GT350 P0010 Camshaft sensor

[TMSBOSS]

An engine harness is around $200.00 from Ford. You could pull one out and install the replacement on a Saturday. Take LOTS of pictures before you start pulling the harness.

 

[NZGUL]

An engine harness is around $200.00 from Ford. You could pull one out and install the replacement on a Saturday. Take LOTS of pictures before you start pulling the harness.

 

[NZGUL]

An engine harness is around $200.00 from Ford. You could pull one out and install the replacement on a Saturday. Take LOTS of pictures before you start pulling the harness.

I’ll call Ford Performance tomorrow for part number.
What about the timing chain?

 

[RES_22]

Or ask@ARIZONAboss or @Captaindistraction about the best place to go.

They must know someone who can sling a Fluke dvm.

 

[TMSBOSS]

What about the timing chain?

Not my first choice. Will take the whole weekend.

 

[NZGUL]

Or ask@ARIZONAboss or @Captaindistraction about the best place to go.

They must know someone who can sling a Fluke dvm.

Yes thats a good idea

 

[NZGUL]

$100 it's still the electrical harness

Do you happen to know the wiring harness part number(s)?

 

[honeybadger]

Do you happen to know the wiring harness part number(s)?

This is the one I bought

https://parts.autonationfordwhitebe...yMDE3JnQ9c2hlbGJ5LWd0MzUwJmU9NS0ybC12OC1nYXM=

Even though the diagnostic test was good, in my experience, the harness/plug issues are very intermittent. It took 3 different attempts for me to isolate it correctly my first run through. So if your shop isn't familiar with the Mustang harness specifically (and it's issues), I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't catch it.

 

[NZGUL]

This is the one I bought

https://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/oem-parts/ford-engine-harness-gu5z12a581su?c=Zz1lbGVjdHJpY2FsJnM9d2lyaW5nLWhhcm5lc3MmbD00Jm49QXNzZW1ibGllcyBQYWdlJmE9Zm9yZCZvPW11c3RhbmcmeT0yMDE3JnQ9c2hlbGJ5LWd0MzUwJmU9NS0ybC12OC1nYXM=

Even though the diagnostic test was good, in my experience, the harness/plug issues are very intermittent. It took 3 different attempts for me to isolate it correctly my first run through. So if your shop isn't familiar with the Mustang harness specifically (and it's issues), I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't catch it.

Awesome thanks! Ya I'm gonna email them now

 

[honeybadger]

Awesome thanks! Ya I'm gonna email them now

As mentioned earlier, it's pretty easy to do on a Saturday morning - remove the intake and you can get it done in an hour or so.

 

[TMSBOSS]

As mentioned earlier, it's pretty easy to do on a Saturday morning - remove the intake and you can get it done in an hour or so.

Its more intimidating than challenging. Once you dive in, take pics, its fairly easy.

 

[NZGUL]

Its more intimidating than challenging. Once you dive in, take pics, its fairly easy.

Thanks guys found on South Florida Ford Parts for under $200! Wish me luck

 

[TMSBOSS]

$192.00...if I remember correctly.

Good Luck. Take your time and take plenty of pics. Someone posted a ground attached to a cam cover stud a while back. Another eagle eyed member saw it and pointed out the easy mistake. Love This Site!!

I had my intake off a few months back. I was installing the oil cross over lines. I bumper the cylinder head temp sensor plug replacing the intake. One pin was connected the other not. That really lit up my dash....3 or 4 codes. So glad I found it quickly. So If you do get new code when you put her back together, don't worry. Its highly likely its a connection. Recheck all connectors.

 

[NZGUL]

$192.00...if I remember correctly.

Good Luck. Take your time and take plenty of pics. Someone posted a ground attached to a cam cover stud a while back. Another eagle eyed member saw it and pointed out the easy mistake. Love This Site!!

I had my intake off a few months back. I was installing the oil cross over lines. I bumper the cylinder head temp sensor plug replacing the intake. One pin was connected the other not. That really lit up my dash....3 or 4 codes. So glad I found it quickly. So If you do get new code when you put her back together, don't worry. Its highly likely its a connection. Recheck all connectors.

Looks to be on national back order. I’ll keep searching

 

[TMSBOSS]

Good luck

 

[Jbg0137]

I"ll preface this by saying maybe on Saturday I wasn't reading the diagnostic tool to its full potential... Replaced the plugs today WPT1506. Fired up the car, plugged in tool, and it threw
1.CAMSHAFT POSITION ACCUATOR CIRCUIT/OPEN "A"P0010,"B"P0013, "A"P0020, "B"P0023
2. O2 SENSOR HEAT CIRCUIT PO135, PO155
3.EVAPORATIVE EMISION SYSTEM PURGE CONTROL VALVE "A" CIRCUIT
4. EVAPORATIVE EMISION SYSTEM VENT CONTROL CIRCUIT P0446
Sorry that was a mouthful... Any Ideas?

This happened to me and it turned out to be a blow fuse#40

 

[NZGUL]

This happened to me and it turned out to be a blow fuse#40

View attachment 73576

I think I saw your post about this, I'll have to check when I get the car back tomorrow, that sure looks pretty close to what's happened to me! Thanks

 

[NZGUL]

This happened to me and it turned out to be a blow fuse#40

View attachment 73576

Just got the car back 26 days later...Checked #40 and it was toast! So here's hoping that was part of it! I do feel like I saw your post about this, but that was back in January so I don't remember if I changed it then or not. The codes didn't go away on their own however, I did erase the tune and re load it, after that everything cleared, took for a 10 minute drive and no new codes. Also the "chop" from the exhaust went away, but I can't be sure because I forgot what the car sounded like as its been like 60 days since all this happened. So who knows if that's truly it or not. I also replaced the battery (3.5yo), as when I got to the shop the car was dead. I'll take it for a longer drive this weekend. I'm more than likely gonna let the other shop diag. it later next week just to be sure. The engine wiring harness is also backordered so this may be all I can do for now:
1.New solenoids and pig-tails
2.New Battery
3. New Fuse 20A Bay 40
4.

 

[NZGUL]

Just got the car back 26 days later...Checked #40 and it was toast! So here's hoping that was part of it! I do feel like I saw your post about this, but that was back in January so I don't remember if I changed it then or not. The codes didn't go away on their own however, I did erase the tune and re load it, after that everything cleared, took for a 10 minute drive and no new codes. Also the "chop" from the exhaust went away, but I can't be sure because I forgot what the car sounded like as its been like 60 days since all this happened. So who knows if that's truly it or not. I also replaced the battery (3.5yo), as when I got to the shop the car was dead. I'll take it for a longer drive this weekend. I'm more than likely gonna let the other shop diag. it later next week just to be sure. The engine wiring harness is also backordered so this may be all I can do for now:
1.New solenoids and pig-tails
2.New Battery
3. New Fuse 20A Bay 40
4.

***Update*** so after driving the car for around 100miles no new CEL’s. Took the car down to Voodoo Performance here in Phoenix metro and they also didn’t see anything weird. Said to do the 12v test on the solenoids and see if I could determine one was bad. Sure enough the pins on 3 of 4 moved freely with gravity. The one solenoid was stuck and would only protrude when I attached 12v. When I again applied the voltage it sunk back in and would not leave that position without the 12v…. Thanks to everybody that contributed to the conversation I hope this can in turn help another enthusiast As for the 20A fuse, who knows I have 4-20min sessions on Saturday

 

[MustangMike17]

What solenoids? I’m having this exact issue and what 12v test. Sorry I am new thanks