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Lowering Spring Question

I bought the Ford Racing lowering spring kit (M-5300-T) and was wondering if I only replace the rear springs will it level out the car? Are the front springs really necessary? My driveway is really a PIA to get in and out of w/o using the front spitter as a plow. Just wondering if anyone tried this?

Tim
 
I put the Steeda Boss springs on just the rear...leveled it out just right, at least in my opinion. From the ground to the lip of the front fender measures 28 1/8"...ground to the lip of the rear fender measures 28 1/4". I did have to put an adjustable panhard bar on tho to center everything back up
 
I just put these springs on this weekend. With both installed the rear sits up approximately 1/4" from the front. The front drop isn't much so if I had to guess with the stock front springs the gap would be nearly the same. Hope this helps.
 
I did exactly what you are wanting when I first got my T springs. It made the front and back identical and level, but it felt wierd driving it. It felt like the front of the car was floating. After I Put the fronts on, the car seemed to be as stable or more than the stock set up. The fronts are deffinately stiffer and better feeling. I wouldnt recomend it.
 

buland

One of the rare Boss LS in Switzerland
Jason said:
I did exactly what you are wanting when I first got my T springs. It made the front and back identical and level, but it felt wierd driving it. It felt like the front of the car was floating. After I Put the fronts on, the car seemed to be as stable or more than the stock set up. The fronts are deffinately stiffer and better feeling. I wouldnt recomend it.


+1
 
After reading up on the Dirty Hippo Racing site I decided to not worry about the rake of the Boss. They were saying that the rake increases drag but also increases downforce. I will still be going with something like a P-spring and not worry about leveling. Function > form is what I am after.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
WinterSucks said:
After reading up on the Dirty Hippo Racing site I decided to not worry about the rake of the Boss. They were saying that the rake increases drag but also increases downforce. I will still be going with something like a P-spring and not worry about leveling. Function > form is what I am after.

That is generally true for our cars. But there are localized areas where drag and lift increase with leveling. Like at the back window where flow is pretty well attached with the rake, but separates quickly when leveled/lowered. That flow separation increases drag. The rear bumper cover becomes more of a parachute when lowered too. This is why some race teams trim or remove bumper or rear valence parts when allowed.
 
Grant 302 said:
That is generally true for our cars. But there are localized areas where drag and lift increase with leveling. Like at the back window where flow is pretty well attached with the rake, but separates quickly when leveled/lowered. That flow separation increases drag. The rear bumper cover becomes more of a parachute when lowered too. This is why some race teams trim or remove bumper or rear valence parts when allowed.

Interesting. Have any of them adds some ABS or aluminum panels under there to help as well or is that kind of mod generally not allowed? I see it all the time on race cars.
 
I installed the Steeda Boss springs all around. They leveled out the car perfectly at 28" on all corners. The rear dropped about 3/4" and the front didn't drop at all. I really like the level look and it drives great. I like the idea of a matched set of springs all around. Not sure if that is a valid concept, but it makes me feel better. ;)
 
Thanks for all the replies! Now I'm not sure what to do? I want to car to handle good and it sounds like the Ford springs are a matched set of four? I'm not sure how much the Ford Racing springs drop the front end but I thought it said somewhere 0.8 inches? It would be great if it did not drop it at all in the front. If it does not drop it at all in the front but only in the back does it still change the front end alignment? I did buy the MM CC plates as I like the idea of being able to adjust my alignment and I have them on my other cars as well. I have an adjustable panhard bar but do not have a IC bracket picked out yet as I want to keep my Roush lower control arms so they must work with rubber bushings. Any ideas which lower control arm relocation brackets will work with my Roush LCA's?

Tim
 
The front on mine only went down 1/4" and as far as some other members say, they are P springs in the front and K springs in the rear. They weren't meant for the track, just to keep the ride as close to stock while lowering the car. If you will be driving on a track that drag would effect it that much, you bought the wrong springs. Put them on the front, you will like the ride much better than just having the backs on. Trust me.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
If I were to choose a rear only spring for a stock Boss, it would be the Steeda Boss springs. They are the closest to the published Boss rates at 186 lb/in vs. 185 lb/in., IIRC.
 
I am a fan of the Steeda Boss springs and they have worked out well for me.
They provide the "right" stance for me and they do not change the roll center so the handling is not impacted either....
IMG_2739_zpscf208ba6.jpg
 
I did install the rear springs and pan hard bar first and drove it to town and back. The rear springs do feel a little softer; which is a good thing for me, but it did feel different as far as maybe seating position because of the new angle/rake of the car? I went ahead and put all four springs in but have not drove it yet as it now needs a front end alignment because I put in CC plates. I have my own alignment equipment but come to find out the wheels are bigger than my equipment can adjust to (I'm still stuck in the 15" rim world) plus the stock wheel has no lip for the gage to mount on. I dread having to take it to the dealer and explain how to adjust the alignment with the new CC plates...................since most stock Mustangs today do not have any adjustment for CC and only toe I wonder if they even know how to do a full alignment these days?

Tim
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,642
3,815
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
thehueypilot said:
I did install the rear springs and pan hard bar first and drove it to town and back. The rear springs do feel a little softer; which is a good thing for me, but it did feel different as far as maybe seating position because of the new angle/rake of the car? I went ahead and put all four springs in but have not drove it yet as it now needs a front end alignment because I put in CC plates. I have my own alignment equipment but come to find out the wheels are bigger than my equipment can adjust to (I'm still stuck in the 15" rim world) plus the stock wheel has no lip for the gage to mount on. I dread having to take it to the dealer and explain how to adjust the alignment with the new CC plates...................since most stock Mustangs today do not have any adjustment for CC and only toe I wonder if they even know how to do a full alignment these days?

Tim

Tim

I had the same concerns about my alignment.

I took the manual from the CC plates and advised the settings I wanted. Took about 30 minutes for the alignment. Technician knew his business just had not worked on a mustang with adjustable plates.

A little education can go a long way.

Tracy
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,642
3,815
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
thehueypilot said:
Yes I was planning on taking the instruction sheet and will try to be as helpful and courteous as possible as I stand there and watch.

Tim

When I took the Boss in for the alignment, the tech tried to explain how hard it is to align a Mustang. So I opened the hood and showed him the CC plates and instructions. He just smiled.
 
TMSBOSS said:
When I took the Boss in for the alignment, the tech tried to explain how hard it is to align a Mustang. So I opened the hood and showed him the CC plates and instructions. He just smiled.

I'm not sure the tech understood the CC plate concept and they had a hell of a time getting it up the ramps of the alignment machine. I only lowered it 1" but I guess they are used to working on trucks around here.

Tim
 
OK major mistake going to the dealer (Gene Langely Ford in Humboldt TN) as they must of used a screw driver to pry the CC plates around as the paint is scratched around the top, driver side strut tower. Believe it or not I took pictures of the strut towers Sunday trying to get the alignment good enough to drive it to the dealer so I have pictures to prove the tech chipped the paint around the hole. The second issue is now the steering wheel is not centered driving down the road. As always I knew I should of done it myself. When I complained they said they would refund my money and that I should go elsewhere to fix it. They said to tell them how much it costs to fix the paint and they would reimburse me. I guess I just have too high of standards as compaired to their tech's.

Tim
 

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