S197 3V Help with DTC code P060B, P2104, P2110

[Short circuit]

Need all your help diagnosing following DTC:
P060B: internal control module A/D processing performance
P2104: throttle actuator control system -forced idle
P2110: throttle actuator ‘a’ control system - forced limited RPM

The car is 2008 4.6 3V with a 91 octane tune. No other major engine mods.

Having trouble keeping car from going into limp mode(wrench/cel). As soon as the engine reaches warm normal operating temperature, throws a wrench and cel/codes.

I’ve been at this issue for 2 weeks trying to figure out and fix it myself. However, I am now lost and don’t know where else to look. By searching the web, the issue could be the computer itself gone bad or failing. There were no prior sign or car running poorly. This problem started out of nowhere…

New parts installed attempting repair:
Ford throttle body assembly
Ford pedal sensor assembly

So far, I checked TB connectors/wires, maf wire/connector. ECM connectors/wires, engine fuse box/fuses, interior fuse box/fuses and pedal wire/connector and engine ground wires.

I did not test the engine relays yet but seems to be temperature related. Does PCM just fail like this?

Please let me know your thoughts.

 

[SMGDHG]

Could this be CMCV related? Sadly I am a bit useless when it comes to CEL's because the only one my car has ever given me was when I forgot to tighten the gas cap 5 years ago. You replaced the throttle body and throttle pedal with OEM ford parts?

Also, if you let the car warm up, shut it off and then restart, does the car instantly throw the CEL or does it then wait "x" amount of minutes of runtime before throwing the CEL?

 

[Short circuit]

I posted this issue on Feb. It’s just starting to get resolved.
I went through the wiring, added more grounds, performed pinpoint tests, measured voltage before I started replacing parts.
Called electrician and also had a tuner come out to take a look and diagnose.
It turned out to be internal main processors error. The A/D converter is built into this main processor. Sent the PCM out hoping to get it repaired but issues within the processor like this can’t be repaired and must be replaced.
New replacement/reman PCM from Ford is not available or unknown ETA.
Purchased a replacement PCM out of running car and getting it reprogrammed with original keys/PATS to run on this car.
In the end it was heat related issue. It will go into limp mode when the car is sitting still idling. When temp reaches about 180*-200* with hood shut, it will throw a wrench light. With hood open, it’s random depending on outside temp. Once the car is moving at speed it’s 50/50 and a guessing game.
Heat has no where to go and things just get toasty in the engine bay repeatedly for years, also running up and down the mountain continuously for 30-40 mins in hot weather every weekend doesn’t help either.
Expected and good lesson learned. Getting the heat out of the engine bay is very important. Since this is still a street car without custom hood, vents or cut outs, I just need to cut the run short and cool down often.

 

[SMGDHG]

I posted this issue on Feb. It’s just starting to get resolved.
I went through the wiring, added more grounds, performed pinpoint tests, measured voltage before I started replacing parts.
Called electrician and also had a tuner come out to take a look and diagnose.
It turned out to be internal main processors error. The A/D converter is built into this main processor. Sent the PCM out hoping to get it repaired but issues within the processor like this can’t be repaired and must be replaced.
New replacement/reman PCM from Ford is not available or unknown ETA.
Purchased a replacement PCM out of running car and getting it reprogrammed with original keys/PATS to run on this car.
In the end it was heat related issue. It will go into limp mode when the car is sitting still idling. When temp reaches about 180*-200* with hood shut, it will throw a wrench light. With hood open, it’s random depending on outside temp. Once the car is moving at speed it’s 50/50 and a guessing game.
Heat has no where to go and things just get toasty in the engine bay repeatedly for years, also running up and down the mountain continuously for 30-40 mins in hot weather every weekend doesn’t help either.
Expected and good lesson learned. Getting the heat out of the engine bay is very important. Since this is still a street car without custom hood, vents or cut outs, I just need to cut the run short and cool down often.

That’s super wild, good detective work.
You must be really getting after it, I have a lot of hours up there too and never had issues . But I’d usually only go 10/10ths for a couple minutes; was always too scared of 5-0.

I apologize I don’t remember what you’ve got done to your car so maybe you’ve already done these. But just thinking out loud here:

Have tuner lower cooling fan engagement temperature set point (note this would likely lead to a significant reduction in fan service life). This would perhaps lower the chances of the components getting saturated with the heat that is coming off the radiator, engine, etc.

13/14 GT500 fan. I don’t know for a fact that this fan flows more than the stocker, but anecdotally it is crazy how much air that fan moves. I can feel the air movement out of my hood vents when that fan is kicked on. Stock fan did not do that.


Hood vents (you already know this)

If you know the exact component that is getting heat soaked, maybe can put some heat guard around it?

 

[Short circuit]

I don’t think you will run into this issue since your car is well vented and sorted.
Strange problem for sure but the car is also getting old, things will start to go wrong here and there. Again, it’s expected as a street car that gets driven 2-3 days per week in traffic etc.
I believe tuner had the fan kicking on at 180*. But that’s all out the window since the new PCM will have a factory tune in it. However there is an upside to this since the smog is due and PCM will be obd ready.
2 items that really gets heat soaked inside the engine bay are fuse box and PCM. I thought about relocating the fuse box and PCM but snapped out of it quickly and came back to reality.
As suggested I will “try” to fabricate a heat shield for it. Hope it helps and the newly flashed PCM will solve this issue. Thank you for your attention SMG.

 

[Short circuit]

Car is running and replacement/reprogrammed PCM seems to be working. Took the car out to quick canyon run tonight to relearn and sent it. All good for now.

 

[SMGDHG]

Car is running and replacement/reprogrammed PCM seems to be working. Took the car out to quick canyon run tonight to relearn and sent it. All good for now.

Nice!!! Sounds like a success