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Winter Mods 2014/2015

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I tried to price out the kit with piecing the parts separately (konis w/ street kit). I was thinking of purchasing the parts separately, overtime, to notice the differences each part makes individually. Not sure if i missed anything in the kit, but pricing the kit separately came out to be ~$180 cheaper.
 
F.D. Sako said:
I think he meant the CG camber plates. I remember seeing some cortex kits using the CG plates, not sure if they manufacture their own camber plates now.

Yes, I had a total brain fart there!

twistedneck said:
The cortex jri setup i just bought came w maximum motorsports camber plates.

Well I think that should clear things up a bit haha.

Black Boss said:
Ordered the Cortex Watts link today with 10% off for Black Friday:

http://www.cortexracing.com/shop/xtreme-grip-watts-link-system-track-2005/

I was about to do the same exact thing but than I figured I would get stuff that I needed instead of having it sit around for a year or so until I would get around to installing it after I learn the car with the stock suspension.
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
441
Southeast
I ordered Kooks Street Headers with 1,700 degree ceramic coating. Should work well with the MagnaFlow Boss cat back X pipe system and open Kooks Gen II Boss side pipes.

MGW Race Spec Shifter arrived today, nice stuff from George.

LS front spoiler from FRPP.

Blowfish Racing front tow hook and bumper bracket with front spoiler strut rod attachment points.

Steeda 1/4" steel rear UCA body mount bracket.

Still looking for a good deal on the 2012 LS gauge package. Looking forward to all.of these mods.

Have fun and stay safe,
Dave
302 Hi Pro
 
1,281
3
Tulsa, OK
ArizonaBOSS said:
The one thing I will say about retaining the factory dash structure is that it is heavy. I'll bet you could save another 25-30 lbs by ditching that for a cage-bar and fabbing supports. I don't regret keeping it, however, and it certainly makes the dash easier to mount back on. Having the OEM appearance of the dash was a big deal for me.

I weighed the stock dash cage and it was 19 lbs. Could probably save 10 lbs by going with a straight bar?? Still not worth it for me...
 
302 Hi Pro said:
MGW Race Spec Shifter arrived today, nice stuff from George.



Have fun and stay safe,
Dave
302 Hi Pro

Good for you Hi Pro....Please post up when you get a chance on the install. Want to know how hard or easy it is to install. also after some driving time with the shifter let us know your findings.
Do you have the Blowfish bracket? I guess what I'm looking for is someone who has the BF bracket and removes it to install the MGW race spec shifter. Bottom line is there enough of a differance between the two. Dont want to drop all that cash if the BF bracket and MGW shifter is the same in the end. Will be waiting to hear from you on the install. Good luck on the install of your MGW race spec shifter...
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
441
Southeast
Hi SH:

Will do, I'm waiting for the Kooks Headers to come in as I'll do these mods at the same time. Just ordered the Headers from Maryland Speed Shop and they will have the units ceramic coated prior to shipping to me, but it may take up to 4 weeks for delivery. :(. Even though the newest video, (bench install), from George is enough info to install, I will benefit as his complete install video will most likely be out by then as well.

As for me, I will also drop the exhaust system, cats, X-Pipe and OTA pipes for the Street Header install, and then drop the AE 4.0" DS this way, (for me), it will be a nice clean install and dropping the rear of the transmission may give me a bit more room for the Header install. Plus I will change out the rear UCA body mount Bracket, (Steeda unit).

I'm very lucky as I can schedule a date that is slow for my Ford Dealer's service department and they will let me use a lift and any special Ford Service Tool. The only problem with this is the tool room is always a mess! LoL. But hey, I'm not complaining!

With the exception of my FRPP SS Clutch Fluid Line, (clutch warranty replacement), I have completed all of the mods on my Boss. As for time to install I'm not a Service Technician by trade, and I'm truly not the fastest, but as it turns out, I really enjoy working on my Boss 302 Mustang, strangely it has contributed to a very strong bond between me and my car, (as nutty as that sounds).

Oh, there I go rambling again! But when I'm out and about in my Boss or doing my few HPDE's per year, I know what is happening, or not happening under there so to speak. Also I like to share my experiences and information with other Mustang enthusiast. For me helping others is a most satisfying aspect of my Boss 302 Mustang ownership experience. It's a great community to be associated with.

It should take me 6 to 12 hours to complete these items. I also spend a lot of time cleaning and detailing everything I reuse before reinstallation. But that's my plan and hopefully I'll have everything to install between Christmas and New Years, because I have business travel the entire month of January 2015.

All the Best,
Dave
302 Hi Pro
 
1,281
3
Tulsa, OK
A few updates:

Finally got around to pulling out the heater core. The most difficult part was disconnecting the hoses at the firewall, but after fiddling with it for a bit I was able to contort my hands/fingers enough to compress the clips. Would have been a lot easier if the intake was off. Also removed (most) of the blanket on the inside of the firewall.
89845007-1ED4-4425-866C-43F18D02AF7E_zpscahw7bav.jpg

I decided to bridge the coolant lines at the front near the intake. Here is my first attempt at it. This should work but I'm not thrilled about it. The port on the left side of the pic angles out to the left, which makes it difficult to then bend back to the right side. I'm planning on cutting down that port to the point before it curves out to the left, and also cutting down the port on the right side. This should allow the bridge to sit lower and reduce any sharp bends. If anyone sees an issue with this please let me know.
80702C3A-2B03-4813-8A5A-EB335357364A_zpszuscvtqr.jpg

Class and "jack" decals on. Blingy. I got bored scraping seam sealer...
DFC30849-F775-41F7-9FCA-218A2EB76CEA_zps1ci4mqa6.jpg
76F5E5E2-FDC3-4DBE-A0AE-C33D7D5FC4D8_zpsxmu6joiy.jpg

New seat mounting goodies. Watson Racing weld-in seat mount and Sparco side mount brackets. I'll need to modify the seat mount to accept the side brackets. The holes don't line up as of right now.
97341F97-B3CD-450C-AB01-D029552AA7EC_zpsasipijhd.jpg
BBAD90DE-E0F3-487E-9436-CBCA01DC0240_zpsn9pdn9lv.jpg
 
roadhouse said:
A few updates:

Finally got around to pulling out the heater core. The most difficult part was disconnecting the hoses at the firewall, but after fiddling with it for a bit I was able to contort my hands/fingers enough to compress the clips. Would have been a lot easier if the intake was off. Also removed (most) of the blanket on the inside of the firewall.
89845007-1ED4-4425-866C-43F18D02AF7E_zpscahw7bav.jpg

What did you do with the mounting pins that the firewall blanket attaches to? Just from a cursory glance they don't look like they come out of the firewall. Is that the case?

Also, this is magical when it comes to removing the sound deadening

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/151490626513?lpid=82
 
1,281
3
Tulsa, OK
Sean said:
What did you do with the mounting pins that the firewall blanket attaches to? Just from a cursory glance they don't look like they come out of the firewall. Is that the case?

I believe there were a few clips/pins but for the most part the blanket was held onto the firewall by bolts/pins that the wiring harness was attached to. So by removing all the wiring harness from the firewall, you can remove the blanket with a little cutting. Hope that helps.
 
1,281
3
Tulsa, OK
I didn't choose the Crud Thug life, it chose me 8)

Damn $600 is steep! If I did this for a living it would probably be worth it, but my scraper and torch is OK for my "shade tree" work lol
 
1. Tiger Racing Hood and MRT hood Struts from Rehagen & Hood Pin Kit, Spool Pins/Backing Plates from Watson Racing
2. Cortex JRi Xtreme Grip suspension, Watts, Torque Arm, Eibach ARB
3. Rehagen Diff Cooler with proper plumbing and cabin toggle
4. Kennybrown 2-piece Baer Rotors F/R & Pagid RST2/56 Pads; Ti plates front KNS
5. CCW Wheels 18x11/NT-01s 305s square
6. Accusump with EPS Valve and cabin indicator light
7. Pillar triple pod cluster & gauges/sensors/senders: oil press/diff temp/trans temp
8. Switch Panel
9. Fluids/Alignment/Paint
10. Fix brake duct intake hoses
...broke!
8) :eek: :-[
 
Larry... you went all out! 8)
Next track season, car's going to be a beast! Definitely post some progress pictures once you get things going.
 
302 Hi Pro said:
I ordered Kooks Street Headers with 1,700 degree ceramic coating. Should work well with the MagnaFlow Boss cat back X pipe system and open Kooks Gen II Boss side pipes.

MGW Race Spec Shifter arrived today, nice stuff from George.

LS front spoiler from FRPP.

Blowfish Racing front tow hook and bumper bracket with front spoiler strut rod attachment points.

Steeda 1/4" steel rear UCA body mount bracket.

Still looking for a good deal on the 2012 LS gauge package. Looking forward to all.of these mods.

Have fun and stay safe,
Dave
302 Hi Pro


Wow! In the spring when your done, I'd love to hear your Boss with the headers. Have fun installing and let me know if ya need a hand when you do it. Just give me a heads up and I'd love to help out.


Chris
 

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