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Ford Racing hub assembly

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
4,325
2,972
Santiago, Chile
I suspect my front hubs are gone, I already have a new set of ARP studs on the old hubs. Is their any difference in between the stock and Ford racing hubs apart from the ARP hardware??

Or should I just rescue the ARP studs and insert them in stock (cheaper) Hubs?

These are the original Boss hubs, have lasted since 2013 with lots of track time so I guess its about time they went.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
4,325
2,972
Santiago, Chile
But I got the stud changing thing down to a science LoL, takes me about 10min! You are right though, I Should order a FR set from OPmustang as they are on sale (and in Florida)

At least I will have a lot of spare ARP studs...................
 
147
60
I just got a new set of FRPP hubs and noticed two new things about these latest renditions:
1. They are now made in CHINA!
2. The ARP (?) studs have a different coating on them from all ARP wheel studs that I have seen up until now.
These two changes in a very imprtant consumable component on my race car has me wondering about the quality of the bearing and the alloy the stud is made of.
Just sayin'.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
4,325
2,972
Santiago, Chile
bought the Ford racing complete hubs..... But turns out the original hubs were just fine... the rear differential bearings were shot, the bushings on the UCA and LCA were shot. Clunk from the front was worn sway bar bushings..... o_O
 
I just went down this road myself. I thought I was going to save myself a few $$ by buying hubs on rockauto and ARP studs separately. I picked up Timken hubs, thinking those were good name brand bearings and hubs (stamped with Made in Korea FWIW). The issue I ran into was once I pressed out the shorter studs that came on the hubs, the ARP studs were too small for the holes. They fell right in, with no press fit for the splines. Not wanting to deal with paying return shipping for everything, I had to go with plan "B" which was to TIG weld the back sides of the studs to the hub. I used a spare wheel and brake rotor to drop everything into, and tightened the lugs as best I could so all the studs were at least straight and centered. The end result is a hub that will work for me, but it took a lot more work than it needed to. Next hub replacement in 2 years will be the Ford Racing parts... lesson learned.
 
2,059
878
Bay Area
I just went down this road myself. I thought I was going to save myself a few $$ by buying hubs on rockauto and ARP studs separately. I picked up Timken hubs, thinking those were good name brand bearings and hubs (stamped with Made in Korea FWIW). The issue I ran into was once I pressed out the shorter studs that came on the hubs, the ARP studs were too small for the holes. They fell right in, with no press fit for the splines. Not wanting to deal with paying return shipping for everything, I had to go with plan "B" which was to TIG weld the back sides of the studs to the hub. I used a spare wheel and brake rotor to drop everything into, and tightened the lugs as best I could so all the studs were at least straight and centered. The end result is a hub that will work for me, but it took a lot more work than it needed to. Next hub replacement in 2 years will be the Ford Racing parts... lesson learned.


If you want I can sell you a like new set of Ford Racing hubs so you have them in the future or as a spare. Just saying
 

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