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Plastic chassis front end

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72
39
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Colorado Springs
321
267
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
25 min. to 1½ hrs. from Sonoma (ugh... traffic!)
I'm guessing that part is made of polypropylene, similar S197 parts are. Polypropylene can be difficult to bond but with a quick search I found this stuff which sounds like it might do the trick. If you go this route don't just glue the fractured edges together. The break is on a flat surface so you if you can find find some suitable material, make an overlapping plate to bond onto the backside too. If this stuff is as effective as claimed I doubt it'll ever break in the same spot again.

 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,576
5,312
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Don’t blame Ford for making vehicles which are lighter when the government mandates mileage standards and performance minded owners want to go faster.

What you could do is find a piece of plastic the same size, remove the bolt and glue it over the cracked piece with an epoxy or JB plastic weld.

BTW, the “Chassis” is still made of metal.
 
72
39
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Colorado Springs
Don’t blame Ford for making vehicles which are lighter when the government mandates mileage standards and performance minded owners want to go faster.

What you could do is find a piece of plastic the same size, remove the bolt and glue it over the cracked piece with an epoxy or JB plastic weld.

BTW, the “Chassis” is still made of metal.
I have plastic welded it for the moment, we'll see if it holds. Regardless, it doesn't make any sense - the radiator support bracket is metal - but this particular tab is plastic - and yet they are the same part? If they just made it a separate plastic piece that screws or clips onto the metal piece, there wouldn't be a problem, as I could replace just that one piece. Making them all one piece is the epitome of "non-repairable design". There's no good reason for it.
 
72
39
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Colorado Springs
Also, I still don't understand why there's like 20 aftermarket options of radiator supports for S197 and none for S550. Have companies stopped developing new products for Mustangs? Is it still too early (9 years since S550 debut maybe not enough)?

If I have to buy a new factory radiator support - I'm 3D scanning it and CAD designing an aluminum version that I'll charge like $3k for and I'll have a monopoly on the market since no one else seems to want to make one. :)
 
Also, I still don't understand why there's like 20 aftermarket options of radiator supports for S197 and none for S550. Have companies stopped developing new products for Mustangs? Is it still too early (9 years since S550 debut maybe not enough)?

If I have to buy a new factory radiator support - I'm 3D scanning it and CAD designing an aluminum version that I'll charge like $3k for and I'll have a monopoly on the market since no one else seems to want to make one. :)

I imagine it comes down to complexity, cost, and improvement potential.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,576
5,312
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
I have dome a few plastic repairs. I have the best success with a plastic epoxy like JB weld and a plastic “Doubler”, a piece of plastic larger that the break, bonded over the break.
The European standard point may be real. My daughter had a low speed incident with the front of her Focus RS, all European engineering. Most of the front end came to me for repair in trash bags.
The head lights at over $1k retail. One had a single mounting tab cracked off. Epoxy and a doubler on top and steel rod underneath saved over $950.00.
 

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