Removing the Stock Oil Cooler, what is needed?

[drano38]

Got my mounting bracket from 06mach1 a couple weeks ago--nice!
Yesterday ordered the Moroso plate from Summit, AN10 wrench, and added a sheet of honeycomb to protect the oil cooler. Plan to leave the current full sheet honeycomb on the radiator.
Today, from Improved Racing--934 cooler, 180 deg inline thermostat, fittings, hose, hose sleeve, clamps. Pretty much Grant 302's list, plus the thermostat (which is backordered to next week) (thanks Grant!).
I'll leave the stock oil/water cooler in, so the 934 should be plenty big.
Thanks to all for your info, posts, pics. Should make this a straight forward install.
Gotta get it ready for Brainerd MN end of July.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Wayne if you leave the stock oil cooler in you won't need the thermostat.

 

[drano38]

Rick,
My Boss gets mainly street driven, and spring/fall are a little crisp up here in the great white north, so I figured it would be best to get the oil up to temp before opening the cooler to 40 deg air.
Maybe the thermostat is overkill.
I'm always open to suggestions.

 

[2012-Boss]

If you are in a cold climate, I would use a thermostat.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Rick,
My Boss gets mainly street driven, and spring/fall are a little crisp up here in the great white north, so I figured it would be best to get the oil up to temp before opening the cooler to 40 deg air.
Maybe the thermostat is overkill.
I'm always open to suggestions.

Forgot about how cold it gets where you live. I'm gathering parts for mine now and should have it installed in early July due to some travel.

 

[drano38]

Forgot about how cold it gets where you live. I'm gathering parts for mine now and should have it installed in early July due to some travel.

Yea, not everyone lives in warm, sunny Cali.
Gary, John, myself and others, life up in the arctic.
My thermostat is backordered until ~ Jun 13th, so will be a late June install.

 

[Grant 302]

Yea, not everyone lives in warm, sunny Cali.

Rick doesn't either.

Interested in your cold weather DD results. Even with the T-stat, there's still some flow through the cooler so I'd keep an eye on your warm up times.

OK, here is what my results are of removing the stock oil/water cooler and installing a 934 setrab cooler using about 9' of 10AN line. Was at Watkins Glen yesterday. Temps were around 85+. Was not real humid but hot!. Track elevation is 1500 to 1600'. Only a couple of short sections were I get near redline. My peak coolant temp was 228 degrees. My peak oil temp was 274 degrees. This temp was taken at the inlet to the oil cooler. My previous peak oil temps were 270 degrees AFTER the factory oil cooler. I not certain, but I don't recall my coolant temps ever getting over 225 before. Looks like I am good to go at this point with my style of driving. Have another track day at the Glen later this month for more testing.

That sounds pretty good if you are only gaining a bit in coolant temp. I do wish there was a easy/practical way to mount an oil cooler behind the radiator.

 

[06mach1]

That sounds pretty good if you are only gaining a bit in coolant temp. I do wish there was a easy/practical way to mount an oil cooler behind the radiator.

I started thinking about this. I bet my coolant never actually reached 228. I think what happened is I turned the key on for a short period of time after the engine sat, which would be creating heat soak. My actual temps running down the track are probably a little less. I will have to be careful next time and check right away once I get done with my run. I go back in a couple of weeks. I am happy with my oil temps though. I was thinking I might have to put the stock cooler back in along with an additional oil cooler. I will see what happens at my next track day.

 

[VoodooBoss]

I finally got my cooler installed this weekend. I kept the stock cooler and added a Setrab 935 and followed 06Mach1's install almost exactly. A big thank you to Mike for answering all my dumb questions. I'm happy to report that after the install it fired right up and NO LEAKS! I need to reinstall the bumper cover and finish wiring the sensor. My only question is how are you routing the wiring from the sensor up into the engine compartment? I have it loosely hanging there from the sensor to the brake lines back to the firewall but I can't seem to find anything to attach the wire to down by the engine to secure it. Also a big thanks to 576 for the great deal on the cooler and parts. I'll post a few photos in a day or two.

 

[Black Boss]

My only question is how are you routing the wiring from the sensor up into the engine compartment? I have it loosely hanging there from the sensor to the brake lines back to the firewall but I can't seem to find anything to attach the wire to down by the engine to secure it. Also a big thanks to 576 for the great deal on the cooler and parts. I'll post a few photos in a day or two.

I covered the wiring with plastic and heat reflective tape and then secured to the alternator wiring and then the brake pipe body clip just above the engine mount before running around the strut tower and through the firewall.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Thanks. I was looking at the alternator wiring but didn't want any interference getting into the sensor. But it's about the only place to secure the wiring harness.

 

[Black Boss]

I ran oil temp, oil pressure and coolant temp sensor wiring together and have seen no symptoms of interference. You're right there aren't other options, especially given the proximity of the exhaust......

 

[Grant 302]

I wouldn't worry about interference in this application. The sensor signal is not RF and unless you run the ground in full parallel, there will be no induction on the signal.

 

[ford20]

Can someone please help me out here with this? For the time being, the oil cooler and filter mount is what is holding me up. The best i can tell is that the fitting comes off from the inside. It looks like there is some sort of allen key that goes inside there but I'm not positive. Does anyone have any ideas here?

 

[Grant 302]

Yes, you need a BIG hex tool to get it out. I'll try to find the size...

http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-6642-MB%20.pdf

 

[Grant 302]

I think it's 14mm, but I jammed a 9/16" IIRC. The 9/16" was really tight.

 

[ford20]

I think it's 14mm, but I jammed a 9/16" IIRC. The 9/16" was really tight.

Sweet, thanks for the help Grant! I will look around and see if I can't pin point the size or at least get a variety of different sizes. Thank you!

 

[Black Boss]

14mm was too small. I used 9/16". Torque spec is 43 lbft

 

[302 Hi Pro]

The Mishimoto o-ring is about .150 wide. Looking at the picture below of the stock Boss oil cooler, you can see the imprint of o-ring (I used black grease on it). It appears that about .070 to .075 of the o-ring will actually be doing the sealing. Not sure if I like that? It would seal, but not by much! Also, don't forget, if you plan on installing a temp sender and that temp sender has any length, it will block the ports. You will have to drill another port for the sender like I did.

My suggestion for anyone installing an extra air/oil cooler while still keeping the factory water/oil cooler would be to use the CX racing oil cooler plate (as seen below), but modifying that one also. The factory water/oil cooler acts as a thermostat in this case. The CX Racing plate comes with 10AN fittings, but those fittings are aluminum and the inside of the fittings are necked down to 8AN diameter, restricting the flow of oil. What I did is replace the fittings with steel versions which have the 10AN inside diameter. I also beveled the edges of the cooler openings and drilled out the inlet/outlet ID's to match the 10AN diameter fittings. No more restrictions and better flow, plus the port for a temp sender are in the correct location. Had I not changed paths and went the route of removing the factory water/oil cooler, I would have went this route myself.

Getting ready to do the air/oil cooler install. Is this sandwich plate adaptor still the best one to get when installed with the stock coolant/oil cooler? Is there another one now recommended?

Last question, is the Center Adaptor the M22 size?

Thanks guys,
Dave

 

[Grant 302]

Getting ready to do the air/oil cooler install. Is this sandwich plate adaptor still the best one to get when installed with the stock coolant/oil cooler? Is there another one now recommended?

Last question, is the Center Adaptor the M22 size?

Thanks guys,
Dave

Someone's CX racing o-ring blew. Not that long ago, IIRC.

I'm using this one, which I think is also in the FRPP kit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23699/overview/

M22 x 1.5 is the thread needed for the center adapter.