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CorteX Watts Link Group Buy and JRi Dampers Discount

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302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
441
Southeast
Grant 302 said:
No need! They're on sale right now for $995!

Oh, so the Group Buy price was $995? For some reason I thought it was less, but thanks for the information .

All the best,
Dave
2HP
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
302 Hi Pro said:
Oh, so the Group Buy price was $995? For some reason I thought it was less, but thanks for the information .

All the best,
Dave
2HP

Sorry Dave, we're on different pages. IIRC, the discount was $100 with free shipping and I think prices went up since. So you're right, the group price was less than the current sale price.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
4,008
1,924
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
Black Boss said:
Yep, That's right. The 3/8 threads are on the small side, only got just over 2-3 threads of engagement with the fittings....
Are they taper threads or O ring boss straight threads? The pitch is the same but no taper, need to use ORB (o-ring) type AN adapters on these types of thread. That is why you can only get a few threads of an NPT fitting in. Similar to oil cooler adapters from Setrab.
Steve
Steve
 
Just wanted to give a quick update and my impressions after my wattslink install.

All the diff cooling holes on the side of the wattslink diff cover are 3/8 NPT, as mentioned above, and they're not tapered. So, you need to use thread sealer like the instructions mention.

As far as difference in driving feel, all I have to say is... WOW!
It's going to be hard to explain the difference in words, but the rear end feels solid and very predictable. There's a few corners here, in Mexico, that I'd like to do a power slide when no ones around and I no longer get a tank slapper effect towards the end of the slide.

Per Cortex's recommendation, I used the 2nd hole from the top on the diff cover, but I think I may have to go one hole lower, since I lost a little bit of rotation. For now, I softened the stock rear shocks one click (5 to 4) and it felt a little bit better. My plan is to test it out at VIR in a couple of weeks and see which position works best for me with the stock suspension (+ 18mm rear bar).

I do have a question for those that have moved the wattslinks between the different holes. Did you have to re-adjust the links, or the length preset by cortex also worked for the 3rd hole, as well? (The preset lengths on the 2nd hole centered the rear end perfectly).

Overall, I highly recommend this part to anyone out there that tracks their car.
 
F.D. Sako said:
Just wanted to give a quick update and my impressions after my wattslink install.

All the diff cooling holes on the side of the wattslink diff cover are 3/8 NPT, as mentioned above, and they're not tapered. So, you need to use thread sealer like the instructions mention.

As far as difference in driving feel, all I have to say is... WOW!
It's going to be hard to explain the difference in words, but the rear end feels solid and very predictable. There's a few corners here, in Mexico, that I'd like to do a power slide when no ones around and I no longer get a tank slapper effect towards the end of the slide.

Per Cortex's recommendation, I used the 2nd hole from the top on the diff cover, but I think I may have to go one hole lower, since I lost a little bit of rotation. For now, I softened the stock rear shocks one click (5 to 4) and it felt a little bit better. My plan is to test it out at VIR in a couple of weeks and see which position works best for me with the stock suspension (+ 18mm rear bar).

I do have a question for those that have moved the wattslinks between the different holes. Did you have to re-adjust the links, or the length preset by cortex also worked for the 3rd hole, as well? (The preset lengths on the 2nd hole centered the rear end perfectly).

Overall, I highly recommend this part to anyone out there that tracks their car.

Glad you liked it!
Did you notice any increase in NVH?
 
13Boss said:
Glad you liked it!
Did you notice any increase in NVH?

I noticed a minor increase in gear whine.
My rear end has always been loud, now it's a tad bit louder. It's well worth the investment. It feels like a totally different car.
 
F.D. Sako said:
I noticed a minor increase in gear whine.
My rear end has always been loud, now it's a tad bit louder. It's well worth the investment. It feels like a totally different car.
I've noticed my gear whine is a bit louder too but hadn't put the two together until now. For me there was no increase in NVH as I already had the Ford Racing panhard bar which added a bit.

I finally got a chance to really push my car with the CorteX watts link and JRi dampers and I am very pleased with the changes. Let me first say I was a bit skeptical that the watts link would make much of a difference. I had already been talking to Filip about adding one and after seeing one in person at the 50th in Vegas last year I knew the CorteX piece was the one for me. I then met and talked to Dean Martin at Sonoma last August at the PWC race and he was a big fan so that sealed it for a Winter mod. I had also been waiting for the SA JRi's since Vegas too. I also installed the drop ball joints and bump steer kit and had the car corner weighted so it's a bit hard to pinpoint what each piece added but here goes.

At Thunderhill on Tuesday there was a noticeable improvement in the car staying settled during transitions and when hitting the curbing. I don't hit the curbs real hard anyway but one of the reasons why was because it would unsettle the car. Not anymore. In turn 12 at TH you can cut it inside very far but there are rumble strips that I typically avoid. Not I'm hitting them at WOT with the confidence the car will continue going where I point it. There are two off camber corners there, 3 & 5, where my car never felt like it was going where I wanted it to go and was always a bit sketchy when pushing it there. I was taking those corners at least 5 mph faster with complete control. The turn 6-9 complex has a 100+ mph sweeper in turn 8 that always raised the hair on the back of my neck. The JRi dampers keep the car completely settled and planted and I can power through there without flinching.

So for me transitions are much more stable and predictable and the car is hunkered down and hooked up. Rear traction seemed to me improved as well and overall the car was well balanced with no oversteer and no push. I'm running staggered with stock sway bars and still drive my car on the street so I'm not changing that. Because the car is moving around less it feels lighter too. Needless to say I'm very pleased with the upgrades and CorteX did a fantastic job installing the suspension pieces and were great to work with.

For my SA damper settings from full still I used -15 F and -42 R on track and -35 F and -42 R for the street. My goal is to find a setting on the rear that doesn't need to be adjusted at the track although it's not difficult to do so I'm just not as limber as I once was. ;)

@CorteX Racing
@BigTaco
@SDS
@Wingrider
@Grant 302
 
Just wanted to update on the gear whine increase. Today, for the first time, I went on the highway with the car, and the gear whine is noticeably high, to the point where it's unbearable and hurts my ears.

I'm 100% not everyone will have this problem, because my car whined pretty bad with the stock panhard bar, so it's understandable that the watts link would increase it.

I might have to bring some ear plugs along for the +5hr ride to VIR. then I'll most likely take it to a shop and have the gears re-aligned while they replace the pinion seal.
 
F.D. Sako said:
Just wanted to update on the gear whine increase. Today, for the first time, I went on the highway with the car, and the gear whine is noticeably high, to the point where it's unbearable and hurts my ears.

I'm 100% not everyone will have this problem, because my car whined pretty bad with the stock panhard bar, so it's understandable that the watts link would increase it.

I might have to bring some ear plugs along for the +5hr ride to VIR. then I'll most likely take it to a shop and have the gears re-aligned while they replace the pinion seal.

I do have a whine too. I am definitely not eager to hear even higher whine if this turns to be due to watts link.
 
Filip suggested that I back out the load bearing studs on the cover to see if that makes a difference. Hopefully, I'll have some time this weekend to try that out. If not, I'll be using earplugs or driving with the windows down to VIR, until I get the rear end sorted out at a perf. shop (no more dealer for me!)
 

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