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Stripped front caliper hole

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I was over at YoPauly's house today helping him install Eibach R1 coilovers and a new MGW Gen 3 shifter. We have both had this caliper issue and he came up with the following suggestions:

1. Remove the OEM thread locker from the original bolts and only use blue loctite. The OEM stuff is really strong and might be the main cause of the threads getting messed up.
2. Torque to 70-75 ft. lbs. The recommended torque is 85 and while that might be fine for removing them every 100,000 miles you probably don't need them that tight.
3. Safety wire the bolts if you're concerned about the above.
4. Take a file to an old bolt, you should be replacing them every few times you remove them, and cut a groove into it and use it to clean up the threads each time you remove the caliper.
 
NFSBOSS said:
I was over at YoPauly's house today helping him install Eibach R1 coilovers and a new MGW Gen 3 shifter. We have both had this caliper issue and he came up with the following suggestions:

1. Remove the OEM thread locker from the original bolts and only use blue loctite. The OEM stuff is really strong and might be the main cause of the threads getting messed up.
2. Torque to 70-75 ft. lbs. The recommended torque is 85 and while that might be fine for removing them every 100,000 miles you probably don't need them that tight.
3. Safety wire the bolts if you're concerned about the above.
4. Take a file to an old bolt, you should be replacing them every few times you remove them, and cut a groove into it and use it to clean up the threads each time you remove the caliper.
What's the best way to clean the Loctite off the bolts? I've wondered about the 85 ft/lbs....it seems like too much. Steve said he's been using no Loctite and anti-sieze and as long as you check them before every event he's been fine.
 
NFSBOSS said:
Yep I did not use loctite the last couple of times I removed them. You'll need to find your own level of comfort on what you want to do. Mike what have you been torquing the bolts to? It's always a good idea to use anti-seize when bolting steel into aluminum.

Torque? What the heck is torque? LOL! Lots of bolts and nuts I use a torque wrench on but caliper bolts, I do not. I use a long pattern wrench and both hands. I get them tight. Probably ends up around 75 ft.lbs. Should I be using a torque wrench? Probably. Not as an excuse, but I have been doing this going on 30+ years now. As far as never seize goes, I do not apply it every time I take the caliper bolts out. I probably use it twice a year.
 
06mach1 said:
Torque? What the heck is torque? LOL! Lots of bolts and nuts I use a torque wrench on but caliper bolts, I do not. I use a long pattern wrench and both hands. I get them tight. Probably ends up around 75 ft.lbs. Should I be using a torque wrench? Probably. Not as an excuse, but I have been doing this going on 30+ years now. As far as never seize goes, I do not apply it every time I take the caliper bolts out. I probably use it twice a year.
I'm thinking 85 is too much. My mechanic thought so too when I first encountered this problem. On the ones I have stripped it seems they let go after 80 somewhere and they seem like they're awfully tight as I'm trying to get to 85. Maybe 75 is the magic number......the rears are recommended at 76.
 

ArizonaBOSS

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I use a 15mm ratcheting box-end wrench and whack it a couple times with a 2lb hammer once the bolts are snug. Never had a problem with the bolts backing out.

Same procedure to loosen as well.
 

ArizonaBOSS

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NFSBOSS said:
I wonder if that hammer technique is used in designing computer chips too?

Designing, no--manufacturing...if necessary. :)

Steve: lol ;)
 

ArizonaBOSS

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steveespo said:
I know you didn't use the hammer on wrench technique during the engine build up Drew.

You're correct on that one. There is a time and a place for blunt force, and that is not it.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Dang! I was thinking about starting a thread on what track spares people take...and it looks like I gotta add a set of backup calipers to the list. :(

It's really gonna put my Mustang Tetris skills to the test!
 

drano38

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Looks like this thread found a new life.
I'm no mechanic, but I'd agree with others that we don't need blue locktite on the caliper bolts. We remove them often enough that we keep them tight.
As I said in post #19, I installed John Deere flange bolts since I can get them at work, and they don't have locktite on them.
I put antiseize on them too.
I still haven't purchased a timesert kit, but need to get that rolling in the next month or so. First I'll put them in my bad caliper, then put them in my driver side since that one's factory, and the threads have been beat up by multiple install/remove cycles with the Ford locktite bolts.
A slightly lower torque seems good too.
I'm also a member of the hammer club--I use a 2 lb deadblow on the wrench to break the bolts loose.
 
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We don't use a threadlocker either but then we are also maintaining our stuff at a much higher rate, it's not uncommon to go through brakes at maybe 1 to 2 sets a weekend.
 

steveespo

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blacksheep-1 said:
We don't use a threadlocker either but then we are also maintaining our stuff at a much higher rate, it's not uncommon to go through brakes at maybe 1 to 2 sets a weekend.

Bingo! for Rob again. We look at our brakes pretty much every time we drive the car so a check of the caliper mounting bolts prior to a race weekend or during a bleed should be automatic. Street cars that have the brakes checked every 25000 miles should stick with the lock tite when changing rotors at a brake service.
 

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