Metal chips in differential

[docs302]

Just to comment on your Cortex breather. I bought one along with my Watts. I removed an above-axle catch tank and found out that was a mistake. My first event was at Watkins Glen with 40 min sessions. I puked diff fluid out of that little Cortex unit every run. It was removed as soon as I got home. I reinstalled the larger catch tank and didn't have a problem again. The real solution is a diff cooler which is getting installed this year. At the very least you want a set-up that allows the fluid to drain back into the diff once it cools. Some use a breather mounted inside the rear compartment but I prefer to keep the tank outside the car. If you are going to seriously run the car at longer, high speed tracks I think a diff cooler is a good investment.

 

[Coz]

Have you considered aftermarket axles such as Moser? $450 for the pair. Made in the USA too:

Part # A883105 - 8.8" Ford 31 spline - Fits 2005-2014 Mustang 5 lug w/ABS adapter - Moser Engineering

Part # A883105 - 8.8" Ford 31 spline - Fits 2005-2014 Mustang 5 lug w/ABS adapter Part #: A883105 (1-Pair)Mfg: FordModel: MustangYear: 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014Rear End: 8.8

www.moserengineering.com

Moser Engineering A883105 Moser Engineering Replacement C-Clip Axles | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Moser Engineering Replacement C-Clip Axles with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Axle Shafts, Direct Fit at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[Stangra]

Just to comment on your Cortex breather. I bought one along with my Watts. I removed an above-axle catch tank and found out that was a mistake. My first event was at Watkins Glen with 40 min sessions. I puked diff fluid out of that little Cortex unit every run. It was removed as soon as I got home. I reinstalled the larger catch tank and didn't have a problem again. The real solution is a diff cooler which is getting installed this year. At the very least you want a set-up that allows the fluid to drain back into the diff once it cools. Some use a breather mounted inside the rear compartment but I prefer to keep the tank outside the car. If you are going to seriously run the car at longer, high speed tracks I think a diff cooler is a good investment.

When installed as intended I find my Cotex catch can/breather only 1/4 full, but oil is everywhere. My guess is it starts doing that from empty and accidentally catches a little bit during the day. I'm thinking about running a longer hose to it and hanging it higher up, close to the gas cap inside the fender to make the oil work a little harder to escape.
A diff cooler is on my short list but unplanned expenses have taken priority.

 

[Stangra]

Have you considered aftermarket axles such as Moser? $450 for the pair. Made in the USA too:

Part # A883105 - 8.8" Ford 31 spline - Fits 2005-2014 Mustang 5 lug w/ABS adapter - Moser Engineering

Part # A883105 - 8.8" Ford 31 spline - Fits 2005-2014 Mustang 5 lug w/ABS adapter Part #: A883105 (1-Pair)Mfg: FordModel: MustangYear: 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014Rear End: 8.8

www.moserengineering.com

Moser Engineering A883105 Moser Engineering Replacement C-Clip Axles | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Moser Engineering Replacement C-Clip Axles with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Axle Shafts, Direct Fit at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

The Moser link says p/n fits 05-14 Mustang and requires Yukon C-clips, not sure if they're the same as the new Ford one I got.
For some reason the Summit site says that fits 05-12, the 2014 axle is this:

Moser Engineering A883150-P Moser Engineering Replacement C-Clip Axles | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Moser Engineering Replacement C-Clip Axles with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Axle Shafts, Direct Fit at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

It appears it's the same part # for both sides, wonder why Ford uses 2 different #s?

The speed rings and studs are not included so I'd have to factor that in, but the show stopper is:
Estimated Ship Date: Jun 7, 2022 (if ordered today)

 

[Coz]

I'm not sure what you mean by two different part numbers. The link I included was for the pair and they have 9 of them in stock. The part numbers with a -D and a -P are for a single axle for either the driver's or passenger side. They are of slightly different lengths.

A C-clip is required. They are just suggesting the Yukon clip. I guess they don't sell the Ford ones.

 

[gww52]

Just beware that on the Moser axles I have the center hub is to short to center the wheel.It's only long enough to center the rotor.Not a good thing for road course duty.
Take a look at the strange axles, the have a removable center that extends to the wheel hub.I changed to them and they've been good.Plus they were a lot less expensive than the moser.

 

[Coz]

I was having a sense of deja vu about this topic and found this thread:

Thread 'Replacement Axles' https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/replacement-axles.16653/

Take a look at the strange axles, the have a removable center that extends to the wheel hub.

You're right about the Moser hubs.

On the Strange Axles, they call the removable center the "Drum Brake Register.". Lol. But according to the exploded view in the attached PDF, it is held on by a tiny screw. While there seems to be a lip on the underside of the "register" that fits into the recess on the axle, is that strong enough to shift much load from the wheel studs to the hub?
@blacksheep-1

 

[Stangra]

I'm guessing that the cross sectional area of the center portion of the "Drum Brake Register" has tremendous shear strength and the screw just keeps it in place

 

[Stangra]

I'm not sure what you mean by two different part numbers. The link I included was for the pair and they have 9 of them in stock. The part numbers with a -D and a -P are for a single axle for either the driver's or passenger side. They are of slightly different lengths.

A C-clip is required. They are just suggesting the Yukon clip. I guess they don't sell the Ford ones.

Sorry for the confusion, the Ford axles are sold separately with different #s, the Mosers are a pair under one #, I see that now.

The Summit link you posted, under "Make Sure it Fits" says will not fit my car (2014), not sure why. I was directed to the link I posted above, sold separately

A883105-D 7 in stock
A883105-P June 8 (up from 6/7 yesterday)

 

[Stangra]

Looks like Stange Axles may be my best bet. I'm confirming availability with them now. Under $600 all in, assembled with reluctor rings, studs, shipping & tax.

 

[blacksheep-1]

FYI if it goes south..

Thread 'Through boltbroke in diff, fix' https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/through-boltbroke-in-diff-fix.18263/

 

[RodS197]

This is on my mind. I've done everything else on this car myself. I have the aptitude and ability to learn, but differentials, transmissions and computers are like black magic boxes to me

I hear you! Take it from me, your third rear axle rebuild will work great! From then on they are easy!

 

[Stangra]

I hear you! Take it from me, your third rear axle rebuild will work great! From then on they are easy!

Well... I'm not aspiring to become Axle Guru by doing that many, but am considering taking a stab at 1. If so I'm hoping it's doesn't become 3 times regardless

I feel another rabbit hole moment coming on, Was just gonna change wheel bearings, now axles, and concern over the condition of the rest of the bearings/parts. Now a Torsen would be nice... what better opportunity? Aluminum driveshaft too! I'm getting a list together and pricing the parts and tools needed to rebuild the axle, not yet sure how deep this hole will be yet!

I cleaned out the oil lying in the axle tubes, found more particles in there. I don't think they're from the wheel bearings, they don't look that bad. I don't want to install new axles & bearings yet if I have more particles shedding from somewhere and rolling through them... current plan is to source what I need for longer term reliability, meanwhile put my old axles back (old bearings & seals still in) and get a couple more events in prior to some more comprehensive repairs.

 

[blacksheep-1]

Well... I'm not aspiring to becoming Axle Guru by doing that many, but am considering taking a stab at 1. If so I'm hoping it's doesn't become 3 times regardless

I feel another rabbit hole moment coming on, Was just gonna change wheel bearings, now axles, and concern over the condition of the rest of the bearings/parts. Now a Torsen would be nice... what better opportunity? Aluminum driveshaft too! I'm getting a list together and pricing the parts and tools needed to rebuild the axle, not yet sure how deep this hole will be yet!

I cleaned out the oil lying in the axle tubes, found more particles in there. I don't think they're from the wheel bearings, they don't look that bad. I don't want to install new axles & bearings yet if I have more particles shedding from somewhere and rolling through them... current plan is to source what I need for longer term reliability, meanwhile put my old axles back (old bearings & seals still in) and get a couple more events in prior to some more comprehensive repairs.

Well, if you decide to jump in...


Thread 'pinion depth tool' https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/pinion-depth-tool.18044/

 

[Stangra]

So I'm putting everything back together temporarily for a track day in 3 weeks. New axles ordered, 2-3 weeks out. I'm sourcing parts for a complete rear end rebuild and planning a Torsen upgrade too. I have few questions for the esteemed TMO realm.

Torsen 2.7:1 or 4:1?

Does kit M-4210-B2 + a ring & pinion, and axles & bearings cover everything else I need? Or am I missing something?

Here's pics of my ring and pinion, normal wear or....?

 

[Stangra]

Is there any value in saving my old ring & pinion set after replacing?

 

[blacksheep-1]

Is there any value in saving my old ring & pinion set after replacing?

not really, unless you have a wall of shame like I do in my garage, so you're going to replace those gears? .let me try and find a pic of the gear pattern, I know I've posted before.

 

[Stangra]

Yes I'm going to attempt replacing everything inside the axle housing. Still deciding on Traction-Lok w/carbon or Torsen, and possibly a gear ratio change. On the street with a supercharger 1st is a very short gear even with 3.31s, on the track I'm almost always using 3rd & 4th. At my next track event I will be watching RPMs to see if there's room for 3.55s without needing 5th too often.

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Torsen

 

[RodS197]

Torsen for sure. Really helps the car from apex to track out under acceleration. Helps under braking as well since it acts like an open diff under braking, whereas a track lock will still affect handling under braking. I think it is one of the best mods I have done to my cars.

Having said that, I have driven both the 4:1 (FR500S T2R) from my 2006 Mustang GT (3V) and the 2.7:1 in my current 2014 Mustang GT (Track Pack, Boss 302 T2) and can't tell the difference although the 4:1 is "better".

The T2R comes with a warning about hard launches. Frankly, I would recommend the 2.7:1 from the Boss 302 as it was designed for your car and power output.

I have seen these axles on eBay (2012-2014, 3.73, Torsen) complete anywhere from $1000 to $1200. Haven't looked recenly, but that might be a cheaper option if you haven't already bought your parts.