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Early 2012 V6 Steering Rack Software

I am entirely out of my element in this particular situation, and I may be one of only a handful at best who have tried doing this, so I really am not sure where this information may be. Someone on the TMO facebook group was able to have ford update their 2011 GT rack to newer software and it eliminated his EPAS feedback issue (he doesn't track his car, and I believe he is on aftermarket urethane bushings not delrin). My question here is twofold:
1) has anyone else had success with this? I have read MANY posts about folks replacing their rack with a boss or newer GT rack when going down the boss302S arm route, but has anyone had their software flashed with success?
2) does anyone know if whatever computer in the GT that controls the rack is even the same as the V6's? If 1) is indeed possible, and the mustangs are as "lego set" as I would imagine, I would assume all racks on standard production cars are the same, that being standard GT's and V6's. If so, this would mean I potentially could have the software flashed and problem solved.

Does anyone either have this info, know who might - someone with a direct line to Ford perhaps, KorH or Vorshlag? I would like to at least attempt to do this without needing a new rack, and if software would fix it, that would be incredibly ideal.

Any information would be greatly apprecaited.
 
Looks like this is what the FB user had done. It is a gt500, but does anyone know if this is very similar to the EAPS issue with early 5.0’s? If so, theoretically I can have them flash it with a newer version then my car shipped with, and it would solve the issue? I have a feeling I can’t be the first person to have gone down this path though.

2011 gt500 TSB for steering wheel shudder:

*EDIT* I am not the only person to have gone down this path. Of course vorshlag already tried. Damn. http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Project...599286_Vm7eU#!i=1381991988&k=GMR4bkm&lb=1&s=A
 
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You're definitely not the first to inquire about the reflashing of the stock EPAS system (much discussion was had back when these cars were newer), but I haven't really seen any repeated success with it. That one record of it working sent a lot of people to the dealers, who were then told it either doesn't work or tried flashing without any success (such as Terry). I drive a 2010-production 2011, and with the stock rack I could set off the shudder in Sport mode with stock control arms (usually after taking a bump or on a road with significant crown) at highway speeds. It wasn't happening all the time (maybe 3 instances), but it only takes once before you start hitting the Google machine.

Back in early 2012, the only real fix at the time was to pony up for a Boss 302 EPAS rack, which was $1,000 and not many people were going to take that plunge for street use. I heard they fixed the steering crown nibble programing that led to the fault sometime in mid to late 2012, so earlier S197 IIs can get a later rack to replace it from salvage for more like $150. Since I don't have accurate information on when the 2012 switchover happened (they likely moved to the revised rack once all the originals were used on the assembly line), I usually advise people interested in making the swap to get a 2013 or 2014 rack.

I'm not aware of any differences between Base and GT EPAS racks and according to Ford they use the same exact part number. You'll see different part numbers by wheel size, which captdistraction let us know was due to inner tie rod travel limiters that can be adjusted as needed after-the-fact (but if given the option, may be nice to match up to the wheel diameter you plan to run if availability and prices are the same).
 
You're definitely not the first to inquire about the reflashing of the stock EPAS system (much discussion was had back when these cars were newer), but I haven't really seen any repeated success with it. That one record of it working sent a lot of people to the dealers, who were then told it either doesn't work or tried flashing without any success (such as Terry). I drive a 2010-production 2011, and with the stock rack I could set off the shudder in Sport mode with stock control arms (usually after taking a bump or on a road with significant crown) at highway speeds. It wasn't happening all the time (maybe 3 instances), but it only takes once before you start hitting the Google machine.

Back in early 2012, the only real fix at the time was to pony up for a Boss 302 EPAS rack, which was $1,000 and not many people were going to take that plunge for street use. I heard they fixed the steering crown nibble programing that led to the fault sometime in mid to late 2012, so earlier S197 IIs can get a later rack to replace it from salvage for more like $150. Since I don't have accurate information on when the 2012 switchover happened (they likely moved to the revised rack once all the originals were used on the assembly line), I usually advise people interested in making the swap to get a 2013 or 2014 rack.

I'm not aware of any differences between Base and GT EPAS racks and according to Ford they use the same exact part number. You'll see different part numbers by wheel size, which captdistraction let us know was due to inner tie rod travel limiters that can be adjusted as needed after-the-fact (but if given the option, may be nice to match up to the wheel diameter you plan to run if availability and prices are the same).
Thanks for the info! I am a bit unsure how I will go about this. I guess I need to start planning on a new rack... that’s sort of a downer. I suppose salvage is always an option, just never know how many curbs the salvage car had hopped.

Now that 2013-14 cars exist, with what is seemingly a software revision (unless it’s hardware..?), has anyone tried flashing their 2011/12 car with 13/14 EPAS software?I know terry and folks had no luck with the gt500 TSB, but would the same result happen if I tried to flash a 13/14 software?
 
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369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
Good luck, when I had the issue a couple of years ago I could not get a Ford dealer to even attempt to help. I was told by 3 different dealers that the pcm in the EPAS could not be refreshed. When I showed them the GT500 TSB (my Brembo car had the same EPAS) I was told that they could only perform the service after running my VIN to verify it was under the TSB. It took an EPAS swap to solve the problems. There are some options 1) used rack from a 13 or 14 car 2) factory remanufactured rack 3) Ford Racing Epas from Boss 302s. I looked at option 1 and found that there were different part no's depending on wheel size. Some of this is due to the tie rod length and steering stops, but since bigger heavier brakes and wheels seemed induce the problem I figured there may be some difference in programming as well. I couldn't locate a rack with the correct part # for 19" wheels. 2 was a no go for me as well. I called a couple of the companies that offer reman EPAS units and they could not verify that their units contained the 13-14 programming. So, I ended up going with option 3 to make sure I wouldn't have additional issues. It wasn't cheap, but has eliminated the issues. The steering feels better on the road and track and no more shudder issues. The EPAS swap took about 3 hours on jack stands taking my time. Contrary to popular belief you can exchange the EPAS without touching a motor mount bolt. A couple of the bolts were tedious and required the use of a flex head ratchet, but the motor mount bolts and K member stayed in place.
 
Part number for 19" wheels is DR3Z-3504-CE and it's what I picked up to eliminate that shudder. The same base part number is used for the different options, changing out the last two letters for AE (17 inch) or BE (18 inch). I did some hunting on eBay and Car-Part and examples exist in good condition for $200 if you're willing to put in the time.
 
369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
There were none available 2 years ago when I needed one. I looked for a few weeks before giving up and buying the FRPP rack from Watson Racing. I wasn't happy about spending the money at the time, but it has worked well.
 
Part number for 19" wheels is DR3Z-3504-CE and it's what I picked up to eliminate that shudder. The same base part number is used for the different options, changing out the last two letters for AE (17 inch) or BE (18 inch). I did some hunting on eBay and Car-Part and examples exist in good condition for $200 if you're willing to put in the time.
There were none available 2 years ago when I needed one. I looked for a few weeks before giving up and buying the FRPP rack from Watson Racing. I wasn't happy about spending the money at the time, but it has worked well.

I see one on eBay that was off a 13, claims to be for 19” and 20” wheels. 70k miles on the rack (my car has 66 so besides having no idea how much abuse it may have on it...) theoretically this would work. Is there much worry with going with a used rack? I have never heard of folks having steering rack issues, but I also have never specifically kept an eye out for that.
 
369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
Theoretically it should work. Check the part # to make sure. When I was looking I found a couple that claimed to be off of cars with 19" wheels, but the part # didn't match up. Also, do a quick google search on Ford EPAS failures. There have been problems with them. That is why there are remanufactured units available in the market.
 
Theoretically it should work. Check the part # to make sure. When I was looking I found a couple that claimed to be off of cars with 19" wheels, but the part # didn't match up. Also, do a quick google search on Ford EPAS failures. There have been problems with them. That is why there are remanufactured units available in the market.
Oh man. Hmm. Knowing there is potential issue is sort of shitty. But 250 bucks vs ~1100 is also a lot less.
Thanks for the pointers.
 
369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
The price difference is why I was looking for a used EPAS. I just couldn't find a suitable one at the time and didn't want to have to change it twice. The $1,000 was painful for an item that Ford will not warranty. It did solve my problems and it drives a lot better than with the shudder. Good luck in finding the best solution for you.
 
Knowing there is potential issue is sort of shitty.
I got mine on eBay as well, but the seller was a salvage yard expanding their reach through an online storefront (user clevelandpap - I get a bunch of my OEM takeoffs from them). They checked that it worked for me and offered a 6 month warranty, which covers you for a while post-installation. If you're not rushing, I suggest trying to find a listing like that.
 
That listing seems to match what you're looking for. The seller has a high eBay reputation rating and the warranty seems good. There isn't a picture with the listing, but if you have any questions you can always contact them through eBay.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5338634152&icep_item=313316908634

This is the same person you got yours from. And there is a pic, but doesn't say miles nor is the part number the same as what you said to look for? BR33-3D070-BM? I suppose I can ask for mileage of the car, hopefully they have that info.

Any input on this option?
 
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5338634152&icep_item=313316908634

This is the same person you got yours from. And there is a pic, but doesn't say miles nor is the part number the same as what you said to look for? BR33-3D070-BM? I suppose I can ask for mileage of the car, hopefully they have that info.

Any input on this option?
Description says 2014 GT, but also includes that it was taken off a 2011, so somewhat conflicting information. I'd suggest reaching out to the seller before you consider it. If it did come off a 2014, it looks like a viable option.
 
369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5338634152&icep_item=313316908634

This is the same person you got yours from. And there is a pic, but doesn't say miles nor is the part number the same as what you said to look for? BR33-3D070-BM? I suppose I can ask for mileage of the car, hopefully they have that info.

Any input on this option?
If I remember correctly the part numbers beginning with a "B" are early racks probably from a 2011 or early 2012 car. It will fit, but will probably have the shudder issues.
 
Description says 2014 GT, but also includes that it was taken off a 2011, so somewhat conflicting information. I'd suggest reaching out to the seller before you consider it. If it did come off a 2014, it looks like a viable option.
Yea, bit confusing... I contacted them, and two other sellers. We shall see what they say. Looks like there are a few viable options though which is nice. Ideally I would like a lower millage unit. At some point it makes more sense to buy a new one from KohR if all I find are high millage. If it goes out, the annoyance, + buying a new one + needing an alignment almost pays for going with the 302S unit. But, we will see what the sellers can come up with.
 
369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
There is one more option. You could always buy a new stock replacement from one of the online Ford parts places. They are around $800 and are warranted, unlike the FRPP rack. You have to pay a core charge, but you get it back after returning your old rack.
 
Did the OP ever resolve the feedback issue??

I have a 2012 Boss and I'm thinking of doing a control arm upgrade.

I have to be honest, I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around this. According to Tasca Ford, a DR3Z-3404-CE is for MY 2011-2014 with 19" wheels. Unless there is a hardware difference, a rack is a rack, it doesn't know what year car it's in. Same goes for software, the computer doesn't care.

Watson Racing description of M-3200-EPAS = Electric assist steering rack with performance calibration.
 

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