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Steeda UCA and Driveline Clunking Noise Solved

I had a lot of what I thought was "driveshaft clunking noise" that I finally fixed this past weekend. It turned out that I had the locking nuts set incorrectly despite following the instructions. One nut goes up against the adjuster (opposite of the flanged side) and the other goes up against the knuckle. The instructions will tell you to set both locking nuts up against the adjuster, and you will have the most horrible clunking noises from even the smallest bump. I hope this helps someone in the future because I was about to throw this part out and put the stock one back in or the Roush UCA. I should have noticed it before installing but it was hard to tell when on the garage floor with poor lighting and in a rush to finish before I ran out of beer and before midnight (not a good situation to be in a rush when working on a car, I know). Now if only I could get rid of that 70MPH diff whine!

Professionally photo-shopped illustration:
10703753_10203148676303406_6821924860484937153_n.jpg


TAGS: NVH STEEDA UCA NOISE CLUNKING UPPER CONTROL ARM PINION ANGLE
 
BOSSSTANG said:
I had a lot of what I thought was "driveshaft clunking noise" that I finally fixed this past weekend. It turned out that I had the locking nuts set incorrectly despite following the instructions. One nut goes up against the adjuster (opposite of the flanged side) and the other goes up against the knuckle. The instructions will tell you to set both locking nuts up against the adjuster, and you will have the most horrible clunking noises from even the smallest bump. I hope this helps someone in the future because I was about to throw this part out and put the stock one back in or the Roush UCA. I should have noticed it before installing but it was hard to tell when on the garage floor with poor lighting and in a rush to finish before I ran out of beer and before midnight (not a good situation to be in a rush when working on a car, I know). Now if only I could get rid of that 70MPH diff whine!

Professionally photo-shopped illustration:
10703753_10203148676303406_6821924860484937153_n.jpg


TAGS: NVH STEEDA UCA NOISE CLUNKING UPPER CONTROL ARM PINION ANGLE
I've had the same issue since installing mine three years ago. I also have the spherical bearing so attributed it to that! Did you talk to Steeda and they told you their instructions were wrong? The pic on their site shows as you describe it, but the instructions don't match the picture.

555-4112_zps76ae15cf.jpg
 
I have the BMR and the locknuts do not tighten to the adjuster. Assuming the design is the same, with male threads on the adjuster, the nuts need to tighten against the yoke and the knuckle , as that is where the relative motion will occur.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
My yoke screws into the adjustment piece the. That screws in the next piece so the photoshopped illustration is correct


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Bosstang,

I owe you a beer for your posting regarding the Steeda UCA locking nuts. I had some clunking too, so I took your photoshop picture to my mechanic and asked him to take a look. He said no problem but that the last ones to tighten the UCA was the alignment shop they sent my Boss out to after the install of the UCA and Steeda Boss Springs. Anyway, he looks at it and one of the nuts was tightened the wrong direction. All fixed now and that clunking is gone. The car feels much tighter and more solid now. Thanks again! ;D

Mike
 

steveespo

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Steeda's instructions do say that once pinion angle is adjusted to tighten the jam nuts securely against the adjusting sleeve. I just ordered one because of this thread, so are we saying tighten the axle side against the yoke and the body side against the adjuster for best anti clunk performance?
Steve
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
438
Southeast
I just installed this same adjustable UCA in July 2014. I really like the product and quality of the link, but I installed it with the OEM body mounting bracket. Is it worth buying and installing the thicker Steeda body mounting bracket?

Let me know your thoughts, and thanks in advance.

Dave
 
Dave,

Not sure on that but my observation was that the OEM bracket is pretty flimsy compared to the high quality of the Steeda unit. Logically it would seem there would be more flex with the stock bracket, but is that a big deal or not, I don't know. However, when you hold them in your hands, side by side, I think you would say "glad I'm replacing this bracket". Some of my mods have been simply for that reason, to replace cheaper OEM with higher quality, longer lasting parts. Just my $.02.

Mike
 
The stock brackets is fine IMO, if you're going with a poly setup. If you've got the hardcore spherical articulations, then the minute amount of slop with the stock bracket may be noticeable. The poly bushings are going to give a little as well.

The more important question is, are you going to replace the rear bushings over the pumpkin as well, an often forgotten upgrade. No point in spending the effort, time and $ changing the UCA, when that soft rubber bushing is still over the pumpkin.

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-upper-control-arm-bushing-kit-555-4436
 
Whats the pinon angel suppose to be. I installed P springs but no UCA. Do I need one and how should it be set up.. I did install a Panhard bar tho.
Thanks for any help.
 
boss man said:
Whats the pinon angel suppose to be. I installed P springs but no UCA. Do I need one and how should it be set up.. I did install a Panhard bar tho.
Thanks for any help.

You won't need one, but the upgraded bushings will help the back stick.
 

Senderofan

Having more fun than should be allowed..in my Boss
boss man said:
Whats the pinon angel suppose to be. I installed P springs but no UCA. Do I need one and how should it be set up.. I did install a Panhard bar tho.
Thanks for any help.

Pinion angle will vary depending on if you have the oem two piece driveshaft or a one piece. Might want to check out the angle on your LCA's first.....perhaps adding relocation brackets on them and moving on.

This is taken from the installation instructions on the Steeda website:


"10. Use an analog protractor or digital inclinometer to measure the angle of the front driveshaft (Figure 5). Measure the angle of the pinion flange (Figure 6). Subtract the pinion flange angle from the front driveshaft angle to find the net pinion angle. This procedure is only applicable to the S197 Mustang (2005+) with the factory two-piece driveshaft. If you are using a slip- yoke type gearbox with a one-piece driveshaft, it will be necessary to measure the vertical angle of the transmission mounting surface of the bell housing and then subtract the pinion flange angle to find your net pinion angle. Best angles range from 2o to 5o down.
11. Adjust the new upper trailing arm center sleeve to lengthen or shorten the arm as necessary to correct the pinion angle. One degree of pinion angle change is achieved by rotating the sleeve 1.65 turns. Once you have achieved the desired pinion angle tighten the jam nuts securely against the adjusting sleeve."


Wayne
 

Senderofan

Having more fun than should be allowed..in my Boss
steveespo said:
Steeda's instructions do say that once pinion angle is adjusted to tighten the jam nuts securely against the adjusting sleeve. I just ordered one because of this thread, so are we saying tighten the axle side against the yoke and the body side against the adjuster for best anti clunk performance?
Steve

I think he's saying to tighten the axle side to the adjuster and the body side up to the poly bushing end. This is what I ended up doing.....and I have greatly reduced the amount of noise....versus the Hotchkis with Heim joint and factory bracket. This is a nice upgrade with a nice price point....I think you'll be satisfied with it.

IMG_0009_zpsc2fa67ac.jpg

Wayne
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
438
Southeast
further said:
The stock brackets is fine IMO, if you're going with a poly setup. If you've got the hardcore spherical articulations, then the minute amount of slop with the stock bracket may be noticeable. The poly bushings are going to give a little as well.

The more important question is, are you going to replace the rear bushings over the pumpkin as well, an often forgotten upgrade. No point in spending the effort, time and $ changing the UCA, when that soft rubber bushing is still over the pumpkin.

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-upper-control-arm-bushing-kit-555-4436

Further:
I thought the same thing and so I replaced this bush as well. You're right, the OEM bush is really sloppy. If anyone is thinking about this, I've seen this same bush for about half of the Steeda price on CJ Pony parts website.

Personally, I'm surprised Ford did not reinforce the body a bit more at the point where the bracket mounts to the body.

Thanks for both of your replies,
Dave
302 HP
 
302 Hi Pro said:
Further:
I thought the same thing and so I replaced this bush as well. You're right, the OEM bush is really sloppy. If anyone is thinking about this, I've seen this same bush for about half of the Steeda price on CJ Pony parts website.

Personally, I'm surprised Ford did not reinforce the body a bit more at the point where the bracket mounts to the body.

Thanks for both of your replies,
Dave
302 HP

So true. The funny part is the directions for the bushing exchange. You'll need a press device to get the old bushing and metal casing out, from the receptacle over th the pumpkin. Then to remove the rubber bushing from the metal casing, Steeda says to apply heat, with a heat gun, then the rubber will fall out. Didn't happen. The directions explicitly say, at no time should there be flames. We took this as code to burn it out. A sales associate, later, mentioned that the rubber needed to be drilled out, using a robust diameter, 3/8" or so, along the periphery of the rubber until it falls out. Hopefully they'll amend th directions.
 

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