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SN95 RinerAutomotive's CAM-T Mustang Build Thread Profile - SN95 Mustangs

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6,362
8,185
I love this car, a bunch of us built one of these for the Grassroots Motorsports challenge a few years ago, using basically the same formula. We kept the V6 though because it had aluminum heads and factory headers, which I believe helped the handling, we used a 75 shot of N20 to get us through the drag portion of the event. We finished 12th as I recall.
 
267
283
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Virginia
The ABS install series is complete on YouTube. It was a fairly easy install since all of the parts are Mustang parts. I did have to install new hubs with tone rings on the front and press on tone rings in the rear.

Here is the video for the wiring and plumbing. As I mentioned earlier all of the wiring inside the cabin area was already present which made things easier. I just had to run the front wheel speeds and figure out a few redirecting of wires.

I've done two autocrosses so far with the Nankangs and ABS install (still editing those videos), but I love the car right now. I'm able to brake deeper and harder without the fear of locking up the front tires, thus giving lots of confidence in the car. The Nankangs seem to be holding and handling very well. But the results speak for them selves, both events I finished in the top 10 in raw and pax. One event being out of 93 drivers and the other out of 60 drivers. I'm still chasing that GT350R though. Overall great start to the season.

Now just to complete the other things from my todo list
  • Front splitter version 2
  • RaceTCS install
 
267
283
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Virginia
So many updates. This season has started off amazingly. This year I am trying out the Nankang CR1 as I mentioned previously. So far (3 events) I really like them and the results speak for themselves. Speaking of results I have won CAM-T by at least 0.5 second at each of the 3 events. Top 10 in raw and pax at each event. With a top pax win at the last event!

But there were more changes to the car than just tires that could be contributing to it's quickness. ABS being one of the biggest. Braking into sweepers with ABS is amazing and confidence inspiring. Then also, I added the RaceTCS traction control system with launch control. Traction control is not interfering during the run, I'm mainly using it for the launch control feature. Currently have it set to 3400 rpm and seems to work pretty well, I've tried a few other settings.

Autocross videos are starting to roll out, the first one dropped last Friday:
 
267
283
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Virginia
I was able to borrow some scales from my local car club and figure out how much my car actually weighed. A long time ago I had the car weighed at a local shop after they welded in the roll bar. So in stripped out C-prepared trim and without torque arm it weighed 3000 lbs (I don't know how much fuel). Now I've added interior components, torque arm, front splitter, tube front bumper, but also put in a slightly lighter engine. The net affect the car weighed 3100 lbs with almost a full tank. A full tank of gasoline should be around 90 lbs. I like to run the car with a full tank, more weight in the rear, less slosh and less room for moisture when sitting.

My cross weights were really good close to 50%. I did tweak the rear coilovers a little but since scales weren't leveled and fuel load changes it won't always be at 50% cross balance.

As a reminder CAM-T allows 3000 lb minimum with driver.

Overall, I'm really happy with the weight of the car. It shows there is still more that can be removed, but not much. I'm thinking around 100-200 lbs. I don't want to get into a scenario where the car is protested when it is low on fuel and with Ashley driving.

Some more weight saving ideals
  • lightweight battery
  • splitter V2 with aluminum frame
  • tube k-member
Now for the video:
 
267
283
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Virginia
I totally mis-remembered the CAM rules. It's 3000 lb without driver. So I'm going to leave the car mostly as is. At low fuel I am around 3000 lbs. That's nice to know I am close to minimum weight. Probably one reason I can keep up with the higher horsepower CAM-C/S cars.
 

Frank.JD.Perez

FJD Performance
314
490
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Pleasanton/Hayward, CA
surprised ive never looked at your thread before... def will dm you about some things.

my car is also around 3klbs dry and W/O driver (~2900-2950)
 
267
283
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Virginia
surprised ive never looked at your thread before... def will dm you about some things.

my car is also around 3klbs dry and W/O driver (~2900-2950)
I'm definitely glad I weighed before the SCCA event last weekend, as they were weighing. Gave peace of mind. At ~3/4 fuel it weighed in at ~3120 lb
 
267
283
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Virginia
Ever thought about having a standalone traction control unit? One that you can tune yourself? One that doesn't cost $$$$? Well I did and I stumbled across the RaceTCS system. It's universal, so it requires wiring but I'm ok with that. The wiring install is fairly simple. In addition to the traction control it features launch control and flat shifting. The system is similar to the RaceLogic unit that was discontinued. It takes control of the fuel injectors and cuts fuel to control the wheel slip and rpm limit. The best part it's only $500 after shipping to US (based in Poland). We spend at least 3 times that on just tires. This can help prolong the life of those tires and hopefully make the car faster.

Here is a video on the install:

At the time of this writing I've completely 3 events with this system. Each event was on a different type of surface (very old concrete, worn asphalt, resealed asphalt). I had it set to the highest default setting which was 20% min slip and never noticed it kicking in until the resealed asphalt surface, which was also the grippiest surface of the 3. I can raise the slip trigger level to anything I want.

The launch control seems to be a game changer. It still needs some tuning to get dialed in, but getting off the line quickly is much easier now. It holds the RPM steady as long as the clutch is pressed and throttle is applied. After launching still have to hold back a little from full throttle until it stops slipping, but don't really have to pedal it. With more tuning and understanding of the system, I think could just mash the throttle, drop the clutch and the system will help the car get off the line quickly.

I wanted to test flat shift but it's not a normal scenario that comes up during autocross and I have no idea were to start with setting the RPM limit for flat shifting.
 
267
283
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Virginia
How does it work? Is it cutting timing or something else?
It cuts fuel. It goes inline between the ECU and fuel injectors. This is a very similar unit to the Racelogic traction control system that you can't buy anymore. I haven't looked up the Bosch system, but it might be similar too. By completely cutting fuel no combustion is occurring. The cylinder just becomes a momentary air pump. Yes there could be residual fuel, but that's unlikely to ignite or at least cause any issues. I think to do an efficient ignition cut really need individual coil setup, but that's just an assumption.
 

PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
Gotcha, ignition or throttle cut would normally be the preferred method just because it's more precise and it reacts faster. This is why you typically disable decel fuel cut on a performance tune, it just gives you that tiny bit faster pickup when you get back into the throttle. On an aftermarket system though it makes sense that they would have to make some compromise. I can see it being much harder for the average person to start cutting into their wiring harness.

Is it using the stock wheel speed sensors? I wanted to create a traction control table with my Holley HP but it doesn't have any VR inputs, I'd have to upgrade to the dominator or get an adapter. I've done it on a couple customer cars though.
 
267
283
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Virginia
Gotcha, ignition or throttle cut would normally be the preferred method just because it's more precise and it reacts faster. This is why you typically disable decel fuel cut on a performance tune, it just gives you that tiny bit faster pickup when you get back into the throttle. On an aftermarket system though it makes sense that they would have to make some compromise. I can see it being much harder for the average person to start cutting into their wiring harness.

Is it using the stock wheel speed sensors? I wanted to create a traction control table with my Holley HP but it doesn't have any VR inputs, I'd have to upgrade to the dominator or get an adapter. I've done it on a couple customer cars though.
I agree a drive by wire throttle body would be preferred. Maybe one day I will go with a Haltech. But I don't think there is much difference between ignition cut or fuel cut for this scenario. If it was ignition cut, then it would still be dumping fuel into the cylinders, which then could ignite in the exhaust. This would be beneficial for a turbo car aka anti-lag. For NA probably not so much. Also would quickly kill a cat, which I don't run but still. This system reacts very fast and was barely noticeable last weekend. Still needs more tuning though.

Yea you have to tap into the ABS speed sensors or run your own if you don't have ABS. It can work with most types of speed sensors.

I said in the video that I know many aftermarket ECUs can do this. But I don't have or really need an aftermarket ECU right now. Plus cost is way better ($500). Since Racelogic stopped making theirs, this guy created his own to fill the void.
 
267
283
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Virginia
Our local club hosted a test and tune day. We took the opportunity for Ashley to get some more seat time. To work on a few things without the pressure of racing for position. Namely launching the car and carrying more speed through obstacles. She got better throughout the day and got more aggressive. She still not driving the car on the limit, but that takes time and getting a feel for how the car behaves. The Mustang needs to be driven on the limit of traction to get the best times. It's not a well handling car like a Miata. But I think she has a good chance of winning Ladies class this year.

I also took this time to test out the newly installed RaceTCS and launch control. I tried out several different rpm settings from 2500 up to 3400 rpm. It definitely liked the higher RPMs more than the lower. The issue with our local autocross courses is usually right after the start beams there is a turn. Adds some complexity to launching the car. The system definitely helped with Ashley's launches. For one she doesn't have to look at the rpm gauge or try to hold a certain rpm and once launching the system keeps wheel spin to a minimum. It is far from perfect at the moment and I'm still learning things about it. But that's the fun of trying new things.


Now for the video:
 
267
283
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Virginia
It's Friday which means new video. This was the first event with the newly installed traction control where we were using the launch control feature. And I have to say it worked awesomely. Is it perfect...no but it definitely helps. Traction control did not come on at all during the run and there were no instances where I thought it should have. So that is all good. I know on a stock vehicle, traction control is very limiting.

In the end Ashley won ladies class by a 0.083s margin. I had a good 0.27s lead over the HCS Porsche, which had a crazy 0.793 PAX factor. But then in overall PAX time, I WON! By a mere 0.009 s. That time delta is crazy to think about. That's literally a brake too early/late, getting on the throttle too late, or being an inch off of cone kind of time difference.

Disclaimer this event did have lower participation, but the guy that is normally in the top 3 of PAX and has won overall for the past 5 years was there. A STU Porsche Boxster. So it wasn't a given and it was a fun fight. Hopefully, I can get some more PAX wins or at least some top 5 finishes.

It's still very early in the season, but I'm sitting first in Provisional class, Ashley is second in Ladies, but is very close to taking first, and I'm in second for overall PAX year end points.

I added a new camera perspective on the roof of the car. I wanted it to be higher and further back to look more like a video game, but the extension pole and mounting was not sturdy enough.

Video:
 
267
283
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Virginia
About a month ago I went to the Charlotte ProSolo. It was my first ever ProSolo and national style event. Man was that fun!

Some things I learned:
  • Bring a buddy either as codriver or someone to help
    • the starting line was on a slight incline so having someone to chock the rear tire was almost required
    • someone to see times without having to check phone after each run
  • All info (worker assignment, grid position, times, class position) is online
  • For launching this what I found worked for me: shallow stage and leave when third yellow bulb illuminates
    • I cut a couple lights in the 0.5s (note 0.500 is perfect, anything less is a red light)
I didn't finish as well as I had hoped, but my codriver did finish 10/19, while I finished 13/19. The car has potential. Honestly, I just got in my head and didn't drive as well as I could have. These things happen, and the mental game is one of the things I like about racing and autocross.

Video:
 
267
283
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Virginia
Being an engineer I really want to and enjoy designing and building things. The item that has been consuming my mind lately is front suspension, namely a SLA. This will also help make the car the ultimate CAM-T SN95 that I want it to be. I know it can be done with a strut suspension too, but I think this is something I can accomplish.

My current plan is to implement the SLA in phases. I'm doing this for several reasons: cost, show that it can be done, and I'm sure redesigns will be required.

Phase 1:
  • Stock/modified k-member, stock lower control arms, SN95 spindle
  • Off the shelf upper control arm, Howe ball joints, Griggs upper adapter, coil overs (JRi?)
  • Fabricate upper control arm mount and coil over attachments
Phase 2:
  • Fabricate lower control arm
Phase 3:
  • Fabricate k-member
Phase 4??
  • Aftermarket spindle (Cortex, Griggs, Mod Squad, etc)
If anything should make good content for on here and YouTube. I have purchased the Griggs adapter to start getting measurements to start CAD drawings. Also had purchased a spare stock k-member to make a jig/test stand with.
 
267
283
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Virginia
Had an autocross this weekend that a lot of cars dropping out due to mechanical problems and my car wasn't immune. I ran during the first heat and was having any issue with oil coming up the dipstick. I thought it might be oil coming up from g forces and a bad sealing dipstick. It was getting on the head and exhaust, not good. I cleaned it up and made sure dipstick was pushed in. During one of the runs the dipstick loosened up and came out of the block. I got it back in and tighten mount before my last run. But it was loose again afterwards.

Ashley ran in second heat, so before she ran I removed the dipstick and found a bolt that fit snuck with some hair tie rubber bands that acted like an o-ring. No more oil leaks

Everything was looking good during her first 4 runs, although she couldn't get a clean run. The course was quick and technical. However on her 5 run a big puff of white smoke came out mid course. She did good to recognize something was wrong and babied it back in. Upon getting back to the pits lots of white smoke at idle and engine was starting to sound a little rough.

Of course can't check oil since I removed the dipstick. Couldn't see any oil in radiator or overflow. But definitely signs of blown head gasket.

Looking back on it, I think the oil coming up the dipstick was possibly signs failed head gasket between oil passage. There has been some blue smoke during acceleration, but I thought (and could still be) it was from bad rings. Since I put the bolt in the dipstick location the pressure had to find another place, coolant passage?? A few weeks ago I had checked compression and PCV, they all checked out good.

So minimum I'll be doing a head gasket job. Not sure how to check the rings. I wanted to do a leak down test, but probably won't get good results with a known failed head gasket. Plus would have to buy the stuff to measure leak down.

I also have the removed engine that this one replaced that I can put back in, but it's a stock bottom end too. Would love to do a stroker, but can find better things to spend $2k+ on.

Bright side, I think I won my class. Ashley unfortunately never got a clean run.
 

Dave_W

Cones - not just for ice cream
984
1,277
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Connecticut
Sorry to hear of your problems. Is there a way you can hook up a compression test gauge to the dipstick tube, or somewhere else you can measure crankcase pressure (as opposed to cylinder pressure)? I'm with you - the dipstick popping out was probably due to the crankcase getting pressurized. Your initial thought on rings could be correct; it could be more a problem caused by ring blow-by than a blown head gasket. Then again, it could be both, considering the white smoke. You might be able to see something using a borescope down a sparkplug hole, but you probably need to pull the heads. Best of luck in fixing this; hoping it's relatively minor.
 
267
283
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Virginia
Sorry to hear of your problems. Is there a way you can hook up a compression test gauge to the dipstick tube, or somewhere else you can measure crankcase pressure (as opposed to cylinder pressure)? I'm with you - the dipstick popping out was probably due to the crankcase getting pressurized. Your initial thought on rings could be correct; it could be more a problem caused by ring blow-by than a blown head gasket. Then again, it could be both, considering the white smoke. You might be able to see something using a borescope down a sparkplug hole, but you probably need to pull the heads. Best of luck in fixing this; hoping it's relatively minor.
Thanks. I'll have to see what the oil looks like before I do any more cranking or running. Gauge on dipstick tube isn't a bad idea though. At this point I think this engine would need a full rebuild anyway. I think rings are damaged along with head gasket.
 

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