The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

Front Brake Cooling for the s197/Boss 302 - any bottom line recommendations?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

125
112
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Ann Arbor, MI
Ok, this post is making some assumptions, but in the interest of general practices here it goes:

Like the MGW shifter, I’m wondering if it’s possible to come up with an informal “consensus” on “the best” front brake cooling option for the s197? It seems easy for the s550 as the Vorshlag deflectors appear to be able to take the place of cooling ducts - wow. My reading of the research suggests that is not so for the s197. I’m thinking of HPDE’s and Auto-X.

So, what would those in the know recommend for reliable brake cooling upgrades on the s197; in my case I am sticking with stock 14” Brembos on my 2013 Boss, race pads for track days with centric premium rotors, and the usual wheel/camber plate upgrades.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,530
5,248
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
I would add a DOT4 brake fluid with a high temperature rating as well as ducts. If they are still on the car, remove the rear dust shields. 3" brake ducts are good. The mega track rats have changed to 4" I still run the 3" on my Boss.
 

carver

breaker of wrenches
445
598
ontario
I opted for open channel without ducting and fabed some DIY deflectors . Works great and nothing to get crushed. I reversed the horn so it's up out of they way on the driver side. The washer tank is kinda in the flow on the passenger side but I think air still flows just fine around it.. I'm convinced it flows way better than 3" ducts IMHO. It's not pretty but that's just my style !! Hah. Remove all backing plates and flush with Dot 4.

bossducts.jpgbossvent.jpgbossvent2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Vorshlag offers the brake deflector kit for the S197 as well, you just have to make/buy/install your own splitter ramps, or direct the feed from the Boss/CS lower valence fog light openings to them.

Vorshlag may say it's the best cooling method based on their data, versus ducts, but I think the general consensus is that you do have a front brake cooling solution installed. This is likely why Vorshlag continues to sell both options, since they know preferences and set-ups change depending on the individual. They were also running the fattest tires they could fit under the fenders, so their major concern was the duct tubing rubbing on turn-in and needing to be replaced often.

Beyond just cooling, to echo what TMSBOSS said, having good brake fluid that's up to the task is just, if not more, important (if not already done). People have also used titanium brake pad shims as a way to make sure the heat stays away from the fluid as much as possible and that might help save the piston seals as well.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
I would add a DOT4 brake fluid with a high temperature rating as well as ducts. If they are still on the car, remove the rear dust shields. 3" brake ducts are good. The mega track rats have changed to 4" I still run the 3" on my Boss.
👍Big fan of castrol SRF
 
125
112
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Ann Arbor, MI
Carver, that’s so cool if it actually works, and I believe you that it does! Nice job and thanks so much for the pictures, very helpful. Did you have to cut away at the inner wheel well liner (black plastic) much at all to have enough airflow or can you leave that as is?

Those diy deflectors put a big smile on my face as well, I’ll probably do something like that during my first season, lots of track days planned, and see if anything more is needed as I get some seat time.

This is the first I heard of the titanium shims for the brake pads, seems like any easy upgrade. Of course, yes, DOT 4 brake fluid is critical. Thanks to all those that chimed in, big help!
 
125
112
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Ann Arbor, MI
I wonder if anyone makes a smaller/shorter wiper fluid tank that could be used in place of the oem, that could be helpful but maybe overkill.
 

carver

breaker of wrenches
445
598
ontario
Carver, that’s so cool if it actually works, and I believe you that it does! Nice job and thanks so much for the pictures, very helpful. Did you have to cut away at the inner wheel well liner (black plastic) much at all to have enough airflow or can you leave that as is?

Those diy deflectors put a big smile on my face as well, I’ll probably do something like that during my first season, lots of track days planned, and see if anything more is needed as I get some seat time.

This is the first I heard of the titanium shims for the brake pads, seems like any easy upgrade. Of course, yes, DOT 4 brake fluid is critical. Thanks to all those that chimed in, big help!
Yes you will have to cut the plastic fender well. You can see my hack snip work in the picture. I think I did roughly 4x5 " cut out. Those big white plastic scoops are easy to trim to shape and don't touch the wheel even at full lock. The marks you see on the picture on the white plastic were already there LOL. I was thinking of redoing them in aluminum but they seem to be holding up just fine as is.
I have heard of cutting the washer tank down and plastic welding it to a smaller size but I'm to lazy... Hah. Not sure it will help that much.
 
125
112
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Ann Arbor, MI
Yes you will have to cut the plastic fender well. You can see my hack snip work in the picture. I think I did roughly 4x5 " cut out. Those big white plastic scoops are easy to trim to shape and don't touch the wheel even at full lock. The marks you see on the picture on the white plastic were already there LOL. I was thinking of redoing them in aluminum but they seem to be holding up just fine as is.
I have heard of cutting the washer tank down and plastic welding it to a smaller size but I'm to lazy... Hah. Not sure it will help that much.
Thanks for the additional info, seems like it will get the job done, and I love saving $$ whenever possible.
 
1,119
1,110
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
I am running the Vorshlag 3" ducts on my 2011 GT with the Boss/CS lower fascia. The 3" hoses fit the fog light openings perfectly. I have also removed the rear dust shields and run the titanium shims behind the front pads. I am considering switching to stainless pistons on the next rebuild of the 4 Piston Brembos to slow down heat transfer.
 
125
112
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Ann Arbor, MI
Ti Backing plate heat shields work great for that and keeping Dust boots from melting also
Do they make a brake duct backing plate in titanium? If not, do you just run the hose close to the shield/rotor?
 
1,289
1,113
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Philly Metro Area

They also have inlet ducts that mount behind the lower grille. Grille must be opened up in front of them. It's a good high pressure area. It also avoids any need to modify the windshield fluid bottle or horn.
 
125
112
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Ann Arbor, MI
I am running the Vorshlag 3" ducts on my 2011 GT with the Boss/CS lower fascia. The 3" hoses fit the fog light openings perfectly. I have also removed the rear dust shields and run the titanium shims behind the front pads. I am considering switching to stainless pistons on the next rebuild of the 4 Piston Brembos to slow down heat transfer.
Nice - do you run the hose into a duct backing plate or just leave It open and run it close to the rotor? Also, have you seen a need for a deflector to route/keep the air where you want it?
 
1,119
1,110
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
Nice - do you run the hose into a duct backing plate or just leave It open and run it close to the rotor? Also, have you seen a need for a deflector to route/keep the air where you want it?
Let me clarify. I swapped out the GT lower fascia for the one from the Boss/CS since the fog light openings were sized for 3" brake cooling hoses, instead of cutting openings in the lower fascia for air inlets. I ran 3" hoses from the fog log openings on the Boss/CS lower fascia to Vorshlag 3" brake duct backing plates. The Vorshlag plates are stainless steel with oval outlets into the rotor hat. They are a quality piece and Vorshlag is a site sponsor. See link below

 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Top