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Mechanic Glove Recommendations

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cholmes1

400lb Gorilla
350
216
Denver, CO
Anyone have any mechanic gloves they recommend? Latex/nitrile gloves are not working for me (hand sweat, tearing, etc.)

I would like good finger dexterity (do not need touchscreen function), good heat protection for brake work, and ideally some reasonable abrasion/impact resistance

All websites reviews or recommendations are clearly compensated. Looking for what TMO members use
 

xr7

TMO Addict?
718
840
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Minnesota
Anyone have any mechanic gloves they recommend? Latex/nitrile gloves are not working for me (hand sweat, tearing, etc.)

I would like good finger dexterity (do not need touchscreen function), good heat protection for brake work, and ideally some reasonable abrasion/impact resistance

All websites reviews or recommendations are clearly compensated. Looking for what TMO members use
I always had multiple types of gloves that I used over my career spinning wrenches. Leather and welding gloves for handling hot stuff and heavy sharp stuff. Jersey gloves for impact gun and air chisel work. Breathable back with grippy finger surfaces. Nytril/latex/nylon for dexterity work if you needed to keep stuff of your hands. Lots of bare hand work because nothing works like bare fingers. Lastly I generally bought the cheaper stuff because your going to wreck them anyway and then your not pissed that you ruined a pair of gloves. The best gloves are for welding only, driving, shoveling snow, motorcycles and snowmobiles, and walking the dogs in Minnesota.
 
Last edited:
1,119
1,726
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Huntsville, AL

Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
1,000
1,304
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Connecticut
For something stronger than the thin nitrile gloves, I like to use rubber-coated cotton gloves. Probably don't do well on your heat-resistant requirement. They do make Kevlar gloves, usually marketed as cut-resistant for people working with knives, and they're heat-resistant as well. You can also get them rubber-coated so they won't absorb grease from parts you're handling, but it might hinder dexterity. Just making suggestions for you to consider.

I typically wear Mechanix-type gloves when working on the car, but switch to nitrile if I'm handling something oily/greasy. Like you, I hate how they trap sweat, so I take them off as soon as I can. For yard work, I like leather driver (not driving) gloves, with a string adjuster on the back.
 

cholmes1

400lb Gorilla
350
216
Denver, CO
Thank you all. I will certainly try the Tire Buddy and the Vipers. What was said above makes sense, much like brake pads or tires, there is not an ideal for all. Best to keep a variety around the shop.

@Dave_W your posting actually reminded me of a great set of anti-thorn garden gloves I had a few years ago. Fabric gloves with rubber dipped fingers and palm. They worked great for several automotive projects before the fabric backing gave way to deterioration .
 
192
296
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
75024
I have great luck lately with rubber coated cotton. Bought some Milwaukee ones on sale for about $4/pair and use the heck out of them. I still use heavy leather or impact mechanics gloves for work with hammers, punches, power tools in tight spots. Mechanics mpact gloves saved my pointing finger years ago from a crush impact.
 

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