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Winter Mods III

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NFSBOSS said:
That's awesome, thanks for posting. Do you think it's possible to tap into the oil cooler sandwich plate for the temp and pressure sensors?

I'm not sure it will package with the Stock Cooler removed. I originally bought a combined plate and there was insufficient space for the sensors with the required cooler port orientation.

The other issue is to ensure the Temperature sensor is in series before the cooler, to measure peak oil temps. With two plates and the sensor plate mounted first this is not an issue.
 
Black Boss said:
I'm not sure it will package with the Stock Cooler removed. I originally bought a combined plate and there was insufficient space for the sensors with the required cooler port orientation.

The other issue is to ensure the Temperature sensor is in series before the cooler, to measure peak oil temps. With two plates and the sensor plate mounted first this is not an issue.
So with the stock oil cooler plate removed your new one was too close to the engine block for proper clearance?


gww52 said:
I added the temperature sensor to the canton sandwich plate very easily.
I'm not sold on the glow shift plate though.The ID if their 22mm fittings is small compared to the 1/2 -10 fittings.I even smoothed the entire interior of the Canton plate to improve flow.That alone gained nearly 10psi of extra oil pressure.Still there is enough restriction to decrease pressure 5-8 psi.
Guy
Are you running the stock oil cooler in addition to your DIY cooler?
 
Black Boss said:
Several people PM'd me for the parts list, which I've added.

I was wondering why is it that nobody (including Cooltech) used a Fanpack Setrab oil cooler? There are four coolers listed on the Setrab site with spal fans. http://setrabusa.com/products/oilcoolers/engine/index.html
At least two of them have similar dimensions and capacity to coolers without fans that people are installing. It seems logical to me that if it is beneficial to have heat exchangers (HE) which have fans then it would be beneficial to have oil coolers with fans, even if they are in direct air flow. For HE the conclusion seems to be that fans help creating vacuum behind the HE and move air and they also keep the cooling going on with lower speed or even at a stop. So why is the oil cooler community not leveraging the fans?
 
173
38
I actually have the FR cooler kit and the stock cooler but I've been improving on it.Before I added the Air/Oil I monitored the oil temps.The cooler is a must have if you drive even moderately hard.If I had it to do over I would piece something together.If its hot you can still see 250+ oil temp.
 
1,281
3
Tulsa, OK
roadhouse said:
Here is what I'm looking at:

1. Install diff catch can
2. Add oil pressure sensor to aeroforce gauge
3. Install Koni yellow shocks/struts
4. Make my own front splitter

1. Installed

1530602_10101665894496042_59087353_n_zpsedcfb917.jpg

2. Parts sitting...

3. Installed with H&R race springs. Ended up with negative 3 degrees of camber.

1538729_10101665894191652_1643818380_n_zpsd55ba467.jpg

1520683_10101665894256522_459247504_n_zps4b2c2fe4.jpg

4. Installed with wheel spats. It extends out 6 inches in the front and tapers to 4 inches on the sides. I may cut it down some, not sure yet. It's stayed on at 100+ so I'll consider that a small victory. Not bad for a free hand attempt by a shade-tree mechanic :)

BD02-2C82E47E296E-748-000000630B5ECE3B_zpscc7ddb65.jpg

8D19-0ABE9EE131DB-748-0000006304858DDE_zps32bdcea6.jpg

B33C-4C5222369AFA-748-00000062F977E04C_zpsf5d920fc.jpg

5. Installed sparco hood pins.

1560576_10101698189441712_1744613423_n_zps591c938e.jpg

1560454_783114235050744_1099885026_n_zps98794224.jpg
 
899
546
Winter Mods:

1. Air to oil cooler with thermostat
2. Auto Meter Elite oil pressure, oil temp, and coolant temp gauges in FRPP dash pod (I really had a hard time cutting the dash)
3. Aluminum sound tube delete cap to open hole in firewall to run gauge wiring from board member Mardis (very nice piece)
4. Blow Fish Racing front town hook
5. Lower mesh grille that fits around tow hook from board member 06Mach1 (really a nice piece)
6. Steeda lightweight radiator support
7. CHE lightweight aluminum front bumper
8. Changed transmission and rear end fluids

To Do:
1. Flush brake fluid
2. Check / replace front and rear brake pads
3. Check / replace front and rear rotors

A special thanks goes out to our own Steve Esposito for advice on installing the oil cooler and Auto Meter gauge sensors.

Steve
 
cloud9 said:
1) Getting closer to ordering battery relocation kit - Update: Kit is halfway installed. Have some questions for Steve on engine bay wiring pics versus instructions and will call to clarify tomorrow.

2) Waiting for FR to reprogram the unit.... Update: Received it but will install after battery relo is done and working.

3) Added engine wiring harness and sensor upgrade. Parts are at Precision Race Services. Update: Installed and working properly NO CODES ;D
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
4,017
1,963
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
steveespo said:
1 Replace clutch, TO bearing, pilot bearing, flywheel and pulse ring.
2 Replace trans with backup I purchased from Crazy Horse
3 Have original trans rebuilt at Revolution Automotive as a backup to the backup
4 Install transmission cooler setup
5 Replace all coolant hoses and coolant
6 Add larger oil cooler plate and thermostatic valve inline from ImprovedRacing.com, remove Boss water to oil cooler.
7 Find 18" wheels to fit front 15" Brembos.
8 Change front ball joints and hubs, torque check all suspension bolts
9 Install FRPP Panhard bar
10 Eibach R2 Coil overs with 550F/300R springs, maintain current ride height.
11 Install the correct 302R ABS module (If Ford ever gets them to Dean and Bill at Rehagen)
12 Install Ford Racing 302S/R steering wheel kit
13 Install LS Gauge pod and reconfigure gauge layout, moving traqmate traqdash to the steering column.

1 Done
2 Done
3-6 Have nose off and all parts, haven't started due to cold and new guitars taking up much time.
5&6 Done. Trans cooler on hold.
7 wheels from Blowfish will work, will be ordering from Steve soon. Done
8 Have parts see 3-6 above Done
9-10 These may be mid season mods
11 Wainting for Rehagen to get the updated module from Ford Racing. Done, living with brake warning lights.
12 Have parts, number 11 has to be done first. Done
13 Gonna order soon. In process
14 Have CJ intake, need back ordered CAI kit that is supposed to ship Monday. Will then get installed and have AED do a tune. got the Rev Auto 5" CAI, will be installing after Charlotte.

Steve
Updated above. Ready for the season to start.
 
NFSBOSS said:
1. Install my Watson Racing roll bar and RSD kit. Next Weekend
2. Install Stoptech ST40 front calipers with 350x35 rotors. Complete
3. Install an oil temp sensor for my Aerotech gauge. After the 50th Birthday Party
4. Change trans and diff fluids. Complete

And Added:

5. Remove stock oil cooler and add large air to oil cooler. After the 50th Birthday Party


Rick, where are you mounting your Aeroforce gauge?
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
Starting tomorrow night:
1) swap trans (4th gear syncro is toast)
2) koni yellows and gt500 strut mounts replacing stock brembo gt dampers
3) hotchkis adjustable panhard replacing stocker
4) finned FRPP diff cover and custom expansion tank
5) "GT" gas cap emblem replaced with tri-bar pony
6) MBRP 3" offroad H-pipe and Borla 2.75" over axle pipes
7) fluid changes and bolt checking
8) back on the scales for a corner weight update
9) new part to be tested which will BLOW YOUR FRIGGIN' MINDS!
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
i can't say too much right now, but i will tell you that preliminary testing last week had ELIMINATED the issue that is very common on our cars. i need to massage it for fitment and installation ease, but once its nailed down and the patent is applied for, i will have pre-production units made up to offer for beta testing. then, it will be officially announced and offered to the general public.
 

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