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Steering Problem

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
438
Southeast
BossMan76 said:
That's what I was thinking (and anticipating). There are quite a few take-off/remans on eBay for significantly less. Are the racks the same in the Boss and the GTs?

No more warranty and still not exactly sure what the problem is, but I M pretty sure it's in the rack, just not sure if it needs re-flashed or re-placed. Haha

BossMan76:

Good information on replicating and ID of the steering problem.

it made me think about one of our members here who chased down a similar, (IIRC), steering problem to a loose ground wire in the engine compartment near/on the R/Side strut tower. I guess the obvious possible cause this is an electronics failure with your driver info center warnings.

Your dealer can run an OBDII diagnostics check and identify any Diagnostic Trouble Codes. Let us know what the dealer finds,

Good Luck,
302 Hi Pro
 
Ok, so I was poking around under the hood (bored outta my mind) and I remember seeing in some other thread/forum that there is a fuse block on the positive battery terminal that may or may not lead to weird ABS/TC/EPAS stuff, so I popped the hood and here's what I found:

30921095651_69d1f3e6e9_z.jpg
30999351386_311f5a579b_k.jpg30999406636_ffa31f2926_k.jpg

It certainly looks like there has been some volcanic battery activity. The piece that connects to the actual terminal end (the bracket that holds the fuse in the first picture) is hanging on by a thread. While I know this may not be my problem, that certainly isn't good.. I called the dealer about a replacement and they want to sell me the entire cable?? Seems like a very replaceable part?
 
BigTaco said:
I would replace the entire cable; that rusty crusty is probably up the cable as well........

I was thinking that, especially since that end connector is not replaceable (now that I have it apart).
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
BigTaco said:
I would replace the entire cable; that rusty crusty is probably up the cable as well........

Even if the cable is fine, ~$100 for the whole positive cable assembly isn't much to pay for peace of mind.

TMSBOSS said:
Also inspect the battery closely. I small crack in the case could be venting on these components causing the corrosion.

I've seen a lot of battery insulators ruined by vented electrolyte. A thorough cleanup in the surrounding area with baking soda might also be in order.
 
Grant 302 said:
Even if the cable is fine, ~$100 for the whole positive cable assembly isn't much to pay for peace of mind.


I've seen a lot of battery insulators ruined by vented electrolyte. A thorough cleanup in the surrounding area with baking soda might also be in order.

Thanks, I'll check that out. Now, the bigger question, how hard is it to replace the battery cable?? Looking at how it is wrapped with the other cables, obviously it has to be cut out, but is it fairly straightforward?

Sadly, none of the clean up improved the steering at all (other than the peace of mind, it is MUCH cleaner now). So I am sure a replacement steering rack/gear is in my future. 1) How hard is that to replace (I know the bolts are accessed from the top of the unit, but not sure how accessible they are) and 2), Is the rack the same on the GTs (and V6s for that matter, although I would presume the GTs/Bosses may have a heavier/stronger rack since the car is heavier)? I ask because there are plenty of take-offs on eBay for $200-300 which is a welcome sight compared to the $1000+ for a new one.

Should I replace the rack on my own, would anything ECM/PSCM have to be re-flashed I wonder?

Thanks again
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
BossMan76 said:
Thanks, I'll check that out. Now, the bigger question, how hard is it to replace the battery cable?? Looking at how it is wrapped with the other cables, obviously it has to be cut out, but is it fairly straightforward?
The cable assembly should replace what's shown as #6 below:
8f7c7fd0cd47cb94c8d2e031b6a63185.png
I don't think you'd need to unwrap anything, just undo and re-connect at several terminations. (this is for the automatic):
0120fd3b367ae2bd5dbe6ca23c140219.png

Sadly, none of the clean up improved the steering at all (other than the peace of mind, it is MUCH cleaner now). So I am sure a replacement steering rack/gear is in my future. 1) How hard is that to replace (I know the bolts are accessed from the top of the unit, but not sure how accessible they are) and 2), Is the rack the same on the GTs (and V6s for that matter, although I would presume the GTs/Bosses may have a heavier/stronger rack since the car is heavier)? I ask because there are plenty of take-offs on eBay for $200-300 which is a welcome sight compared to the $1000+ for a new one.

Should I replace the rack on my own, would anything ECM/PSCM have to be re-flashed I wonder?

Thanks again

I think the main thing is to get a '13 or '14 rack. My '11 has ACN or Active Nibble Control, which has been known to react badly to stiffer aftermarket suspension parts.

I wouldn't rule out the tie rods just yet, but a used rack doesn't seem to cost that much more.

I recall that a fair amount needs to be removed to replace the rack. Maybe someone will chime in on the specifics.
 
Grant 302 said:
The cable assembly should replace what's shown as #6 below
I don't think you'd need to unwrap anything, just undo and re-connect at several terminations. (this is for the automatic):

I think the main thing is to get a '13 or '14 rack. My '11 has ACN or Active Nibble Control, which has been known to react badly to stiffer aftermarket suspension parts.

I wouldn't rule out the tie rods just yet, but a used rack doesn't seem to cost that much more.

I recall that a fair amount needs to be removed to replace the rack. Maybe someone will chime in on the specifics.

Thanks!

I was thinking that about the tie rods, but if it were the tie rods, wouldn't it have bee smooth when it was up off the ground? However, I did not have both wheels off when it was up, just one side.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
BossMan76 said:
Thanks!

I was thinking that about the tie rods, but if it were the tie rods, wouldn't it have bee smooth when it was up off the ground? However, I did not have both wheels off when it was up, just one side.

Maybe, but I don't know. I've never evaluated my steering up in the air, one side or otherwise! But when you say you had the 'limp' tie rods and describe similar problems to barspen's...hard to say for sure without seeing either car in person.

In the same situation, I'm sure I'd try the $40 or $80 potential solution before the $1k option. Well, unless I just wanted the $1k upgrade in the first place.
 
Grant 302 said:
Maybe, but I don't know. I've never evaluated my steering up in the air, one side or otherwise! But when you say you had the 'limp' tie rods and describe similar problems to barspen's...hard to say for sure without seeing either car in person.

In the same situation, I'm sure I'd try the $40 or $80 potential solution before the $1k option. Well, unless I just wanted the $1k upgrade in the first place.

Yeah, I gotcha. That was kinda why I went with the new FCAs, but that wasn't it.. I like that idea though. I think I'll have to give it a shot.
 
Grant 302 said:
Maybe, but I don't know. I've never evaluated my steering up in the air, one side or otherwise! But when you say you had the 'limp' tie rods and describe similar problems to barspen's...hard to say for sure without seeing either car in person.

In the same situation, I'm sure I'd try the $40 or $80 potential solution before the $1k option. Well, unless I just wanted the $1k upgrade in the first place.

Haha! Another piece to the puzzle. So I'm light of the above (and a couple of other places that mention "limp" tie rods), we had a significant temperature drop this morning and amazingly, it was like night and day. Very smooth (considerably) and no jerkiness. I think tie rod replacements are the next step.

I will update when done!
 
Grant 302 said:
IIRC, the tie rods are about $40. Since you can change your own FLCAs, I would either give those a try or an alignment first. A bad alignment could exacerbate any problem with loose or tired parts.

Found them:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-inner-tierod-0514.html

Probably cheaper straight from Ford.

Okay, so here's my dilemma. Bought new inner and outer tie rods from American Muscle (the link above), as they were in fact cheaper than Ford. For all four pieces, I spent ~$90. The four pieces from Ford was gonna run ~$270. However, to my disappointment (at AM) these are not OEM (price should have been a give away). These are cheaper knockoffs (Mevotech Supremes, Canadian, made in China). Reviews online go both ways (and I have learned there are two product lines and the Supremes are the better quality). They do appear to be just slightly thinner than the OEM tie rods, but what's your opinion? Should I send these back and buy from Ford or give them a shot? I don't track it or autocross, the most I do is spirited driving through the neighborhoods and highways (and possibly the Dragon today, I'm in Knoxville at the moment) so I'm not sure what kind of stress I would be putting on them.

Thanks everyone for the help. Hope you all had a great turkey day and stay safe out there with the shopping!
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
438
Southeast
BossMan76 said:
Haha! Another piece to the puzzle. So I'm light of the above (and a couple of other places that mention "limp" tie rods), we had a significant temperature drop this morning and amazingly, it was like night and day. Very smooth (considerably) and no jerkiness. I think tie rod replacements are the next step.

I will update when done!

What is the mileage on your car? Also I see that you went with the AM aftermarket units, but did you get a chance to inspect and/or test your steering rods and tie-rod ends for excessive play?

Perhaps another Member here has some experience with these AM units and can share info to ease the quality concerns you have expressed above.

In general, when it comes to steering components, I would pay more for the proven OEM pieces, but that is just me.

Good luck with your repair and please keep us posted.
All the best,
302 Hi Pro
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
BossMan76 said:
Okay, so here's my dilemma. Bought new inner and outer tie rods from American Muscle (the link above), as they were in fact cheaper than Ford. For all four pieces, I spent ~$90. The four pieces from Ford was gonna run ~$270. However, to my disappointment (at AM) these are not OEM (price should have been a give away). These are cheaper knockoffs (Mevotech Supremes, Canadian, made in China). Reviews online go both ways (and I have learned there are two product lines and the Supremes are the better quality). They do appear to be just slightly thinner than the OEM tie rods, but what's your opinion? Should I send these back and buy from Ford or give them a shot? I don't track it or autocross, the most I do is spirited driving through the neighborhoods and highways (and possibly the Dragon today, I'm in Knoxville at the moment) so I'm not sure what kind of stress I would be putting on them.

Thanks everyone for the help. Hope you all had a great turkey day and stay safe out there with the shopping!

I have a tendency to stick with Ford/Motorcraft parts when available and especially for suspension parts. I wouldn't hesitate to use the AM units in a pinch, but certainly wouldn't be my first choice.

I'm guessing the Ford units are more than $40, and why AM sells aftermarket brands at this price point.

Good luck with the fix either way.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
http://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/ford/mustang/br3z3280c/2012-year/boss-302-trim/5-0l-v8-gas-engine/steering-cat/steering-gear-and-linkage-scat/?part_name=inner-tie-rod&position=left

$51.82 from Whitebear Lake Ford and comes with the boot (#6 below):

490e1cc4d24f9bfe23ab81ade86cf830.png
 

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