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S550 Steeda Engine Mount Failure - Lost Steering - Looking for recommendations for other options.

10
5
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Long Island NY
Brand new Steeda engine mounts failed on me after 1-1/2 track days. After day one I did notice some small red flakes coming from the bushing when I checked the bolts to make sure they were still tight but thought nothing of it. At Watkins Glen going into the S turns the steering got very hard. I thought I lost my power assist. Opened the hood and noticed the engine wasn't level. Jacked up the car and found the drivers side header resting on the steering shaft. Turns out the top red bushing disintegrated and must have fallen out and yes I had the rubber heat shield in there. I ended up moving the bottom black bushing to the top and used a brand new roll of heavy duty 3M electrical tape as the bottom bushing. It actually lasted the rest of the weekend with no issues. I did contact Steeda and have not received a response. Can anyone recommend a better/safer option for engine mounts for a dedicated track car. Thanks
 
Last edited:
W
Brand new Steeda engine mounts failed on me after 1-1/2 track days. After day one I did notice some small red flakes coming from the bushing when I checked the bolts to make sure they were still tight but thought nothing of it. At Watkins Glen going into the S turns the steering got very hard. I thought I lost my power assist. Opened the hood and noticed the engine wasn't level. Jacked up the car and found the drivers side header resting on the steering shaft. Turns out the top red bushing disintegrated and must have fallen out and yes I had the rubber heat shield in there. I ended up moving the bottom black bushing to the top and used a brand new roll of heavy duty 3M electrical tape as the bottom bushing. It actually lasted the rest of the weekend with no issues. I did contact Steeda and have not received a response. Can anyone recommend a better/safer option for engine mounts for a dedicated track car. Thanks
To whom did you speak or email? Let me know at [email protected] ... let me look into this for you & discuss what transpired with our tech team.

TJ
 
10
5
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Long Island NY
W

To whom did you speak or email? Let me know at [email protected] ... let me look into this for you & discuss what transpired with our tech team.

TJ
I filled out your contact form on your website and never received a response. This is what I wrote:

"I purchased from beefcake racing and installed your engine mounts (555-4039). After 1 track day at NJMP the red bushing was flaking little red bits. After a half track day at Watkins glen I thought I lost my power steering in the S turns at 120 mph. Turns out the top red bushing on the drivers side disintegrated and fell out which left the header resting on my steering shaft and damaged my header. I was able to move the black bushing to the top and used a roll of electrical tape on the bottom. The roll of electrical tape lasted longer than your bushing since I was able to finish the 3 day track event. I expect at minimum a refund for this product. It is a dangerous product and could seriously hurt somebody."

Turns out it also cracked a welded seam on my X-pipe.
 
10
5
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Long Island NY
Another vote for BMR - I have run their mount for 4 seasons now issue free. I’ve seen enough “s” brand stuff break on track to know it’s meant for a different audience.
Thanks, I will be switching anything on my cars out from them that could cause any safety issues if it fails. I think their customer service is meant for a different audience too.
 
If you really don't mind some NVH and your car is a track car from what you said, why not just go with Watson solid mounts and forget about them?
 
432
453
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Snowy North
Try to get a ride in a comparable car with solid mounts before you decide.

5.0+L NVH from extended runs thru the powerband with solid mounts can make for a lot more lock-wiring, nut'n'bolting sessions...sends a ton of energy into the gearbox, chassis, wiring harness, etc...and adds to driver (and component) fatigue/misery even in a "for-fun" dedicated track car.

Been there...done that...it all depends on how you want to spend your prep time/weekends :).
 
10
5
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Long Island NY
Try to get a ride in a comparable car with solid mounts before you decide.

5.0+L NVH from extended runs thru the powerband with solid mounts can make for a lot more lock-wiring, nut'n'bolting sessions...sends a ton of energy into the gearbox, chassis, wiring harness, etc...and adds to driver (and component) fatigue/misery even in a "for-fun" dedicated track car.

Been there...done that...it all depends on how you want to spend your prep time/weekends :).
good point, I would rather not spend time like that. Its a fun race car, not for competition. Thanks!!
 
432
453
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Snowy North
BMR's 90d (black) delrin pucks transmit nearly zero additional NVH at any RPM...yet they have very little deflection and manage the heat/vibration (energy) well, especially if your headers OR the mounts are wrapped.

Solid mounts of any type connect the crank directly to the chassis and steering wheel. Oftentimes...no big change in NVH at idle, but things spike up and down significantly depending on RPM, engine/gearbox load, type of gearbox, clutch, flywheel...etc. As such...could be tough to get a true picture of what will occur with a photo, sadly.
 

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