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Yes, I am still on the same 70/60 set up. The pad wear is pretty even between the front and rear. Have a new set of pads and rotors for the front sitting in my office ready when needed. Will just need pads for the rear when ready. I am surprised on how long they have lasted but I may be easier...
I had a similar noise and it was my front strut nuts. They had loosed and every time I hit any bumps I got a popping noise because the strut rod was moving up and down inside the strut mount. Worth a try checking it.
If you do not find an issue with your compression, Not sure if you already have but check your O2 sensors. I was getting a missfire that looked like an injector and ended up being my O2 sensors with an incorrect voltage signal. We changed them out and runs perfect now.
You can do what I did, I registered it with Haggarty as a custom car with their insurance and was able to bypass all the emissions tests since the car is now exempt in Arizona and registered as a classic/show car.
I have had the Trackspec louvers installed on my car for several years. Not one issue with them and my car has never gotten hot and I live in Phoenix. Sure the Race Louvers may be a little more efficient but the Trackspec work fine for HPDE and do what they are suppose to do. Vent the engine...
I have thought about this a lot over the last few years and I think the ultimate and least expensive way would be to go Gen 3 new short block, Gen 2 heads with 2018 intake. Have a professional build the motor. Paying the extra $3k - $4k for the expertise is well worth the $$$.
The Xineering blip module plugs directly into the harness without having to cut into the harness. The only taps are for power and ground. It has worked flawlessly.
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