Your brake pads seem fine to me. Going to bigger tires generates higher forces, which exaggerates chassis issues. Brake dive is a front geometry issue. Don't mix that in with wheel hop and forward bite.
The BMR upper mount at the top hole is higher than stock. It will provide less anti squat and a longer instant center length. Both will help your situation. 90% squat with a long instant center length is better for both power and brakes as compared to 90% with a short I.C.
I also had a spherical upper arm but went back to bushing at both ends using the BMR adj upper and their axle bushing. The spherical was too unforgiving, imho. That rattle noise when it brake hopped is the spherical banging around. Not that the noise matters but I like the bushing better.
I hate to just give out setups because 1. I worked hard to figure it out and 2. It won't work for everyone anyway. But top hole BMR upper, top hole rear lca (1 down from stock), lowered such that the lca's are angled up slightly, less up than you are now (so lower rear ride ht). This is ideal for me. If I melt the front brakes, I will just start to notice the rear feeling unhappy. So I'm at the limit. Having the spherical made the good / not good line very fine. I think that extra give from the bushing helps widen the transition zone. This setup also plus power down with excellent forward bite.
From where you are now, you can't lower the rear. The upper arm is short and going down will make more squat. Going up in the back will be directionally better for squat but you're starting to get a lot of lower arm angle = more roll steer which is fine at low speed but uneasy feeling at high speeds. I was in this exact same spot and also had brake hop. As a temporary fix, I would delay downshifting as much as possible and sometimes even pushed in the clutch to take engine drag off the rear axle, so it wouldn't hop. I looked at all the options and bought the BMR upper because the upper arm has too much angle. Plus its too short but you can't fix that with bolt ons. It made enough difference to get what I needed.
The BMR upper mount at the top hole is higher than stock. It will provide less anti squat and a longer instant center length. Both will help your situation. 90% squat with a long instant center length is better for both power and brakes as compared to 90% with a short I.C.
I also had a spherical upper arm but went back to bushing at both ends using the BMR adj upper and their axle bushing. The spherical was too unforgiving, imho. That rattle noise when it brake hopped is the spherical banging around. Not that the noise matters but I like the bushing better.
I hate to just give out setups because 1. I worked hard to figure it out and 2. It won't work for everyone anyway. But top hole BMR upper, top hole rear lca (1 down from stock), lowered such that the lca's are angled up slightly, less up than you are now (so lower rear ride ht). This is ideal for me. If I melt the front brakes, I will just start to notice the rear feeling unhappy. So I'm at the limit. Having the spherical made the good / not good line very fine. I think that extra give from the bushing helps widen the transition zone. This setup also plus power down with excellent forward bite.
From where you are now, you can't lower the rear. The upper arm is short and going down will make more squat. Going up in the back will be directionally better for squat but you're starting to get a lot of lower arm angle = more roll steer which is fine at low speed but uneasy feeling at high speeds. I was in this exact same spot and also had brake hop. As a temporary fix, I would delay downshifting as much as possible and sometimes even pushed in the clutch to take engine drag off the rear axle, so it wouldn't hop. I looked at all the options and bought the BMR upper because the upper arm has too much angle. Plus its too short but you can't fix that with bolt ons. It made enough difference to get what I needed.