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SN95 LS3 Pony Build Thread Profile - SN95 Mustangs

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PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
Started mocking up the Racepak IQ3s. Keeping the factory gauge cluster would have been tricky. The 99-up cars used a canbus network that needed the factory ecu to work. I could have used an older gauge cluster and ran double sensors in the motor(one for the Holley, one for the cluster). Plus, I just think the Racepak looks badass and it's plug and play with the Holley.
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Subframe connectors and torque arm came in from Maximum Motorsports.
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FINALLY got the bumper painted
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I used a MGW shifter with brackets made by Hawk's Third Gen.
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PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
Next on the agenda was to get the Maximum Motorsports panhard bar installed along with the coilovers.
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Got the heads back from my friend Mike at Axiom Race Engines with a fresh valve job and he had hand blended all the bowls.
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Assembled with some new PAC springs from Brian Tooley.
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Now the heads could go on the car. Starting to look like something now.
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Upgraded from the Steeda caster/camber plates to Maximum Motorsports. The Steeda plates only mount using the 3 factory holes. There's nothing wrong with that if you have factory springs and struts but since I'm swapping to coilovers the weight of the vehicle will now be supported by the camber plate. The Maximum Motorsports plates add a 4th hole to prevent them from deflecting.
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Now I could install the front coilovers. These are Koni single adjustables
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Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,425
8,352
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
I have a feeling you are going to become fast friends with Fabman, ha!! So is it a Camstang or a Mustaro, enquiring minds want to know ,ha. Fun build and thanks for taking the time to post !
 

PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
Started building the exhaust, 3" mandrel bent stainless steel with a x-pipe that I made and Borla ProXS mufflers. I like to use pre-made bends and cut them up and weld them together. Eventually I'd like to extend it all the way out the back and may have to to be legal for SCCA Time Trials but this worked at the time.
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Starting to get all the little things checked off the list so I can start this up. Lokar throttle cable hooked up, radiator mounted, coolant hoses installed, and coolant filled.
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To mount the radiator I just bent up a piece of 14ga steel to clamp the top of the radiator to the core support. There is basically a mirror image of this on the bottom side that the radiator is sitting in and bolted through the factory mounts.
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4" intake made out of stainless because that's what we had laying around. The filter is mounted inside the fender to keep it away from the heat.
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Making a startup tune.
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After getting it started and smoothing out the idle a little bit.
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PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
Roll bar construction out of 1.75" .120 DOM
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New driveshaft from PST so this thing can move under it's own power.
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Getting an alignment with all the new suspension parts.
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Made 482whp/443tq on 93 pump gas. I believe with a different cam it would make 500whp. My cam was originally spec'd for a 4.8 build before I got the LS3, I used it because I already had it.
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PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
This was the day before the CAM Challenge in Mineral Wells. Later that night after the dyno my RAM slave cylinder exploded. :(

The McCloud conversion was also leaking internally. I still don't know exactly why but it left me stranded with no clutch. I ended up getting the car started in gear and blew through several lights and stop signs on the way home. I ditched the whole setup and went with a Wilwood master cylinder and factory GM slave cylinder.
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This is the linkage I made to make this work. I went through a couple versions of this to get the geometry worked out.
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The current version gets rid of all the side loading on the push rod and makes it a straight shot. It's been in the car now for 3 years.
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Finally got to start driving this beast. This is my first autocross with the LS3. With more tire this is going to be a really fast car.
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Some pictures of it cleaned up. A hobby of mine is photography. I'm a Nikon guy.
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PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
One beautiful Saturday morning after Cars & Coffee I was out cruising around when all of a sudden a '03 Cobra pulled next to me a stoplight. We both gave an understood nod and when it turned green we were both off. I didn't have the greatest start but once I hit third gear the Cobra rapidly disappeared from my mirror until shiznit went south. Parts of my transmission started scattering all over the road and smoke filled the car. Ooops.
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Cobra owner was super cool. He had a front row seat to the show so he pulled over and stayed with me until the tow truck showed up. Said his car was FBO with a ported blower.
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Once I got the car home I started to get an idea on the extent of the damage.
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Pulled the trans out to find even more damage than I thought.
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While saving for a new transmission I addressed the rear brakes. The rotors for the Roush rear brakes were no longer available so I bought some new Cobra calipers along with some Baer Eradispeed 13" rotors and my old faithful, Hawk HP+ pads.
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New (used) transmission from LKQ $1800 later...
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I don't know if you've ever put in a 130 lb transmission before while laying on your back on the ground with no transmission jack but let me warn you it isn't fun. I made a makeshift trans jack to help no crush my face.
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During assembly I noticed that the weld on the driveshaft was cracked. I sent this back to PST to be fixed and rebalanced under warranty. This driveshaft was rated at 1000hp and I'm making half that. They fixed it, no questions asked.
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PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
Version 2.0 of my transmission mount. This time a used a factory rubber mount for the TR-6060.
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Driveshaft back from PST
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The car shook so violently when the trans came apart that it caused this. Also loosened all the bolts on the front of the motor.
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I got offered a job back in Missouri closer to family. Drove the car from Houston to Kansas City (750 miles) with no issues.
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A stop in Paris, TX for the night.
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I could not stand the squealing and lack of drivability of the ACT clutch anymore so for my power level decided a stock LS3/LS7 clutch would be just fine.
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Also took this opportunity to fab up a new trans mount that ties into the subframe connectors. The shop I was working at had a CNC plasma table so I was able to make a pretty nice one that somewhat mimicked the torque arm mount. I forgot to take a picture at the time but this is the mount with the next transmission I use. We're not to that part of the story yet.
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I had the chance to weigh the car again. First time since the motor/trans swap. Also added the torque arm and roll bar.
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Installed a passenger seat out of a 2013 GT. When I have $1000 bucks to blow I'll get another Sparco. The matching drivier seat to this is on my sim rig.
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Getting ready for first autocross in Missouri.
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PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
My first event in Kansas City Region I got my butt handed to me. 9th place out of 13 cars in CAM-C. I needed more seat time in the car and the 275 Federal's just can't keep pace with 315 Rivals. Who knew...
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The next event was the annual Solo School. I made about 4 runs before my slave cylinder died and I lost my clutch.
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At this point I was done messing with this trans and decided to go a different route. The TR-6060 came out and got sold.
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I got a new set of wheels that I never used and ended up selling almost immediately. These are Cosmis Racing S5R's in 18x10.5. With "Racing" in the name and around the same price as Enkei, Forgestar, Konig, etc. you would expect a decent wheel. Instead they are just a cheap Chinese cast wheels and weigh 29lbs each. Look nice though.
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After pulling the transmission the car had to sit outside through a midwest winter while I collected parts for another new transmission. My '79 C10 was occupying my workspace.
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On nice days I worked on stripping more weight out of the car. I went through the interior wiring harness and stripped everything I didn't need. Someday I might completely remove the factory harness and make a new one with the bare minimum. There are still things I don't need in here.
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PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
I was previously using a Tremec TR-6060 from a 2010 Camaro. This is a great transmission. Internally it is the same as a T56 Magnum. It's downfall is that it uses a fixed yoke instead of a slip yoke because the Camaro has IRS and the driveshaft never moves from it's fixed position. This causes all kinds of problems with a solid axle car because the the axle is constantly moving up and down and thus causes the driveshaft to need to change length. As you know the driveshaft doesn't really change length(though it can), instead it uses a slip yoke in the transmission so the driveshaft can move in and out to make up for these variations. Not only that but this is a very heavy and from the factory it has issues with slave cylinders. I'm done with this trans. I initially wanted to buy a T56 Magnum or TKO, these are both good options but after everything I'd be looking at $4k+ That's a hard pill to swallow.



My solution; A company called FABBot started making adapters to use an Aisen AR5 transmission behind a LS using a slightly modified 4L60 bellhousing. This is the transmission that comes in a Chevrolet Colorado along with slightly different versions that were used in the Saturn Sky and Pontiac Solstice. When Chuck Mallet built his LS2 swapped Pontiac Solstice's, he kept this transmission in the car and they did just fine. I probably wouldn't throw big sticky drag slicks on the car and start dumping the clutch from 6k but I think for my purpose with this car and the relatively light weight it will do just fine.
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I opted for the powdercoated bellhousing that is already modified by Fabbot.
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This trans uses a standard GM 27 spline output shaft and same transmission mount as a TH-350 or 700R4
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Here is the trans ready to go in the car. The clutch lines run somewhat close to the header so I used this black insulated silicone sleeve from DEI to keep the fluid from getting hot. This setup uses a stock Colorado slave cylinder. I will replace the shifter assembly later.
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I had a new driveshaft made by Precision Shaft Technologies(PST), this is the same company I used for my old driveshaft. I talked to The Driveshaft Shop and they didn't seem like they wanted my business so I went elsewhere.
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I had the to move my transmission mount forward a couple inches because this transmission is much shorter than the 6 speed. I cut the mounting tabs off my subframe connectors, made new tabs, and moved the whole thing forward a couple inches.
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PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
Since the new transmission doesn't have provisions for a cooler I repurposed my old trans cooler to be my new power steering cooler.
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Because I had to move the transmission crossmember forward it now interfered with the exhaust. I took this as an opportunity to add in some flex joints. This is something I had wanted to do for awhile and was just in too much of a time crunch to do it when I originally built the exhaust.
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I also notched the tops of the tubes to make sure there was plenty of clearance around the crossmember and give maximum ground clearance. I didn't wanted it to rattle or hit on the crossmember because that little shiznit drives me nuts.
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Installed back on the car.
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While all this was going on I ended up getting a pretty good deal on a mostly complete black interior. I can't stand the tan and have hated it since day one.
I ordered some new carpet from RockAuto to give it that new car look, lol.
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With the seats back in it. I'll figure out something to do with the area around the shifter at some point but the center console isn't going back in.
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The fans on the oil cooler and now power steering cooler were mounted but never wired up. I didn't want to just mount relays on the fender or something because I think that looks like crap. I ordered a bare fuse box off Amazon and wired all my fans into this. The main radiator fan, oil cooler fan, and power steering cooler fan. They are all controlled by the Holley. This is just with the main power wires connected. There is a 8ga cable that runs to a power stud where my main battery cable runs through the floor to the starter. This should carry plenty of juice for anything I ever want to run off this fuse box.
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Completely pinned
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3 fuses, one for each fan. 1 relay for each aux fan and the main radiator fan is split between two relays.
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PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
Mounted on the fender and wired up to the fans and the Holley. For the record, that weld on the intake was not me.
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At this point the car is finally together and drivable for the first time in 5 months.
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After driving it a couple times I discover the new transmission doesn't really like my 4.10 gears. 1st gear is 100% useless and 5th gear just isn't tall enough for any highway driving.
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So I pulled the 4.10's and put some 3.55's in after spending way too much time on the gear ratio calculator.
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I got a set of stock GT side skirts off of the same parts car I got the interior from. I thought the Roush side skirts looked pretty out of place without the side exhaust to go with them. Side exhaust wasn't a real option because of my full length subframe connectors, it's likely possible but not a route I wanted to pursue.
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The problem is that the side skirts were black and needed painted to match the car. The problem with that is that not only did they need paint but so did several other parts of the car. The Laser Red was more like Laser Pink. I'm just not the type of person to drop $5k on a paint job, especially on a car that see's track time and could be wadded up into a wall at any moment.

I started looking at other options. I'm not a fan of plastidip. I don't have the facilities or knowledge to paint it myself. The last real option was a vinyl wrap. I started looking around and ended up getting a quote for $2900 to do the car. Thanks but no thanks. I watched about 6 Youtube videos and decided to give it a shot myself. How hard can it be right?

I started by ordering just a small piece to try it out and see how it looked. I went with red because I thought it might help hide small imperfections since the car was already red. This was my first try wrapping anything ever.
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I was incredibly impressed with how this looks. Most of the wraps I had seen were weird matte or color changing so it never really hit my radar but this was awesome. It honestly just looks like paint. I decided to go ahead and do the whole car except that the red didn't really match the paint at all and I never like red to begin with. I determined that if I was going to do all that work that I was going with a color I liked...
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PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
After I decided on the color for the wrap I went ahead and ordered another set of wheels. The Cosmis Racing wheels I previously bought are just crap Chinese cast wheels. They weighed 29lbs each!! I sold them and went with some Konig Dekagrams. These are a flow formed wheel, size 18x10.5 +18 and only 21lbs each. Some Forgestars or Enkei's were also an option but it seems like EVERYONE has those.
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Test fit. The front wheel lip is between coils on the spring on the inside. A smaller spacer should fix this.
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Once the wheels showed up I needed some nice sticky rubber to stuff them into. There are only 3 competitive options in a 200tw tire for autocross. BFGoodrich Rivals, Bridgestone RE-71R's, and option 3; Yokohama A052's.
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These are 295/35-18's and look right at home on the 10.5" wheels.
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Not only did I gain over an inch of width over the 275/35-18's on 9.5" wheels, I lost 6lbs per corner.
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PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
Bonus; with the correct offset wheels I lost another 5lbs from the rear by getting rid of the bolt on spacers.
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I did have to make a little bit more room to fit that big of a tire on the front without looking like a brodozer. I didn't want to run a spacer if possible. Pretty simple solution. I swapped to a shorter coilover spring. No other changes, the fender aren't even rolled. They do rub the sway bar at full lock but so did the 275's so not a big deal to me. I never go to full lock on the track anyway.
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Here you can clearly see how the shorter spring allowed the necessary clearance.
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Going from a 12" Summit Racing brand spring to a 8" Eibach spring dropped some more weight off the front of the car
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With the wheels squared away it was time to get back to the wrap.
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PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
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The wrap went pretty smooth until I ran out of vinyl. The vinyl I was using was Vivvid brand that I purchased through Amazon so I just hopped online and clicked "order again".
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Oops. The color I originally bought was called "Gloss Dark Grey". I thought it looked kind of light to be called "Dark Grey" but other people had mentioned something similiar in the reviews so I liked it enough I went ahead and used it. This time when I ordered more it actually looked like "Gloss Dark Grey" and was labeled as such. Now I had to figure out what color was actually on the car so I could get more. Amazon customer service was completely useless partly because they just told me to order more of the one I bought before *eyeroll*, and partly because their customer service is very lacking in the English speaking department.

I sent Vivvid an email and posted something on Instagram about the situation. This was on Sunday. 7am Monday morning THEY CONTACTED ME! I guess someone in their social media department had seen my post and forwarded it up to the appropriate people before they even got my email. They asked for a couple pictures so they could match the color. They had it figured out by that afternoon and a roll of the correct color was sent out at no cost to me. Very impressed with that customer service.
With the new roll of vinyl I had enough to get the car finished up.

Here are pics from a little photoshoot I did right after finishing the car.
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No poke with a 295 on the front, according to the internet you can't do this.
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PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
A little video walk-around showing the wrap. It honestly looks like paint, most people don't even know.
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Now that the car was back together it was finally time to get back on the track. It had been almost a year since the last time I ran the car. But, sometimes no matter how ready you think you are, the universe has other plans.

I was signed up to run autocross with Kansas City Region but the week before the car starts running like crap and I notice the O2 sensor had stopped working. I ordered a new sensor that arrived just in time for the event. It didn't work either. Not wanting to risk hurting the car and not wanting to waste the money I had already paid, I ran my brand new Ford Fusion that had just gone over 1000 miles.
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It didn't do too bad either!
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I started talking to Holley about the issue I was having with my HP. They sent me another new oxygen sensor that also did not help. Holley ended up sending me a loaner ECU to take that out of the equation. With the loaner ECU the problem was fixed immediately. All the "bad" 02 sensors worked too. The problem was in the ECU. I sent it in so they could test it. After bench testing they claim that it worked fine and the 02 sensor read correctly. I got it back and tried it in the car, same E36 M3. After going back and forth with Holley for the next couple weeks they tell me that there is nothing they can(are willing) to do because my HP was out of warranty but they offered me a small discount on a new one. A $1300 dollar ecu isn't something I expected to have to replace after 2 years.
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My ECU still worked completely fine other than the O2 sensor driver had failed. This meant I couldn't use closed loop, something the Holley is very good at. I didn't feel like dishing out another grand for a new ecu so I decided to improvise. At this point I still had the loaner ecu so I put a secondary wideband in the car and fed the signal into the Holley so I could at least monitor my AFR's. I had this older AEM wideband that I was using in my '79 C10 that was just sitting around.
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At some point I lost the backing plate. Not a problem, I have a 3d printer so I drew a new one up in Fusion 360 and hit print. VOILE!
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Now that I can monitor AFR's and be sure I'm not going to hurt the car, I double checked my tune and got the car ready for the next event.
I had pre-ordered one of these rear spoilers from Carter's Customs, we'll come back to this.
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I got the car loaded on my new trailer for the first time and was ready to go. While the car is street legal, the place we run at is 1hr 30min away. The car will make it there just fine, but like last time when the slave cylinder resigned, getting home can be an issue. Plus it saves my tires.
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Here is some of my local competition.
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The car performed great! I took 2nd place in CAM-C behind Keith and placed #15 overall out of 117 cars. Had to shake a little rust out after not driving the car for over a year at this point but it has alot more left in it.
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PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
This event I placed 2nd in CAM-C and 10th RAW out of 104 cars.
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This one was 1st in CAM-C and 13th out of 98 cars.
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This event I remember pretty well. There was a big jump right in the middle of the long straight and after the jump I kept hearing a loud "tink" sound. Like metal to metal. The first time it happened I just stopped on track because I was sure I broke something. I couldn't figure it out and eventually came to the conclusion it was one of the coilovers springs popping back into place after becoming unseated over the jump. I ended up DNF'ing on 3 of my 5 runs and never really recovered. Ended up in 3rd for CAM-C and 13 of 98 overall.
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I took a trip out to Kansas for an event called the Lake Garnett Grand Prix Revival. This is a pretty cool event. They have a ton of vintage race cars and shut down public streets to have exhibition races around the lake. I didn't enter for any of the track events this time but I did enter the autocross.
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I ended up in 2nd in my class and 2nd overall. I was the fastest car there that ran on gasoline... I got beat by a Tesla
:(

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