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S197 Eric's Candy Red S197 Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
The clutch is out and doesn't look too bad considering the age, mileage and track use. I am not sure why the pedal stuck to the floor and it locked me out of gears. Does anyone see anything wrong with these pics?

IMG_0803.jpgIMG_0804.jpgIMG_0801.jpgIMG_0802.jpg
 
369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
The slave cylinder wasn't leaking and the car was still driving fine on the street. Only had issues on the track once it started to warm up. I guess the new found rpm's and hp from the last mods were too much for the stock clutch.
 
369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
The trans arrived at Calimer's Friday morning. They had torn it down for the Stage 2 build by Friday afternoon. It didn't have any gear damage and they were sure the issues I had were solely the clutch. It was their opinion that the last round of mods just overpowered the stock worn clutch. I should have it back in about 2 weeks. This gives me some time to replace the flywheel, pilot bearing, and clutch before it comes back. I will also install the Maximum Motorsports clutch pedal stop and replace the exhaust stud on the drivers side catalytic converter I broke removing it.
 
369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
Trans came back quicker than I thought. It was delivered Thursday afternoon. I spent part of today installing the flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch and clutch pedal stop.
 
369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
It looks like the pictures didn't upload last night. The clutch pedal stop is a PITA to install. I am too big and getting too old to work standing on my head under the dash.

IMG_0813 2.jpgIMG_0814 2.jpg I

The new MWG x-spec standard handle shifter is installed as well. I decided to upgrade my 8 year old gen 2 MGW while everything was out. A friend is coming over today to help me wrestle the tranny back in. If all goes well I will start breaking in the clutch this afternoon.
 
369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
I installed a Mcleod bleeder valve on the clutch line at the transmission end. I figured it would make it easier for fluid changes later, but after installing the trans I can't see how you can possibly reach it. Also, it is pretty close to the trans tunnel. Does anyone that has installed one have any ideas?
 
369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
I went back in and took out the Mcleod bleeder valve. The way it fits on my car I can't possibly see how I could actually use it so it was just introducing a failure point.

IMG_0818.jpg
 
369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
Finally got everything wrapped up and the car back on the street. I ran into a couple of minor issues. I forgot to install the transmission vent before I raised the transmission into place. My hands and arms were too big to insert it with the transmission in. I tried everything including lowering the rear mount. I fought with it for a couple of evenings after work. In the end I had to get someone (my wife) with smaller hands and arms to reach in and insert it. I will probably never hear the end of her having to fix my track car, but it is still better than taking the trans back out. Here are a couple shots of the new MGW that replace my pre race spec version that I installed back in 2013-2014.

MGW x spec.jpgmgw interior.jpg

I also learned that you have to have the factory rubber shift boot for the Race Spec. The previous MGW came with its own rubber boot that had a large oval hole to match the shifter body. It will not work with the new version due to the different holes on the top side. You can't zip tie it to the new shifter body. I didn't remember the old MGW coming with a new boot, but when it wouldn't fit I went through my boxes of original parts in the garage and found the factory shifter and boot.

I started breaking in the new clutch today. A little behind schedule to make the NASA Bourbon Barrel and NCM next weekend, but at least it is back driving. First impressions are this is going to take some getting used to. The clutch engagement point is higher. This combined with the reduced mass of the clutch and flywheel makes it drive verify different. I am having to relearn driving the car after 11 years.
 
369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
Okay, I need to limit the clutch pedal travel. I installed the maximum motorsports tilton pedal stop, but when I shorten the stroke the car won't start. I now it is the cpp switch. For the guys that have used the pedal stop did you bypass the switch or make an extension that utilized the switch?
 
369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
Just reset the switch. Pull the plunger out, press the clutch pedal and the switch will adjust to the new setting. I had the same issue.
I tried that first. The plunger didn't pull out very far, maybe 1/2" and it felt like it was going to break if I pulled harder. The factory clutch engaged pretty high and the new one is a bit higher. I really want to shorten the range of movement before I spend too much time learning the new engagement point. I will pull the switch out and try resetting it again.
 
369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
The switch won't reset where I need it. I guess I am back to plan B. I will stop at the hardware store tomorrow to come up with something adjustable to replace the rubber bump stop on the pedal side.
 
369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
Took some of the slack out of the bottom of the pedal stroke and replaced the rubber pad that activates the plunger on the cpp switch with a 6mm flat head bolt and a couple of flange nuts. It works great allowing me to shorten the pedal stroke and still start the car. It is much easier to drive now, but I think I need to take up a little more slack still. Will play with it some more tomorrow.
 
369
321
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
I am supposed to be at CMP this weekend, but pulling the Calimer Stage 2 back out instead. Fourth gear broke during a test drive by my tuner yesterday after some injector work. Car moves, but no fourth gear and something is rattling around inside the transmission when you let the clutch out. I have just under 1200 mile on the trans including 1000 break in miles on the street one track day at National Corvette Museum Motorsports Park a couple of weeks ago. I have emailed Calimer's yesterday afternoon and got a couple of response asking questions related to clutch and power adders on the car. I don't expect to hear anything else from them until after the 4th.
 

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