The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

coolers for road racing?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

4
0
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
South Carolina
Hey, I have a few questions if you can give me some advice. I think this is the most related thread to post this for. If I need to start a new one lmk.

I am relatively new to cars and I’ve been using my 6 speed auto 5.0 on a small track with no cooling issues. I want to set up my 10 speed 5.0 right this time though for longevity..

How important is it to box the oil/trans cooler? My plan for oil is the thermostat sandwich plate, and a setrab 960 in front of the stock radiator.

I have the PP1 and I’ve heard that the coolant radiator is larger, I’d like to know if engine cooling is a problems with just the oil cooler, and not messing with the coolant radiator.

for the transmission, my idea is a setrab 116 fan pack, but some sort of thermostat similar to the sandwich plate. While I want to have cooling, this is still having normal road miles as well.

if you’ve set up a baffled pan for your mustang, can you replace the pan without pulling the engine? Like taking out the k member?

if there are any other tips you can give please lmk.
 
948 for oil seems to be enough for 95+% of people on here. Mine's on a thermostat but thermostats always allow bypass when closed so in reality it takes quite a bit of heat to get even up to operating temp on the street if thats a consideration for you. I rarely eclipse 160*f on the street with my 948 (and triple pass radiator).
 
4
0
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
South Carolina
948 for oil seems to be enough for 95+% of people on here. Mine's on a thermostat but thermostats always allow bypass when closed so in reality it takes quite a bit of heat to get even up to operating temp on the street if thats a consideration for you. I rarely eclipse 160*f on the street with my 948 (and triple pass radiator).
Yeah I’m still going to use this for car day to day traffic. Would keeping the stock radiator allow the heat to get comfortable sooner? If so, is just the 948 upgrade enough for cooling the engine on track?
 
10 speed has the thermostat inside the pan. Not outside. If you need a bypass I make one :)
Just cover the inlet of the trans cooler while driving around. (Unless you are in a 10f ambient where then i dont suggest the bypass )
In my 10speed i use a 650setrab. You NEED a big one. Series 1 is just too small. (What u have is bigger)
For engin oil. I use 660. Max temps are 250f. And..i push i think hard enough :)
Radiator i have mishimoto. Bigger than oem pp1. Also be sure to pair all with race louvers vents.
I believe oil and water should be optimized both. Cause they work together.
Boxing is the key. At least the radiator. Mine seems over complicated but in this way you have fresh air hitting everything (trans. Oil. Radiator)
235f is maximum trans temp you should have.
If you go more. You damage it.
My max temps are 190 now.
Upgrade the clutches too. At least.
Last. Tune is important. I work with Ken osborne of OZTUNING.
there are other things to be done. But this is the key to have the trans to work.

Here to help.
Alessandro

PXL_20221228_210135305.MP.jpg
 
Last edited:

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,293
4,293
Santiago, Chile
948 is great for the track but it will depend on how much power your putting out. If your motor is stock then you might not need it. Your 10spd will need a lot of cooling to give you more then 2 hot laps on track. The 6 speed auto was much more tolerant to heat.
 
4
0
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
South Carolina
10 speed has the thermostat inside the pan. Not outside. If you need a bypass I make one :)
Just cover the inlet of the trans cooler while driving around. (Unless you are in a 10f ambient where then i dont suggest the bypass )
In my 10speed i use a 650setrab. You NEED a big one. Series 1 is just too small. (What u have is bigger)
For engin oil. I use 660. Max temps are 250f. And..i push i think hard enough :)
Radiator i have mishimoto. Bigger than oem pp1. Also be sure to pair all with race louvers vents.
I believe oil and water should be optimized both. Cause they work together.
Boxing is the key. At least the radiator. Mine seems over complicated but in this way you have fresh air hitting everything (trans. Oil. Radiator)
235f is maximum trans temp you should have.
If you go more. You damage it.
My max temps are 190 now.
Upgrade the clutches too. At least.
Last. Tune is important. I work with Ken osborne of OZTUNING.
there are other things to be done. But this is the key to have the trans to work.

Here to help.
Alessandro

View attachment 94670
I’m too new to private message, but thank you all very much for the tips. I’ll def try to do as close as I can with budget.

I set aside money for a transmission rebuild as I see the inevitable coming.. but is waiting for my trans to give and rebuilding less optimal? I have 36k miles on it currently, and it feels a teeny bit weird going 7th/8th gear rn.

I’ll get the Mishimoto, does your boxing method delete ac? If so, is there a way I can do this without that? And if I don’t box or do it differently, I guess it wouldn’t be as efficient as your system.

I’ll def message you about the bypass when this site lets me. I’ve been trying to decide how to bypass for a hot minute.
 
I’m too new to private message, but thank you all very much for the tips. I’ll def try to do as close as I can with budget.

I set aside money for a transmission rebuild as I see the inevitable coming.. but is waiting for my trans to give and rebuilding less optimal? I have 36k miles on it currently, and it feels a teeny bit weird going 7th/8th gear rn.

I’ll get the Mishimoto, does your boxing method delete ac? If so, is there a way I can do this without that? And if I don’t box or do it differently, I guess it wouldn’t be as efficient as your system.

I’ll def message you about the bypass when this site lets me. I’ve been trying to decide how to bypass for a hot minute.
You can definitely box with AC. Just slighty more tricky with the extra tubing. Mine was boxed like that before removing the AC.
If easier you can contact me on instagram
www.instagram.com/italian_stang

Ps. U rarely use the 8th.on track
If money is to be considered i would do this (as order of importance and efficacy):
1. Bypass
2. Bigger trans cooler
3. Bigger oil cooler.
4. Bigger radiator
With racelouvers to be in asap.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Latest posts

Buy TMO Apparel

Buy TMO Apparel
Top