Drag suspension tuning

[eng90]

Hey guys,

I need to tune my friends car for drag racing for his boss.

For stock app if think its best to dial the rear 2 and 5 front .

Is that true ??

And for later setups .. What other suspension setups that will help for str8 line racing ?

And if i want to add on coilovers for my car , would it be better handling on str8 lines too or not ? Cuz im into corners more but i like doing some drag racing too .. Ive heard that coilovers are not good for str8 lines cuz they make the rear suspension stiff and this would make rear tires spin so no traction

If there is any concept or idea that i can refer to that would be gr8

Thanks for your help guys,

 

[Johnson13]

First off, find out if he has the torsen rear gears. They arent meant for straight line launches. From what I understand because we are adjusting rebound more than compression with our shocks, you would want 1 on the front and 5 on the back. I would remove the front sway bar for more transfer of weight and put skinnies on the front "17 is the smallest you can go with the Brembo's and drag radials on the back. Upper and lower control arms are a must to get rid of wheel hop. I tried last summer, but had no luck with the stock Pirellis. I set the shocks opposite of what I said and got a best of 2.1 60'. Didnt remove the sway bar either. At just under 3000', I did a terrible 13.283 @108mph.

 

[twistedneck]

First off, find out if he has the torsen rear gears. They arent meant for straight line launches. From what I understand because we are adjusting rebound more than compression with our shocks, you would want 1 on the front and 5 on the back. I would remove the front sway bar for more transfer of weight and put skinnies on the front "17 is the smallest you can go with the Brembo's and drag radials on the back. Upper and lower control arms are a must to get rid of wheel hop. I tried last summer, but had no luck with the stock Pirellis. I set the shocks opposite of what I said and got a best of 2.1 60'. Didnt remove the sway bar either. At just under 3000', I did a terrible 13.283 @108mph.

Good advice.. I didn't adjust anything and used Steeda sports with Eibach sport struts and shocks. Already had the correct stiff lower arms, upper arm, and adjustable lower brackets. I found out something.. if you have the brackets in a pro-squat position like I did at first. i.e. arms pointing up to the rear end it will cause the rear to slam into the upper link and then the body of the car. BOOM. I thought I wiped out my rear end. all it took for a fix was to change the orientation of the rear lower arms by dropping it to the second hole. now the rear arm was pointing down slightly to the rear axle, resulting in a slight anti-squat and no more contact at launch or second gear.

Managed a 1.75 60' slipping the clutch on purpose. dropping the clutch netted a 1.85 60'. she ran 11.6 @122 in 3000' air.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Managed a 1.75 60' slipping the clutch on purpose. dropping the clutch netted a 1.85 60'. she ran 11.6 @122 in 3000' air.
[/quote]

Nice numbers.

Drag radials and a tune??

 

[twistedneck]

[quote author=TMSBOSS]

Nice numbers.

Drag radials and a tune??
[/quote]

I wish.. its a 300A GT with boss heads and boss R cams. Plopped the CJ intake and monoblade on it with headers and AED tune. Put down 489 HP @7500 413 tq on a Mustang dyno (365 / 365 stock) and I gotta let off there to save the rods (and I only have boss springs). its kind of a pig because I geared it down to a 3.15. With all this torque and wide gear I'll be shifting at lot less mid corner and it clobbers the tires still anyway. but applied torque did go WAY down - its still fun to drive with that gear traps at 122mph in real world DA. still, i'm done with the drag strip just waiting to grenade my stock MT82.

Tires were 15x9" Hoosier drag radials, they are not everything proof. after a bunch of runs I realized you cant just blast the tires off the clutch must be slipped starting about 4000 rpm. even then its easy to boil them right off.