Replacing Bleeder Screws

[Ewheels]

I bleed my brakes via the two person method and my friend doesn't know his own strength and half-way rounded the hex head on the rear calipers (he no longer helps me bleed them).
How do I replace these? Is it as simple as unscrewing it and installing a new one? Is fluid going to go everywhere or no, as long as I don't push the brake pedal?

Thanks in advance

 

[xr7]

You will not lose much fluid, have you new bleeder screw ready to go back in, I put a bit of never-seize or grease on the threads of the new screw. Blead your brakes and you are ready to go.
I'm going to bleed the brakes if I put in new bleeder screws. Use a turkey baster to suck as much fluid as you can out of the master cylinder, refill master cylinder very full. Take a piece of a plastic bag and put it over the top of the master cylinder and screw the cover back on. Now when you pull the old bleeder screws this will minimize any fluid leak, if no air can get in the master cylinder no fluid can get out.

 

[JAJ]

Here's how I'd do it (I've done it a few times now):

Preparation - you'll need a new bleed screw, a catch bottle with a hose and a stick that's about the right length to go from the front of the driver's seat to hold the brake pedal about two-thirds of the way down.

1. Put the hose on the bleeder you're removing so that any fluid that comes out goes into a catch bottle. There won't be much fluid.
2. Loosen the bleed screw a full turn or so - maybe put a paper towel with a small hole in it around the bleeder to catch any drips if there's a leak.
3. Push the brake pedal down just far enough to lodge the stick between the pedal and the seat so the pedal can't come back up.
4. Swap bleed screws and tighten the new one down snug enough to not allow air to enter. Re-attach the hose.
5. Remove the stick, let the pedal come all the way up.
6. Loosen the new bleed screw about 1/2 turn or so.
7. Once again, push the brake pedal down just far enough to lodge the stick between the pedal and the seat so the pedal can't come back up. This will push any air that got into the top of the caliper out along with a bit of fluid.
8. Tighten the bleed screw again and clean up. You're done!

This works because there's a sliding cut-off in the master cylinder that disconnects the master cylinder from the reservoir once the pedal moves down a bit. Once that's blocked off, there's no place for fluid to come from to replace leaking fluid, so the caliper won't leak while the bleed screw is out. It's the same basic approach as sealing the reservoir with a plastic bag (a neoprene glove works better, btw) except it's simpler and it works better. The second partial stroke works because you're pushing fluid out then stopping the pedal part way down so it can't pull air back into the caliper. Super easy.

 

[TMSBOSS]

I just swapped the stock bleeders on my 350 for Russell 639560 Speed Bleeders. I also upgraded brake lines at the same time so my system was open a bit. Still, leakage and bleeding of the system with four new lines used about 12 oz. of fluid. A set of small silicone plugs work wonders for reducing waste while changing brake lines.
I simply removed the stock bleeder with one hand and put in the replacement with the other hand. Minimal waste. After all are swapped, do a normal bleed.
The speed bleeders worked very well. In the past I had to add Teflon tape to the threads to get a good seal between the bleeders and the caliper. Since Edelbrock took over, the threads have a better seal applied. Use a bleeder bottle and you can then bleed brakes solo. Although I am sure my wife misses the time she has spent pumping the brakes on my cars, regardless what she says. LOL.

 

[Ewheels]

I just swapped the stock bleeders on my 350 for Russell 639560 Speed Bleeders. I also upgraded brake lines at the same time so my system was open a bit. Still, leakage and bleeding of the system with four new lines used about 12 oz. of fluid. A set of small silicone plugs work wonders for reducing waste while changing brake lines.
I simply removed the stock bleeder with one hand and put in the replacement with the other hand. Minimal waste. After all are swapped, do a normal bleed.
The speed bleeders worked very well. In the past I had to add Teflon tape to the threads to get a good seal between the bleeders and the caliper. Since Edelbrock took over, the threads have a better seal applied. Use a bleeder bottle and you can then bleed brakes solo. Although I am sure my wife misses the time she has spent pumping the brakes on my cars, regardless what she says. LOL.

I looked up the speed bleeder link you provided.....why don't cars come with these from factory?!?! The concept is amazing!

Do you happen to know if these will fit/work on the front S550 Brembos and the single piston rear calipers?

 

[TMSBOSS]

Do you happen to know if these will fit/work on the front S550 Brembos and the single piston rear calipers?

I do not. Google around for thread and pitch sizes and search for the bleeders that way. For the most part, bleeder length is not critical as long as you are close.

And yes, as long as there is a seal between the bleeders screw threads and the caliper body, you can bleed brake without assistance.

 

[jhernandez]

I looked up the speed bleeder link you provided.....why don't cars come with these from factory?!?! The concept is amazing!

Do you happen to know if these will fit/work on the front S550 Brembos and the single piston rear calipers?

did you end up finding out if those bleeder screws work with the s550 Brembos?

 

[Ewheels]

did you end up finding out if those bleeder screws work with the s550 Brembos?

I did not.

 

[PatrickStapler]

Earl's Solo-Bleeds

 

[gtorpedo]

For S550 Brembos, I used the following from Stahlbus
- Rears: 2x stahlbus Bleeder Valve M10x1.0x20mm (L), steel
- Front: 4x stahlbus Bleeder Valve M10x1.0x16mm (M), steel
Make sure you grab the dust caps as well.

 

[blacksheep-1]

They have a torque spec.
Also, you can vacuum.bleed the brakes with a hand vacuum pump, a rubber stopper and a piece of brass tubing.

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Also put your friend at the dumb end of the system when bleeding.

i remember when I was an apprentice in my first shop and we needed to measure something and my boss yelling “give me the smart end!”

 

[jhernandez]

I did not.

I did end up finding out if the DORMAN 12706 fit the s550 Brembo 6 piston calipers, these can be ordered at AutoZone as a special order from their warehouse, I did find that some NAPA auto parts do carry them. From the photos the one on the top is rear and the one on the bottom is front that came off the s550 6-piston Brembo brakes.

link:

Dorman Products - 12706

Brake Bleeder Screws - Quick Bleeders - M10-1.0 X 33mm

www.dormanproducts.com

 

[bnight]

For S550 Brembos, I used the following from Stahlbus
- Rears: 2x stahlbus Bleeder Valve M10x1.0x20mm (L), steel
- Front: 4x stahlbus Bleeder Valve M10x1.0x16mm (M), steel
Make sure you grab the dust caps as well.

I developed the same problem in the front are the M10x1.0x16 (SB-110411) the correct ones for the front ?