested in viewing. This brake hop issue I think is somewhat impacted by the fact that I have s-550 6 piston brembos on my s-197: I have a 9% increase in rear brake bias on this setup. This could potentially increase the probability of brake hop. But regardless, pre-torque arm, this car never, ever brake hopped in the 4 years of autocross + street driving and my 2 years of track driving.



The other con is the fact that my sway bar, damper and spring tuning had to be completely reworked after installing the tq. Arm + watts. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as in a way it proves that the cortex system does increase rear end grip (the car understeered after I installed the cortex system). But for someone who is looking for a pure plug and play, don’t get your hopes up. It took me multiple events and sway bar changes to get the balance back to where I like it (more on the oversteer side of things).



In conclusion:

Would I buy the tq arm and watts system again? Yes. It overall most definitely helped the car, and the closest competitors (Kenny brown rear grip kit) don’t have the glamour of the cortex stuff. Ricer school of thought, I know. Every time I look under the car, I smile. If pure lap times are what you are looking for, I would invest the money elsewhere. This watts link and torque arm package is very much an “end of the build” mod imo. It is nowhere near an “essential”.














 
899
545
I have been running the Cortex Watts and Torque arm for at least five years. I have never had brake hop. My front brakes start to lock and get into the ABS instead.

You might be onto something with the brake bias discussion. I am running the 15" Brembo Gran Am front brake kit with Pagid RST-1 pads. With the calipers and pads, I do have more front brake bias than the S550 front caliper setup.

I installed the Watts link before the torque arm. My impression is the torque arm had more of an impact with regard to stability over the curbs than the Watts link. Most likely, it is actually the combination of the two.

I am not convinced that Watts and torque arm are really faster than the OEM setup. But, it is easier to drive.
 
Five years on my Cortex Watts-TA set up. I'll second the comment that the car is just so much more controllable and with better traction on-throttle. I probably fit the description of someone who wasn't 100% confident yet with the stock suspension but when I started driving with the torque arm I was instantly more aggressive getting on the throttle out of corners and for me, I would have had to be really sloppy with the throttle to get the car to break loose. That translated into faster lap times very quickly. I can hammer curbs with no drama as well.

I have never had any rear axle hop. I was running early Brembo Grand Am 14" front brakes and then moved up to the AP Pro 5000 6 piston with no issues. I also changed to Cortex DA shocks/struts and removed the rear bar which also made a big impact on rear grip so I did make a few changes that all contributed. Now all I do is add an 18mm rear bar to balance front/rear when I feel the need and I'm working on a larger front splitter to balance an APR rear wing.
 
6,394
8,275
FWIW there are very few " magic bullets" in car handling, cambered rears were supposed to be worth seconds, so was a bunch of other stuff, in reality, they open the door for more finer suspension tuning and the combination of all those is a big leap. With regards to the wheel hop, back when I ran a torque arm in my 84 Camaro, it used to wheel hop, the remedy (for it), was to use stiffer lower trailing arms and bushings.
 
1,178
2,176
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
SoCal
Installation:

I did very little of the installation of the watts link or torque arm. Generally speaking, I would budget half a day to do the watts link, and an entire day to do the torque arm. I had many issues (and still have issues) with my midpipe hitting the torque arm.



Performance Pros:

My first event with the torque arm and watts link was an absolute shocker. The car was drastically different in almost every regard. The car had less brake dive, I could get on the power sooner, and weight transfer seemed to happen quicker but was less dramatic and less likely to upset the car. That is mostly due to the torque arms’ increased anti squat %. The watts link on the other hand was less apparent. The watts link really only made itself known when hopping curbs and on bumpy sections of the track. Specifically, pre-watts link, when I would hit a curb, the car would bounce/skip roughly 1/3 the width of the track. Because of this, I always avoided curbs. With the watts however, the car would heave up as I hit the curb, heave down as I came off the curb, and then be perfectly settled. That’s it. No drama or unpredictability. Curbs are now my new best friend. At the end of the day however, the parts did not (immediately) lead to a faster lap time. I had my previous suspension setup absolutely mastered, and I can say with 100% confidence that I was getting everything I could out of the previous setup from a driving perspective. I was a bit shocked to not have gone faster with the tq arm and watts. It is by no means an “instantly drop lap time by seconds” mod like many people seem to think it is. Simply put, the people who say this simply lacked seat time on their original suspension setup, and happened to become a better driver as they went on. Finally, (4 events later), I am starting to drop time consistently. Around 1s on a 2 minute course. But again. How much $$$$ for only 1 second? The main takeaway I had after this first event was the car was much easier to drive. Which is definitely a plus.


Performance Cons:

Most of these cons I think are vehicle and driving style specific. But I also want to point them out to show that you really can’t trust what you hear from everyone on the internet.

The first con of this system is the fact that it does, absolutely, have brake hop. I have gotten brake hop on multiple courses on multiple occasions. Roughly once per session. Many of us thought this wasn’t possible with an s-197 (I read the countless debates of people saying tq arms brake hop on certain chassis, while others said it won’t brake hop on s-197, etc.). Well for me, it absolutely can and does. I can get the car to brake hop if I apply too much brake too quickly. Once the chassis is settled into a braking event, I can apply increasing amounts of brake effort and brake hop will never make itself apparent. However, if I get on the brakes very hard very quickly, a brake hop event will begin. Not a fun feeling. I have video of each and every time the brake hop happened if interested in viewing. This brake hop issue I think is somewhat impacted by the fact that I have s-550 6 piston brembos on my s-197: I have a 9% increase in rear brake bias on this setup. This could potentially increase the probability of brake hop. But regardless, pre-torque arm, this car never, ever brake hopped in the 4 years of autocross + street driving and my 2 years of track driving.



The other con is the fact that my sway bar, damper and spring tuning had to be completely reworked after installing the tq. Arm + watts. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, as in a way it proves that the cortex system does increase rear end grip (the car understeered after I installed the cortex system). But for someone who is looking for a pure plug and play, don’t get your hopes up. It took me multiple events and sway bar changes to get the balance back to where I like it (more on the oversteer side of things).



In conclusion:

Would I buy the tq arm and watts system again? Yes. It overall most definitely helped the car, and the closest competitors (Kenny brown rear grip kit) don’t have the glamour of the cortex stuff. Ricer school of thought, I know. Every time I look under the car, I smile. If pure lap times are what you are looking for, I would invest the money elsewhere. This watts link and torque arm package is very much an “end of the build” mod imo. It is nowhere near an “essential”.














Great write up! What pad combination (brand/compound) are you running front & rear?
 
180
310
Utah
Great read. This off season, I put a torque arm on my car. Already had the watts link. I made several other changes as well, but I think I can attribute the torque arm for settling down the rear axle. No drama for sure. Very predictable on my car.

I am in the camp of getting faster, but not driving my car at the limit yet. So I can't say that the torque arm got me the personal best this month, but I will say it was a contributor.

I will have to watch for the brake hop. I have been going through gaining confidence in braking back and I think I have the car where it needs to be to get more aggressive. Running BOSS 302S ABS, Stock Brembo fronts, Pagid RSL1 front and RSL29 rear.
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
1,180
1,420
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
South Carolina
I concur with all of the feedback here and this is an excellent write-up, although I haven't experienced brake hop with my setup.

I overcame the rear sway bar adjustments by removing it. Car handles great now, not nearly as skittish as when I first installed the torque arm.
 
1,178
2,176
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
SoCal
G-LOC R16 front and R12 rear. They have been so good that I've been nervous to try anything else. I might try R10's in the rear to see if that might mitigate the potential for brake hop.
R10 rears made a big improvement. I was having the same brake hop issue with 16/12.
 
334
353
Great write up and interesting thread. In terms of curb hopping and rough roads, I have found that softening the effective rear spring rate and using good dampers makes a huge improvement. I run Cortex coilovers with Koni dampers, soft 400/200 spring rates, quite a bit of ride height, no rear bar, and stock UCA and LCA in back and the car devours curbs. Super stable, not stepping out, I love them. Curbs are my secret weapon.

Honestly, I think removing my stock 25 mm rear bar made as big a difference as anything. Soften it up!
 
304
381
CA
My car understeered like a pig with no rear sway bar on the cortex setup. It was potentially faster and easier to drive, but was no fun whatsoever. I could see no rear sway bar working in a car with coyote power, but with only 290whp I couldn't throttle steer the car how I wanted.
 
334
353
My car understeered like a pig with no rear sway bar on the cortex setup. It was potentially faster and easier to drive, but was no fun whatsoever. I could see no rear sway bar working in a car with coyote power, but with only 290whp I couldn't throttle steer the car how I wanted.
Interesting. That wasn't my experience but tons of variables and personal preferences obviously. What spring rates are you using?
 
125
112
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Ann Arbor, MI
Great discussion and analysis. Given the picture here, does anyone see any other parts that I could use in the rear to further reduce oversteer on throttle at corner exits? Or do I just need to start adjusting the adjustable parts I already have? (watts link, sway bar, dampers etc etc)

2D3043BE-247D-4B66-9B4E-0B3F757C9626.jpeg
 
Great discussion and analysis. Given the picture here, does anyone see any other parts that I could use in the rear to further reduce oversteer on throttle at corner exits? Or do I just need to start adjusting the adjustable parts I already have? (watts link, sway bar, dampers etc etc)
Before I added the Cortex torque arm, I also had issues with sudden oversteer on corner exit. The first thing I did was remove the rear sway bar and that really helped. The torque arm just eliminated it completely. If I was you, I would remove the rear bar only and see how it feels. Then you can adjust rear roll center easily on the Watts cover.....in your case lower the pivot mechanism for more rear grip (or vise versa). If you have adjustable shocks/struts then that would be the final tuning. I had understeer without my rear bar but by adjusting high and low speed bump and rebound (JRi DA) I found a happy medium. I also have an APR wing that, despite a Tiger Racing hood, I believe is still screwing with front/rear balance but I'm planning to revise my front splitter to hopefully help with that.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
You guys already touched on this but a big part of getting the full advantages of modifications like this is understanding what changed from your baseline and altering your driving style (and/or rest of suspension setup) to now take advantage of your expanded performance window.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,553
8,204
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
What I'm not hearing here is what hole is the watts in? It makes a HUGE difference which hole its in as that is where the roll center is and that has a major impact on the handling. Do yourself a favor, move it all the way to the top and run a session then move it all the way to the bottom and do a session. Then season to taste...the experience is eye opening.
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
1,180
1,420
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
South Carolina
What I'm not hearing here is what hole is the watts in? It makes a HUGE difference which hole its in as that is where the roll center is and that has a major impact on the handling. Do yourself a favor, move it all the way to the top and run a session then move it all the way to the bottom and do a session. Then season to taste...the experience is eye opening.
Dang, that's such an easy thing to do I don't know why I haven't done it yet. I bow to the sensei.
 

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