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https://www.awe-tuning.com/switchpath-exhaust-remoteWas on the AWE website and didn't see option specifically for GT350. Did you order the Mustang GT one?
https://www.awe-tuning.com/switchpath-exhaust-remote
I ordered this exact one. The only Ford car it says that it fits is the Focus RS. They don't mention the GT350 anywhere but it definitely works. They should add it on their compatibility list because they'd get a few more sales out of it. It is 100% compatible with our cars.
Here's my video as promised. They work perfectly!
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That looks like a winner. Just double check that when in track mode and at WOT the valve doesn't open.
Here is installment 2 on this post
As I had mentioned above, variation 2 on this basic solution is a version that does not require cutting into the wiring harness.
It turns out that Ford sells all of the connectors found in our cars. In this case, we are interested in both the female and male counterparts of connector C215.
Here are the Ford service part numbers:
Male - ???
Female – 3U2Z-14S411-TJA – Motorcraft Part Number - WPT-516
Here is what the female connector looks like
View attachment 5128
I have been and will continue to look for the male part number. No luck yet in finding it.
Ford calls these connectors “pigtails”. Since this connector can be employed in multiple places, they are unable to supply the correct color coded wires. They come with generic black or green wires in the spec’d out gauges.
Here is what a typical “pigtail” looks like:
View attachment 5129
So you get the connector with wires already crimped with the correct terminals already pressed into the connector, some solderable butt connectors, and heat shrink wrap. This is a 3 pin connector above.
A little side note on Ford Connectors:
Even though these connectors have Ford service part numbers, they also have Motorcraft part numbers. Turns out that Motorcraft actually handles all Ford connectors. The Motorcraft part number starts with WPT- and some number, three or four digits in length.
Motorcraft has a “pigtail” catalog. Can be downloaded from here as a pdf:
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/pubs/content/connectors/images/connectorcatalog.pdf
Only problem with this catalog is that it is somewhat dated. Came out in 2016 so not all of the connectors for the 2015+ models are in there. You will find pictures of the connectors which serves to help in identifying the connector you are looking for. Under each picture, you have the Ford service number and the Motorcraft part number. Way at the end, they also list where/how the connector is generally used. Pretty generic but could help in identifying which connector you are looking for.
I will provide you all with something that I put together in another post which I believe is very useful in making any wiring job a lot easier!
One other note. Most (90%) of connectors are female. Like the connector for the exhaust valve actuator. The female connector plugs into a male counterpart molded on the actual exhaust valve actuator.
Another example is the male speaker connector. I have the 4inch screen display, Sync 1 or what ever it is. Great radio with good power and super low distortion but the speakers really suck. So I replaced them with Harmon Cardon speakers. Problem is the after market speakers come with solder terminals. I did find the male counterpart to the Ford speaker connector and with a male connector soldered to the speaker, everything looks factory! These male counterparts are really hard to find but they do exist!
Another side note:
These connectors are expensive at $20-30 or more each. Sometimes, it is cheaper to buy the complete harness. For example. I had to rewire all of my external lights to comply with EU regulations. Yellow side markers, yellow rear blinkers, and a rear fog light (I also added front fog lights). There was no way that I was going to replace the rear tailights with those EU clear ones. Mine are factory red with super bright yellow LED's inside.
Turns out there is a sub-harness with a designation “13142”, its on the connector picture above with each connector . Turns out that the whole harness costs $28.99 and it has 10-15 different connectors on it. The harness also has the correct color coded wires in it. So for $28.99, I got color coded factory wire and all the connectors I needed. Buying these connectors individually would have cost $100-150 and I would have had generic black and green wires at all of the connectors. Even the largest harness in the car which is the body harness only costs $200. So well worth it if you needed a lot of connectors and want color coded wiring.
Another example are the “pigtail extensions” VoodoBoss sourced. Each connector alone would have cost $20+ each. By buying the “extensions” you get the correct color coded wire and these are wrapped with a special heat shield with two connectors for $15 each.
So what we are going to do is create a “plug” of sorts that will go between the male and female parts of the connector at C215. This will allow us to splice into the circuit without having to splice into the factory wiring as in version 1 above.
The more work involved part is that you have to make this “connector” yourself. Basically, you will take the male and female connector that you just bought and create a pass through connection on all pins except for pins 2. Here is a simple picture of what it will look like:
View attachment 5130
Let me explain “more work”. You will need to cut down the leads on the “Pigtail” on both connectors to lets say 1.5 inches. Make them all the exact same length, measure, mark, and cut. This will save on a lot of headaches soldering the two ends together. Strip off exactly the same amount of insulation off each wire. Measure it, mark it, and use a quality wire stripper. Use the supplied solderable butt connectors and connect pin 1 to pin 1, pin 3 to pin 3, pin 4 to pin 4, etc. Do all 10 pins except for pin 2. Pin 2 is what we are splicing into.
This will take a lot of patience and playing around. Idea is to keep the leads as short as possible. Tape up each splice. It will be impossible to slip on the heat shrink with very short leads. As you solder the leads, the heat will shrink the tubing since it’s so close to where you are soldering and you will not be able to slip the heat shrink tubing over the soldered joint.
There is another way but will require a lot of playing around. You can actually remove the wire and terminal from the connector. Use a medium size safety pin go in from the back of the connector in each cavity and use the pin to press down the tab that holds the terminal in place and pull it out. (Motorcraft sells special tools for this. These tools are in the Pigtail Catalog). Like I said a lot of playing around with very gentle pulling on the wire. Once the terminal is out of the connector, you can slip on the shrink tubing and heat it up to seal the joint and push the terminal back into the connector. Pay attention to the terminal orientation as you pull it out so that it goes back in with the same orientation. This is how you would repair a connector by the way.
Another option is to pot the whole connector (the one that you are making) in epoxy. When everything is soldered up, create a form with masking tape leaving the top open. Mix up the epoxy and fill the cavity. One serious word of caution, seal off the whole back face of the connector with caulk or the like. If you don’t the epoxy will flow in from the back of the terminal cavity and gunk up the terminal cavity and will interfere with the ability to plug one connector into the other. The epoxy does (when hard) keep the whole thing rigid, no wire wiggle when handling the built connector. Would also allow for really short wires. You won’t have to insulate the solder joints because the epoxy will do that.
So you see you can do this without splicing into the wiring harness by creating your own wiring harness with connector for the switch. Like I said, slightly more cost (for the two connectors) and a lot more work but by unplugging the connector you just made, everything is back to OEM. This one is fairly easy, there are only 10 pins here. Keeping the leads short is the key. Longer leads will simply the job but also make your connector bulky and harder to hide.
In the next version I’ll show you the ultimate solution but will be harder to make and cost a bit more.
Mine is a 2020. When I start it up, I will get that message for about a second and then goes away. Actually kind of like it as it lets me know which way the exhaust bypass switch is set. So, you are seeing this message all of the time?