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First Track Day with my 3V

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16
29
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
North Carolina
I am making this as a sort of recap for myself after my first HPDE with my 06 GT. But I would love for anyone to read through and give input and suggestions, especially on the next modifications :)

On 11/12 I attended the HPDE hosted by SVT Cobra Club and Track Club USA at VIR. The first thing to say is that it was an awesome event, with some awesome folks. I couldn't have asked for a better first time on track in my own car. To preface my experience, I have raced multiple 24hrs of Lemons and Lucky Dog races in my family's 97 crown vic (Wilwood brakes, coilovers, the whole shebang). I have also driven my 3V in multiple autocross events as well as having completed the Ford Racing School in Charlotte. So not my first time on track, just my first time at VIR and in my own mustang. My 3V currently is set up as follows:

Engine:
- JLT series 3 intake
- Shorty headers -> x-pipe -> Magnaflow competition mufflers
- Lito tuned

Suspension:
- Ford K springs
- Worn out and previously raced B302 front struts
- KYB OEM rear struts (unknown age. They were on the car when I bought it in 2019)
- Steeda strut tower brace
- Steeda competition front sway bar
- Stock rear sway bar (will most likely stay that way or get a V6 bar)

Brakes:
- 4 Pot Brembo's w/ SS Lines
- Hawk HP+ pads (front only)
- completely stock rear brakes

Wheels/tires:
- 18x10 square setup
- Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar tires(220tw) 285/40/18 on all corners

Other:
- MGW Short throw

IMG_8814.jpeg
With all of that being said, here is how the day went!
I was in the intermediate run group based on my previous experience, which I was completely comfortable with. I knew going into this day with my 150k mile 3V that I would be spending a lot of time feeling out both the car and the track. My first two morning sessions were exactly that, slowly finding the limits of the tires and the brakes. Brake pads were something that I went back and forth about so. many. times. before I finally made a decision. I was between the Hawk HP+ and the EBC Bluestuff. I ultimately went with the HP+ because of the reviews I had seen in other places and the relatively high coefficient of friction (0.55) that it carried through its entire operating temp. The downside of these pads was that their operating temp range didn't go nearly as high as I would have liked (around 800F I believe), which definitely showed on track. Overall, I was happy with the brakes, jut left me longing a bit more for the carbotechs that we run on the aforementioned Crown Vic. I used Track Addict to track lap times for all of the sessions, but was only able to get GoPro footage during my last two sessions.

Best time for session 1 was a 2:32.8. It was very much an exploratory session of both the track and the capabilities of my lackluster setup. Session 2 improved to a 2:26.1 and would have bene down to 2:25 if not for a Miata and end of session coming together on my last lap around. Session 3 was cut short after 3 laps due to some issue that I still am unaware of, but after being parked in the middle of the S's for 10min, a full course black was displayed and we all treked back into the pit.

IMG_8950.jpeg

Session 4 was where it all came together. I had extra time and ran for around 45min (to make up for the shorted stint from session 3's accident). After a couple laps to get clear of traffic and get heat in the tires, I started to rack up faster and faster times. I got my 2:25, then 2:23.4, and then my fastest time of 2:22.8. I feel like my tires held out just for this lap, because afterwards they started to feel super greasy. Also, after getting this lap I was content for the day and happy to start cooling down, especially since my tires were no longer giving me the response I wanted. Unfortuantly, my GoPro died before recording my fastest lap, but here was the best one I recorded:

Before going out for this session, I noticed my clutch pedal was "clicking" or "chunking" a little bit when I hit the pedal. I looked under to find the cotter pin had fallen off and the eye hook piece attaching the pedal to the master cylinder was only half on and freely moving around. This is where it was super handy to have assorted zip ties nearby! With the zip tie in the groove instead of the cotter pin, the eye piece stayed in place and felt completely fine. That zip tie is still in place now as I type this a week later lol. Additionally, I noticed a grinding noise as I was going out for my last session. I assumed it was my rear brakes, and my pedal still felt firm and I had no problem stopping so I just went ahead and sent it. Sure enough, it was in fact my right rear brake rotor. Turns out that Advance Auto pads don't like the track too much...20221112_220327.jpg


I was able to find a parts store on my way home and went ahead and got a rotor and new pads. Sure enough, the pad had been eaten through due to seized caliper pins and dug into the rotor. I was able to free one pin enough to put it together to get the rest of the way home, but not without making a little blood sacrifice. Pro-tip: don't punch brake caliper brackets. They will win everytime.

After doing a little post-track day inspection, I found that my driver side rear brakes were almost in similar condition. So that caliper bracket will be replaced as well.

My short list of things to be replaced/upgraded are:
- Shocks and struts as #1. I really want to do the Steeda pro comp shocks/struts after reading through Billy Johnson's write up. I don' have the budget to do insane coilovers or anything crazy. And since the Koni yellows recently went to ~$1000 compared to their former price of ~$700ish, the Steeda option looks much better, and Billy Johnson approved. I still drive the car on the road a few times a week and so the double duty shocks and struts are enticing.

- Better tires. I am interested in the Nitto NT01 tires as I have never seen anything bad about them and think they'd be great for the weekend warrior like myself.

- New rear diff. most likely the Eaton Tru-trac, again as recommended by Billy Johnson.

If you read this far, I really appreciate it! Please leave any recommendations and tips, especially on suspension! Thanks!

IMG_9036.jpeg
 
80
65
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Houston, TX
I am making this as a sort of recap for myself after my first HPDE with my 06 GT. But I would love for anyone to read through and give input and suggestions, especially on the next modifications :)

On 11/12 I attended the HPDE hosted by SVT Cobra Club and Track Club USA at VIR. The first thing to say is that it was an awesome event, with some awesome folks. I couldn't have asked for a better first time on track in my own car. To preface my experience, I have raced multiple 24hrs of Lemons and Lucky Dog races in my family's 97 crown vic (Wilwood brakes, coilovers, the whole shebang). I have also driven my 3V in multiple autocross events as well as having completed the Ford Racing School in Charlotte. So not my first time on track, just my first time at VIR and in my own mustang. My 3V currently is set up as follows:

Engine:
- JLT series 3 intake
- Shorty headers -> x-pipe -> Magnaflow competition mufflers
- Lito tuned

Suspension:
- Ford K springs
- Worn out and previously raced B302 front struts
- KYB OEM rear struts (unknown age. They were on the car when I bought it in 2019)
- Steeda strut tower brace
- Steeda competition front sway bar
- Stock rear sway bar (will most likely stay that way or get a V6 bar)

Brakes:
- 4 Pot Brembo's w/ SS Lines
- Hawk HP+ pads (front only)
- completely stock rear brakes

Wheels/tires:
- 18x10 square setup
- Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar tires(220tw) 285/40/18 on all corners

Other:
- MGW Short throw

View attachment 81197
With all of that being said, here is how the day went!
I was in the intermediate run group based on my previous experience, which I was completely comfortable with. I knew going into this day with my 150k mile 3V that I would be spending a lot of time feeling out both the car and the track. My first two morning sessions were exactly that, slowly finding the limits of the tires and the brakes. Brake pads were something that I went back and forth about so. many. times. before I finally made a decision. I was between the Hawk HP+ and the EBC Bluestuff. I ultimately went with the HP+ because of the reviews I had seen in other places and the relatively high coefficient of friction (0.55) that it carried through its entire operating temp. The downside of these pads was that their operating temp range didn't go nearly as high as I would have liked (around 800F I believe), which definitely showed on track. Overall, I was happy with the brakes, jut left me longing a bit more for the carbotechs that we run on the aforementioned Crown Vic. I used Track Addict to track lap times for all of the sessions, but was only able to get GoPro footage during my last two sessions.

Best time for session 1 was a 2:32.8. It was very much an exploratory session of both the track and the capabilities of my lackluster setup. Session 2 improved to a 2:26.1 and would have bene down to 2:25 if not for a Miata and end of session coming together on my last lap around. Session 3 was cut short after 3 laps due to some issue that I still am unaware of, but after being parked in the middle of the S's for 10min, a full course black was displayed and we all treked back into the pit.

View attachment 81198

Session 4 was where it all came together. I had extra time and ran for around 45min (to make up for the shorted stint from session 3's accident). After a couple laps to get clear of traffic and get heat in the tires, I started to rack up faster and faster times. I got my 2:25, then 2:23.4, and then my fastest time of 2:22.8. I feel like my tires held out just for this lap, because afterwards they started to feel super greasy. Also, after getting this lap I was content for the day and happy to start cooling down, especially since my tires were no longer giving me the response I wanted. Unfortuantly, my GoPro died before recording my fastest lap, but here was the best one I recorded:

Before going out for this session, I noticed my clutch pedal was "clicking" or "chunking" a little bit when I hit the pedal. I looked under to find the cotter pin had fallen off and the eye hook piece attaching the pedal to the master cylinder was only half on and freely moving around. This is where it was super handy to have assorted zip ties nearby! With the zip tie in the groove instead of the cotter pin, the eye piece stayed in place and felt completely fine. That zip tie is still in place now as I type this a week later lol. Additionally, I noticed a grinding noise as I was going out for my last session. I assumed it was my rear brakes, and my pedal still felt firm and I had no problem stopping so I just went ahead and sent it. Sure enough, it was in fact my right rear brake rotor. Turns out that Advance Auto pads don't like the track too much...View attachment 81199


I was able to find a parts store on my way home and went ahead and got a rotor and new pads. Sure enough, the pad had been eaten through due to seized caliper pins and dug into the rotor. I was able to free one pin enough to put it together to get the rest of the way home, but not without making a little blood sacrifice. Pro-tip: don't punch brake caliper brackets. They will win everytime.

After doing a little post-track day inspection, I found that my driver side rear brakes were almost in similar condition. So that caliper bracket will be replaced as well.

My short list of things to be replaced/upgraded are:
- Shocks and struts as #1. I really want to do the Steeda pro comp shocks/struts after reading through Billy Johnson's write up. I don' have the budget to do insane coilovers or anything crazy. And since the Koni yellows recently went to ~$1000 compared to their former price of ~$700ish, the Steeda option looks much better, and Billy Johnson approved. I still drive the car on the road a few times a week and so the double duty shocks and struts are enticing.

- Better tires. I am interested in the Nitto NT01 tires as I have never seen anything bad about them and think they'd be great for the weekend warrior like myself.

- New rear diff. most likely the Eaton Tru-trac, again as recommended by Billy Johnson.

If you read this far, I really appreciate it! Please leave any recommendations and tips, especially on suspension! Thanks!

View attachment 81206
What an amazing weekend my man! I started tracking my first 5 weekends with the hawk hp+ and stock v6 rotors and they did ok. Then I went to the 4 pots dtc-60 for my last 2 events and there was no comparison. I have had zero issues with them, the 2 piston calipers with the hp+ would overheat after ~4 laps at MSR Houston, especially in the later events.

Thanks for showing the real life bruises! I recommend using the centric brake rotors that are posted in the front page of TMO page. They have served me well thus far!
 
5,947
7,249
A ton of info here..

and a posiible problem prevention here.
 
16
29
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
North Carolina
What an amazing weekend my man! I started tracking my first 5 weekends with the hawk hp+ and stock v6 rotors and they did ok. Then I went to the 4 pots dtc-60 for my last 2 events and there was no comparison. I have had zero issues with them, the 2 piston calipers with the hp+ would overheat after ~4 laps at MSR Houston, especially in the later events.

Thanks for showing the real life bruises! I recommend using the centric brake rotors that are posted in the front page of TMO page. They have served me well thus far!
Yeah, I was happy enough with them for their price point and what I am doing. I'll probably invest in brake cooling ducts before hopping up to another set of pads. I even added some NACA ducts to my Christmas list to build into my front bumper for said brake cooling lol. It'll probably be February before getting on track again. So I'd like for brake cooling, new shocks/struts, and I am probably going to make my own front splitter from some ABS plastic sheet. Not that I really need it at this time, but I am bored and want to try so why not. Better tires will be on the list as soon as the current ones are worn down. Unfortunately/fortunately, they were brand new when I bought these wheels. Someone was selling them for $400 in the paddock of VIR at an HPDE I went to watch at last year. So I have plenty of tire to burn through before looking into probably 305/30/18 Nitto NT01's. I think 305 will be a stretch on 10in wheels, but Nitto says they fit. Hopefully the thinner sidewall will help with flex.
 
16
29
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
North Carolina
A ton of info here..

and a posiible problem prevention here.
I have been a long-time stalker of TMO and only recently started posting and being active in the forums. I've seen you post and have looked through bits and pieces of your build thread before. I'll have to dive a little deeper in. Ideally, I'd love to turn this car into a full track car. Fabman's car is my dream for my 3V. I've got a long way to go though.
 
16
29
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
North Carolina
Nice talking to you at Winterfest 2023 this past weekend. You and your car seemed very capable on track. Good luck with your build!
Yessir!! I also got a pretty decent video of you doing some landscape work out in the field from when you spin out if you'd like it! I posted in the FB page if you're on there. But can send to you directly as well.
 
248
280
CA
I am making this as a sort of recap for myself after my first HPDE with my 06 GT. But I would love for anyone to read through and give input and suggestions, especially on the next modifications :)

On 11/12 I attended the HPDE hosted by SVT Cobra Club and Track Club USA at VIR. The first thing to say is that it was an awesome event, with some awesome folks. I couldn't have asked for a better first time on track in my own car. To preface my experience, I have raced multiple 24hrs of Lemons and Lucky Dog races in my family's 97 crown vic (Wilwood brakes, coilovers, the whole shebang). I have also driven my 3V in multiple autocross events as well as having completed the Ford Racing School in Charlotte. So not my first time on track, just my first time at VIR and in my own mustang. My 3V currently is set up as follows:

Engine:
- JLT series 3 intake
- Shorty headers -> x-pipe -> Magnaflow competition mufflers
- Lito tuned

Suspension:
- Ford K springs
- Worn out and previously raced B302 front struts
- KYB OEM rear struts (unknown age. They were on the car when I bought it in 2019)
- Steeda strut tower brace
- Steeda competition front sway bar
- Stock rear sway bar (will most likely stay that way or get a V6 bar)

Brakes:
- 4 Pot Brembo's w/ SS Lines
- Hawk HP+ pads (front only)
- completely stock rear brakes

Wheels/tires:
- 18x10 square setup
- Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar tires(220tw) 285/40/18 on all corners

Other:
- MGW Short throw

View attachment 81197
With all of that being said, here is how the day went!
I was in the intermediate run group based on my previous experience, which I was completely comfortable with. I knew going into this day with my 150k mile 3V that I would be spending a lot of time feeling out both the car and the track. My first two morning sessions were exactly that, slowly finding the limits of the tires and the brakes. Brake pads were something that I went back and forth about so. many. times. before I finally made a decision. I was between the Hawk HP+ and the EBC Bluestuff. I ultimately went with the HP+ because of the reviews I had seen in other places and the relatively high coefficient of friction (0.55) that it carried through its entire operating temp. The downside of these pads was that their operating temp range didn't go nearly as high as I would have liked (around 800F I believe), which definitely showed on track. Overall, I was happy with the brakes, jut left me longing a bit more for the carbotechs that we run on the aforementioned Crown Vic. I used Track Addict to track lap times for all of the sessions, but was only able to get GoPro footage during my last two sessions.

Best time for session 1 was a 2:32.8. It was very much an exploratory session of both the track and the capabilities of my lackluster setup. Session 2 improved to a 2:26.1 and would have bene down to 2:25 if not for a Miata and end of session coming together on my last lap around. Session 3 was cut short after 3 laps due to some issue that I still am unaware of, but after being parked in the middle of the S's for 10min, a full course black was displayed and we all treked back into the pit.

View attachment 81198

Session 4 was where it all came together. I had extra time and ran for around 45min (to make up for the shorted stint from session 3's accident). After a couple laps to get clear of traffic and get heat in the tires, I started to rack up faster and faster times. I got my 2:25, then 2:23.4, and then my fastest time of 2:22.8. I feel like my tires held out just for this lap, because afterwards they started to feel super greasy. Also, after getting this lap I was content for the day and happy to start cooling down, especially since my tires were no longer giving me the response I wanted. Unfortuantly, my GoPro died before recording my fastest lap, but here was the best one I recorded:

Before going out for this session, I noticed my clutch pedal was "clicking" or "chunking" a little bit when I hit the pedal. I looked under to find the cotter pin had fallen off and the eye hook piece attaching the pedal to the master cylinder was only half on and freely moving around. This is where it was super handy to have assorted zip ties nearby! With the zip tie in the groove instead of the cotter pin, the eye piece stayed in place and felt completely fine. That zip tie is still in place now as I type this a week later lol. Additionally, I noticed a grinding noise as I was going out for my last session. I assumed it was my rear brakes, and my pedal still felt firm and I had no problem stopping so I just went ahead and sent it. Sure enough, it was in fact my right rear brake rotor. Turns out that Advance Auto pads don't like the track too much...View attachment 81199


I was able to find a parts store on my way home and went ahead and got a rotor and new pads. Sure enough, the pad had been eaten through due to seized caliper pins and dug into the rotor. I was able to free one pin enough to put it together to get the rest of the way home, but not without making a little blood sacrifice. Pro-tip: don't punch brake caliper brackets. They will win everytime.

After doing a little post-track day inspection, I found that my driver side rear brakes were almost in similar condition. So that caliper bracket will be replaced as well.

My short list of things to be replaced/upgraded are:
- Shocks and struts as #1. I really want to do the Steeda pro comp shocks/struts after reading through Billy Johnson's write up. I don' have the budget to do insane coilovers or anything crazy. And since the Koni yellows recently went to ~$1000 compared to their former price of ~$700ish, the Steeda option looks much better, and Billy Johnson approved. I still drive the car on the road a few times a week and so the double duty shocks and struts are enticing.

- Better tires. I am interested in the Nitto NT01 tires as I have never seen anything bad about them and think they'd be great for the weekend warrior like myself.

- New rear diff. most likely the Eaton Tru-trac, again as recommended by Billy Johnson.

If you read this far, I really appreciate it! Please leave any recommendations and tips, especially on suspension! Thanks!

View attachment 81206
Great writeup and hello from a fellow 3v'er!

In regards to the mods you listed, what springs will you be running with the Steeda dampers? As you may know, if you put a more grippy tire on the car (ie, nt01), you'll need more spring rate to counteract the roll of the car. Vorschlag sells a very nice budget friendly kit that is built off of Bilstein dampers. Also consider Kenny Brown valved H&R coilovers for a "middle of the road" coilover. https://vorshlag-store.com/products/vorshlag-bilstein-streetpro-monotube-suspension-kit-s197-mustang

Me personally, I would skip the diff. When was the last time the OEM traction lok discs got replaced? The stock diff was able to keep up for me when I was running skinny tires, once I went to 18x11's, the car made too much grip and would one wheel peel the inside tire. It's a really expensive upgrade if you can't do the labor yourself, and on big sweeping tracks likely won't make you any faster.

NT01 is good for track only, but won't last long if driven on track and on the street. For a good all around tire, look to the "200tw endurance" tires in this article: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/track-tire-buyers-guide/

Given the brake fade you experienced, I take it you'll be changing to a higher temperature pad compound?
 
16
29
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
North Carolina
Great writeup and hello from a fellow 3v'er!

In regards to the mods you listed, what springs will you be running with the Steeda dampers? As you may know, if you put a more grippy tire on the car (ie, nt01), you'll need more spring rate to counteract the roll of the car. Vorschlag sells a very nice budget friendly kit that is built off of Bilstein dampers. Also consider Kenny Brown valved H&R coilovers for a "middle of the road" coilover. https://vorshlag-store.com/products/vorshlag-bilstein-streetpro-monotube-suspension-kit-s197-mustang

Me personally, I would skip the diff. When was the last time the OEM traction lok discs got replaced? The stock diff was able to keep up for me when I was running skinny tires, once I went to 18x11's, the car made too much grip and would one wheel peel the inside tire. It's a really expensive upgrade if you can't do the labor yourself, and on big sweeping tracks likely won't make you any faster.

NT01 is good for track only, but won't last long if driven on track and on the street. For a good all around tire, look to the "200tw endurance" tires in this article: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/track-tire-buyers-guide/

Given the brake fade you experienced, I take it you'll be changing to a higher temperature pad compound?
I was just about to do my follow-up write up for all of this later tonight since I just had my second day at VIR this past weekend. But I did get the Steeda struts since last event and kept my FRPP K springs on them. After this weekend I have realized that I can very easily out drive those springs and the shoulders of my tires are getting eaten up because of how soft they are. I've been enjoying replacing parts as I feel I can outdrive them, and so stiffer springs are #1 on the list of things to do before the next track day. I don't think I (nor my wallet) want to jump to coil overs next. I plan on getting the MM Track springs since those are F:340-360lb/in R:260-320lb/in, versus the cushy F:228/R:198ish of the FRPP K springs. Also open to any other stiffer spring recommendations. For the brakes, I could 100% outdrive those and burned through them in the first session this weekend. I ended up stopping by the pro shop between my sessions and buying Carbotech xp12's, swapped them during lunch, bedded them during parade laps, and then immediately dropped 2s on my fastest ever time that next session, which was a 2:20.9 (will be attaching the video with track addict overlay in my writeup). The tires have been pushed further down on the list as well. I currently have a square setup of 285/30/18 GY F1 Supercars (220tw). I can tell when they get greasy, but I want to really know I can out drive them before replacing them. And I have street and track wheels, so the NT01's won't make it on the street other than driving to and from the track.
 
248
280
CA
I was just about to do my follow-up write up for all of this later tonight since I just had my second day at VIR this past weekend. But I did get the Steeda struts since last event and kept my FRPP K springs on them. After this weekend I have realized that I can very easily out drive those springs and the shoulders of my tires are getting eaten up because of how soft they are. I've been enjoying replacing parts as I feel I can outdrive them, and so stiffer springs are #1 on the list of things to do before the next track day. I don't think I (nor my wallet) want to jump to coil overs next. I plan on getting the MM Track springs since those are F:340-360lb/in R:260-320lb/in, versus the cushy F:228/R:198ish of the FRPP K springs. Also open to any other stiffer spring recommendations. For the brakes, I could 100% outdrive those and burned through them in the first session this weekend. I ended up stopping by the pro shop between my sessions and buying Carbotech xp12's, swapped them during lunch, bedded them during parade laps, and then immediately dropped 2s on my fastest ever time that next session, which was a 2:20.9 (will be attaching the video with track addict overlay in my writeup). The tires have been pushed further down on the list as well. I currently have a square setup of 285/30/18 GY F1 Supercars (220tw). I can tell when they get greasy, but I want to really know I can out drive them before replacing them. And I have street and track wheels, so the NT01's won't make it on the street other than driving to and from the track.
All really great feedback to work with. What are your alignment settings? What sway bars?

The MM road and track springs are the ticket for a non coilover track setup, good find on those. Keep in mind you can also keep roll under control with sway bars. I was running the same FRPP K springs as you on 18x11 NTO1's, I had to install the thickest sway bars I could and ran lots of negative camber to keep tire wear under control. Body roll was still embarrassingly excessive. Good news on the brake pads. I've been a fan of G-LOC R16's up front.
 
16
29
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
North Carolina
All really great feedback to work with. What are your alignment settings? What sway bars?

The MM road and track springs are the ticket for a non coilover track setup, good find on those. Keep in mind you can also keep roll under control with sway bars. I was running the same FRPP K springs as you on 18x11 NTO1's, I had to install the thickest sway bars I could and ran lots of negative camber to keep tire wear under control. Body roll was still embarrassingly excessive. Good news on the brake pads. I've been a fan of G-LOC R16's up front.
I have MM C/C plates and camber bolts in the spindle. I ran camber this weekend at like -2.5/-2.8 and toe at 0. I have the Steeda competition sway bar up front on full stiff and stock rear sway bar since I'm on a square wheel/tire setup. Honestly, I feel like the car drives pretty neutrally. As long as I'm not overworking the tires, I don't really have any understeer. But "body roll was still embarrassingly excessive" is how I felt this past weekend for sure.
 

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