I need some help diagnosing a possibly related issue to the diff.The problem is when I abruptly steer the car back and forth (weave or slalom) there is an audible knock or clunk from under the car. If the right forces are generated, I can do it with each back and forth. I can’t tell if it’s...

Could be, but the original arms were dead even. I will have to take some frame to ball joint measurements and see if the issue is the control arm. There is quite a bit of play on all the control arm bolts, it’s not exactly a precision fit.

Well I pulled them both out, moving the ball joint forward. One problem off the bat, now the camber is definitely uneven. Drivers side has quite a bit of negative camber compared to the passenger side. It’s got to be around -3 or so drivers and maybe -1 passenger. This is with both camber...

HPDE and street. Thinking maybe caster but then I read somewhere the s197 already has tons of positive caster.

Replacing both lower control arms. I know technically there is not control arm alignment adjustment, but the rear mounting bracket has plenty of play. I will get an alignment, but would like to start at the best place.If I pull the rear bracket out, it will add positive caster.Looking at...

Lot of good stuff there. Thanks. I watched enough videos to know I didn’t want to get into overhauling the diff. I was not aware that just swapping the carrier with no gear changes is a possibility. It sounds about the same level of commitment as a TL rebuild. Only outside help I will need...

Hold on a second here. Are you saying it’s possible to just swap out the oem diff without resetting the pinion depth and backlash? Just by using all the same parts, minus the diff? Are you saying to transfer the carrier bearings to the new diff?If true, I would definitely try this. Other...

Appreciate this. Obviously not saying much but my car is the best handling solid rear axle car I have driven. What I mean by that, is the rear axle does a surprisingly good job of hooking up even with a near open diff. I am currently running no rear bar and still have plenty of setup work to...

285 200TW is the plan. I am looking for more of a long wear kind of 200TW like maybe the GY SC3. I am not looking for a RE-71 type tire if that makes a difference.Paperweight is not very encouraging.

Makes sense. I am not racing just HPDE, so I don't need absolute peak performance. Also, no auto-X, just open track. What I am trying to get a sense of is the functional performance of a 100% (new) trac-lok vs a torsen. Also, how long a rebuilt TL can deliver near max performance. Will it...

The limited slip in my 2011 GT is gone. Any lateral loading creates a one wheel peel. On the lift, spinning one wheel creates no movement in the other. Other trac-lok cars, both wheels spin the same direction. This car behaves like its full open.Option one, replace with a Torsen or...

Tire rack had the best price. Plus my guess is anyone would have to order them.

Tried to order H&R coilovers from tire rack. They quoted me about 3 weeks from Germany. A bit too long for me. I ordered koni sports instead and I already received them. I went with the gt500 style as I got a good deal on a steeda upper mount for that style. After speaking to the rep with...

RSS have adjustable fronts, I don’t think the street versions have adj damping.

Interesting…. What about the H&R street coils? 400/290 sounds more of a track setup then street. I like you would prefer adjustable RH, although I would also like adjustable damping. For my budget though, it’s one or the other.