VCT Solenoid

[Pitt302]

My Passenger side intake VCT Solenoid was leaking oil into the electrical plug , the gromet didn't appear to be leaking. I have my Valve cover off ,pulled the old one out PA 6-6 KTK2H / BR3E- 6B297-DB . The new one ford sold me PA 6-6 KTK2H / BR3E- 6B297. They are similiar but the plug is 180 degrees out, also the Base has 6 little spot welds / old one has 3 groves looks stronger for attachment. He assured me it was the right one , but I am not to sure. Did the Road Runner Engine have a stronger / different VCT Solenoid ? I picked up a new valve cover seal & VCT Gromets. Is it nessary to replace these , are they single use ? Also I read the VCT Solenoid torque was 70 inch pounds , can someone tell me the torque specs for valve cover bolts ? also any special torque pattern ? I see they had 2 dabs of RTV sealent on the seal in two locations. Thanks .

 

[TMSBOSS]

I replaced my actuators and had to upgrade the engine harness. I could have cut and spliced in new connectors, did not. I upgraded since the original style wiring harness had issues.

 

[mwjscn]

The changeover for the VCT solenoids is the build date 2/27/2012 and after (during MY2012 production). I thought all 2013 cars had the update, if your profile picture is the vehicle in question, but perhaps they did the Roadrunner engine batches independent from Coyote production changes. The Ford Parts US website doesn't recognize the -DB extension or the Part# 6B297 (but sometimes the printed parts numbers differ), but if that's what was in there from factory I assume they must've changed it at some point (and formally changed the DB to an E, they usually use DA and DB extensions when multiple part variants exist at the same time in production from what I've seen).

Original 2011 VCT solenoid is BR3Z-6M280-A


For a moment it was replaced by BR3Z-6M280-D, but has since been superseded by BR3Z-6M280-E. The updated version having the more substantial ribs on the bottom of the arms and the spot welds are indicative of the variant.


Here's the chunky pre-production Coyote solenoid for some giggles:


I'd suggest cleaning off the old sealant and replacing.

Valve cover bolts are 10 Nm/89 lb-in.
LH

RH

VCT Solenoid torque rating is listed as 70 lb-in + 30 degrees per Ford.

 

[Pitt302]

Thanks so much , great info here . Yes I have a 2013 Boss 302 . My original VCT look just like the 2011 model except the plug is 180 degrees. The one Ford sold me looks like the updated version. I took all those numbers off the VCT solenoid , the bag it came in has BR3Z-6M280-E-1X . Looks like I have the proper unit , I just need to turn the plug 180 , weird.

 

[Pitt302]

Help please , so I change out this VCT solenoid , started up my car got out on the street started running very bad ( wrench light came on ) put it back in garage , shut it off unplugged Solenoid & plugged back in , restarted ( wrendh light went away ) . Went around the block and idle speed would stay high to long after letting off gas. Parked it went for dinner , when i got back restarted it and it filled my garage with exhaust smoke no wrench light . I also unplugged the VCT solenoid while it was running made no difference to the way it ran ? Like i said earlier this new VCT Solenoid plugs in opposite to the others ? Really didn't want to take it to Ford . I was very careful to torque everthing properly , i did have to push on the wiring harness alittle when removing & replacing valve cover. At this point I am thinking I may need to put the old VCT solenoid back and see if it still runs like crap. This sucks.

 

[mwjscn]

What were the codes pulled? AutoZone pulls codes for free if you don't have an OBD tool.
You may want to probe the VCT solenoids for their ohm resistance. Apparently they're supposed to be between 5-15 ohms across the terminals if they're in good service. It could be that you have multiple that are bad and need replacement. The OBD codes will usually point out which bank is running poorly as well.

 

[Pitt302]

All good I'am not going to Ford, feeling pretty stupid though. I usally run a Catch can system , but thought i would leave it off and put the factor PCV system back tempary so I could see around my valve cover for oil leaks. So I guess i hooked up the OEM system but actally forget to put the blue PCV valve in place. Sucking oil straight into the intake , hence all the smoke. Took it for a good run with the catch can back in place , no oil leaks ,runs and idles great . Thanks , I was thinking about giving up on my back yard Mechanics.

 

[TMSBOSS]

A simple error and no damage done. And Your car is good to go!!!

 

[TMSBOSS]

I would love to tell you I never make small mistakes when working on my Mustangs. When I replaced valve springs I cracked a solenoid putting the engine back together. That lead to new actuators and a new wiring harness.