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My motor blew up......now what?

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Not sure if this has already been said, or maybe you re-installed it, but you need to reinstall the radiator plastic cover that goes between the plastic grill and the back of the radiator. Air will absolutely escape out the top of the radiator without this piece in place. The resistance to flow the air is met with when you combine the Oil cooler, ac condenser, radiator, fan shroud and engine bay will result in air wanting to escape up and around the radiator if you don't have that top piece installed. I may or may not have tested this theory with a leaf blower, but I digress.....science
Thanks for the recommendation. I do install all of the stock pieces so the cover is there. Really, the only thing I changed from my previous motor was the size of the oil cooler, radiator and the grille. The radiator was an upgrade so I doubt that hurt me but the possibility there was air in the system after install is definitely high. The larger cooler should also help. So I still think it was the grille and maybe air in the system that caused the problem. I don't want to blame the 10AN lines and I wasn't going to spend the money right now to upgrade but I did it and I feel better that I did. I think the open grille will solve the problem and hopefully there is no additional air in the system.
 
The Setrab sandwich plate with aluminum spacer and AN-12 lines was installed today. Oil pressure was up 10lbs at idle so very happy with that. Not that difficult other than I ordered the pre-made lines about an inch too long but they still worked great. No leaks so the nose will go back on tomorrow.

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1,040
1,088
Monaca Pa
The Setrab sandwich plate with aluminum spacer and AN-12 lines was installed today. Oil pressure was up 10lbs at idle so very happy with that. Not that difficult other than I ordered the pre-made lines about an inch too long but they still worked great. No leaks so the nose will go back on tomorrow.

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View attachment 88681
I finished mine yesterday. Mounted mine with fittings at the top.
Yours looks much simpler than mine lol. My pic is me making fitting lines.71449817872__58F0B6CE-9668-43C0-A1E7-A1B08992E278.jpeg
 
Last edited:
207
328
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Scottsdale, AZ
The Setrab sandwich plate with aluminum spacer and AN-12 lines was installed today. Oil pressure was up 10lbs at idle so very happy with that. Not that difficult other than I ordered the pre-made lines about an inch too long but they still worked great. No leaks so the nose will go back on tomorrow.

View attachment 88680

View attachment 88681
I can't say how critical the issue may be, but when Ford Performance looked at my initial cooler mounting (which was identical to yours), the FP engineer advised the horizontal line orientation could lead to an incomplete cooler fill and reduced efficiency. Just something to consider. I flipped mine 90*. Not at all pretending to be smarter than anyone else on this topic but FP and Setrab did have similar feedback.
 
1,040
1,088
Monaca Pa
I can't say how critical the issue may be, but when Ford Performance looked at my initial cooler mounting (which was identical to yours), the FP engineer advised the horizontal line orientation could lead to an incomplete cooler fill and reduced efficiency. Just something to consider. I flipped mine 90*. Not at all pretending to be smarter than anyone else on this topic but FP and Setrab did have similar feedback.
I called Setrab and asked what was the best position for the cooler and they said in/out ports at top..
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,518
8,154
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
I called Setrab and asked what was the best position for the cooler and they said in/out ports at top..
Yup. No trapped air pockets that way.
 
The Setrab sandwich plate with aluminum spacer and AN-12 lines was installed today. Oil pressure was up 10lbs at idle so very happy with that. Not that difficult other than I ordered the pre-made lines about an inch too long but they still worked great. No leaks so the nose will go back on tomorrow.

View attachment 88680

View attachment 88681
Which way did you route the an12 lines?
Where you able to fit the same route as the -10’s?
After reading this thread and speaking with ford (they recommend an12) I’m going to upgrade
 
Which way did you route the an12 lines?
Where you able to fit the same route as the -10’s?
After reading this thread and speaking with ford (they recommend an12) I’m going to upgrade
I run the lines same as the 10's along the sway bar and then around the radiator at the bottom and across. I use a 45 degree fitting at the plate and 90 at the cooler.
 
I ordered my hoses already assembled from Improved Racing. I added an inch from what I measured on the 10's thinking I will use a bit more length with the 12's and I was wrong. They should stay the same.
Ok thanks, I also got my lines assembled by improved racing.
I originally ordered my an10’s too long and they were happy to cut them down for me. Luckily they’re local.

Frustratingly I had the Setrab billet sandwich plate, I just had to buy the Setrab aluminum cast sandwich plate to accommodate the an12’s
 
38
28
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
NorCal
Interesting thread, thanks for all the info. Sorry it was at the expense of a rebuild. I’m pulling my Boss out of storage and looking to get it back on track. Is anybody else running the CoolTech oil cooler setup and made the switch to -12 lines? It’s their older kit that has the remote filter in addition to the oil cooler, so a lot of extra oil lines. I thought about just tearing the whole kit out, and going back to stock. But I’d like to avoid losing my oil pressure and temp setup I have in the remote filter sandwich plate
 

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