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Overheating brakes - driver or equipment issue?

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dmichaels

Papa Smurf
547
30
CT
Thx Pete. I may have to take car out in the rain and get some abs to kick in nicely. Also have a couple liters of RBF600 to use for more bleeding. Will get it sorted out before Limerock. Good info as always on this forum

Pete - you still using RBF600 or did you switch to SRF?
 
Advancetrak, even when turned off, can and will still intervene on track in some cars. My car brakes were always overheating and using a lot of pad, until I unplugged the wheel speed sensors. Of course that disabled abs, which was a fun new skill to learn. Eventually sanity returned and I sought other remedies to fully disable advancetrak.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
4,015
1,958
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
Go SRF it really lasts compared to the Motul, I ran 4 days, 2 in the rain between October and November last year and just flushed it out yesterday and honestly it was crystal clear and was probably fine for tomorrow at Lime Rock and next week at Charlotte. RBF is great when fresh but turns to mud after a few days on track and a few months time.
Steve
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
Moderator
2,848
14
Connecticut
steveespo said:
Go SRF it really lasts compared to the Motul, I ran 4 days, 2 in the rain between October and November last year and just flushed it out yesterday and honestly it was crystal clear and was probably fine for tomorrow at Lime Rock and next week at Charlotte. RBF is great when fresh but turns to mud after a few days on track and a few months time.
Steve

Steve is correct. SRF really isn't more expensive if you maintain your brake fluid correctly.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
PeteInCT said:
Steve is correct. SRF really isn't more expensive if you maintain your brake fluid correctly.

If we had a separate brake and clutch reservoir, I'd agree. I'd rather change more frequently. At the minimum I do the turkey baster and small bleed every track day. Full flush after 2 or 3. I don't think I could justify the SRF that way. And it's normally so dry here...I don't have as much concern over moisture except when it is actually raining.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
4,015
1,958
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
Grant
I agree with the idea of the separate clutch reservoir but I haven't had any accumulation of particles in the brake fluid that others have described from the clutch slave. I do change frequently like you and bleed and top off during or after events but the SRF really does last long enough to do a double life cycle over Motul or even the ATE fluids. I haven't tried Endless or Brembo fluids so can't compare those.
Steve
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
I always have something in the fluid using the turkey baster. I get the nozzle into the lower crevices/pockets and there's always some sediment down there.

I guess the SRF isn't *that* expensive when compared to Motul...since they are sold in liter bottles vs. half liter. Maybe I'll run it next winter
 
A mushy pedal due to fluid is a far different thing than reduced ability to modulation due to line expansion. Proper pads, fluid and cooling are a must. Lines are nice, but only a good advanced driver is going to be able to take advantage of the improved ability to modulate. Heck, I'd get rid of the massive brake dive to get better braking performance (out of the driver), than lines. That being said, lines are cheap and nice peace of mind in terms of durability.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
jlwdvm said:
Is this a "must" for HPDEs even with the low expansion lines the Boss has from the factory?

I don't think so. I'm still using the stock lines on both cars. I haven't seen any signs of hardening or cracking. I'll probably use them for another season and keep them for spares.

Fluid, cooling, pads and regular bleeding are 'must do' brake items for HPDE, IMO.
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
Moderator
2,848
14
Connecticut
Grant 302 said:
I don't think so. I'm still using the stock lines on both cars. I haven't seen any signs of hardening or cracking. I'll probably use them for another season and keep them for spares.

Fluid, cooling, pads and regular bleeding are 'must do' brake items for HPDE, IMO.

Agreed, it is most definitely not a must. You will get better modulation and somewhat of a firmer brake pedal feel, but its not a cure for a soft brake pedal. Use good quality DOT 4 fluid. I would minimally suggest Motul 600. Also, not all pads are created equal. Some pads just don't do well in high heat.
-Pete
 
If you're just starting HPDEs, IMO, quality pads and brake fluid are enough to start you off right. Brake cooling and lines can wait until you develop your skills and get harder on the brakes, or start using slicks.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
^Dunno about novices not 'needing' cooling ducts. I think I was in some ways worse on the brakes before. Lack of confidence in the brakes can make you start braking even earlier, which is a good way to get them to overheat. Without ducts, recovery time is a lot longer.
 

dmichaels

Papa Smurf
547
30
CT
Grant 302 said:
^Dunno about novices not 'needing' cooling ducts. I think I was in some ways worse on the brakes before. Lack of confidence in the brakes can make you start braking even earlier, which is a good way to get them to overheat. Without ducts, recovery time is a lot longer.

I cooked my brakes pretty nicely at Watkins Glen last summer before I had cooling ducting installed. It's much better now. Got in 2 liters of new fluid that I'll do some bleeding with right before my next event. Will see if that makes a good difference. I expect it will

Appreciate all the feedback!
 
Grant 302 said:
^Dunno about novices not 'needing' cooling ducts. I think I was in some ways worse on the brakes before. Lack of confidence in the brakes can make you start braking even earlier, which is a good way to get them to overheat. Without ducts, recovery time is a lot longer.

Maybe it's because I've only tracked in 30-40F temps lol
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
F.D. Sako said:
Maybe it's because I've only tracked in 30-40F temps lol

That's a good point. 8) I've blocked off or partly blocked my inlets when it's that cold first or second sessions at Willow Springs in the winter. The first time I cooked brakes (and puked hub grease) it was 91F+ out.
 
152
0
I have cooling ducts and will flush with fresh Motul 600 before my Autobahn track day in June. The car currently has Motul in it and I have 2 new bottles to use up before thinking about switching brands. I am still running stock pads and tires. What would be a good upgrade for my pads?
 
jlwdvm said:
I have cooling ducts and will flush with fresh Motul 600 before my Autobahn track day in June. The car currently has Motul in it and I have 2 new bottles to use up before thinking about switching brands. I am still running stock pads and tires. What would be a good upgrade for my pads?

Who are you running with in June? I'll be out next weekend with the members on Friday and NASA during the weekend. Stop by and say hi!
 

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