Help me pick a fire suppression system (yes i read Mad Hatters thread)

[twistedneck]

I need a system that is for more of a factory weekend warrior car than Mad Hatter, since i dont have a fuel cell or anything like that. i want to be protected if my oil cooler lines fail and hit the headers. I also wanted to see what blacksheep-1 had to say about it. These are all i can find that ship same week. I have no desire for any specific system or type. i dont yet have a fire suit or anything like that (just sparco seats!). Many thanks!

(H) 10lb Automatic / Manual FE-36 Fire Suppression System | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

This Automatic/Manual FE-36 Fire Suppression System is legal in SCCA. FE-36 is the replacement for Halon and has zero ozone depletion. The system can be activated manually or automatically.

www.pegasusautoracing.com

Stroud Safety 9352 Stroud Safety Fire Suppression Systems | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Stroud Safety Fire Suppression Systems with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fire Suppression Systems at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Safecraft LT10JAA Safecraft LT Series Fire Protection Systems | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Safecraft LT Series Fire Protection Systems with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fire Suppression Systems at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Lifeline 10lb Fire Suppression System - Automatic Activation

Lifeline 10lb Fire Suppression System - Automatic Activation

www.cortexracing.com

 

[blacksheep-1]

I would highly recoemend something that useas AFFF or ARAFFF, ( the first is for 90% of the cars, the second is for those using methanol) The problem with halon is that it does put the fire out, but it does not do anything to control the vapors that can lead to reignition, the dry powder, does put the fire out BUT... it also covers everything with a corrosive powder which is a bad thing if you can't wash it off right away. AFFF is a foam that puts the fire out and leaves a blanket to prevent reignition, it is also (pretty much) non corrosive. I would use an AFFF unit for the car and keep a dry powder handy for the other guy involved.
You will want one that is manually activated, also AFFF has been found to possibly cause cancer (I've been swimming in the stuff, unfortunately) but it will be replaced with a similar product, it just takes some time.
This system seems to be a decent one..

Lifeline Zero 2020 5lb FIA Fire Suppression System - ABF Foam

Lifeline Zero 2020 5lb 3 Liter FIA Fire Suppression System - ABF Foam Smaller and lighter design with increased levels of safety compared to competitors.

augustamotorsports.biz

You don't really need 5 outputs, one or 2 in the engine compartment and one on the fuel tanks should do it, remember when you trigger it, you dump the whole bottle whether its going on the fire, or not. I had a budget system on my car, that was not FIA approved, but it was awesome, you could refill the bottle at home, but I can no longer find it.
hope this helps.

 

[twistedneck]

I would highly recoemend something that useas AFFF or ARAFFF, ( the first is for 90% of the cars, the second is for those using methanol) The problem with halon is that it does put the fire out, but it does not do anything to control the vapors that can lead to reignition, the dry powder, does put the fire out BUT... it also covers everything with a corrosive powder which is a bad thing if you can't wash it off right away. AFFF is a foam that puts the fire out and leaves a blanket to prevent reignition, it is also (pretty much) non corrosive. I would use an AFFF unit for the car and keep a dry powder handy for the other guy involved.
You will want one that is manually activated, also AFFF has been found to possibly cause cancer (I've been swimming in the stuff, unfortunately) but it will be replaced with a similar product, it just takes some time.
This system seems to be a decent one..

Lifeline Zero 2020 5lb FIA Fire Suppression System - ABF Foam

Lifeline Zero 2020 5lb 3 Liter FIA Fire Suppression System - ABF Foam Smaller and lighter design with increased levels of safety compared to competitors.

augustamotorsports.biz

You don't really need 5 outputs, one or 2 in the engine compartment and one on the fuel tanks should do it, remember when you trigger it, you dump the whole bottle whether its going on the fire, or not. I had a budget system on my car, that was not FIA approved, but it was awesome, you could refill the bottle at home, but I can no longer find it.
hope this helps.

thanks blacksheep 1 i'll get that one.. however the guys at the track said i should get a 10lb bottle, i wonder if they offer a 10lb system of same setup?

 

[TA28]

Agree no need for 5 ports but, There should always be nosil in driver area.
It's main purpose is to give driver time to get out and away from fire.

 

[blacksheep-1]

Agree no need for 5 ports but, There should always be nosil in driver area.
It's main purpose is to give driver time to get out and away from fire.

In most cases I would agree with you but on an HPDE car, not so much, like I said, when you pull the handle, you dump the entire bottle, the chance of a fire starting in the passenger compartment is pretty remote, and you still have the dry powder hand held.

 

[TA28]

This is 1 of rehagen / khor old cars .3 nosils 1 engine 1 driver compartment 1 fuel cell.
Sparco systems.
The blue fitting is nosil right side of steering wheel.
As blacksheep said it's all or nothing when you pull that handle.

 

[blacksheep-1]

This is 1 of rehagen / khor old cars .3 nosils 1 engine 1 driver compartment 1 fuel cell.
Sparco systems.
The blue fitting is nosil right side of steering wheel.
As blacksheep said it's all or nothing when you pull that handle.

View attachment 86566

View attachment 86567

View attachment 86568

View attachment 86569

They are still that way, the sanctioning body requires a specific layout, one of which is on the driver.
That car also has a cell, if you are depending on stock tanks ( like SCCA T3 cars) I would put 2 of the nozzles through the floor that access the fuel pumps, and find a better way to cover the holes besides just a rubber boot.
In real life, there is a mandatory steel bulkhead between the fuel tank/ cell and the interior, but it can still get compromised on a big hit.