Rear Camber Links S550 GT500

[21GT500]

I'm looking to get more camber on the rear of my 2021 GT500. I've found the SPL and BMR adjustable rear camber links. Anyone have practical experience with either? BMR quite a bit cheaper - I use all BMR parts on my turbo drag car and they perform pretty well. Just looking for opinions on either of these. Thanks!

 

[biggsy]

I installed SPL on my GT (5.0) but have not driven on them too much yet. SPL seems to be the best option when it comes to reliability and safety for rear camber arms. I know the price is up there, but you may also want to check out MMR's rear camber arm. The design is similar to that of SPL. Vorshlag has done extensive track testing using their parts so you can contact them for feedback also.

 

[JAJ]

I'm looking to get more camber on the rear of my 2021 GT500. I've found the SPL and BMR adjustable rear camber links. Anyone have practical experience with either? BMR quite a bit cheaper - I use all BMR parts on my turbo drag car and they perform pretty well. Just looking for opinions on either of these. Thanks!

First, you don't need any new parts to adjust the rear camber. The inner end of the factory camber link is in a slot and you just loosen the bolt and slide it in and out to adjust.

That said, I decided to go with aftermarket parts and I installed a set of BMR links. Then I pulled them back off because they squeaked and they splattered grease everywhere. Other than that they were fine.

I went back to OEM with a set of bolt locking plates, but if was going to stay with adjustables, I would have replaced them with the SPC parts, which are by far the strongest and best designed adjustable links out there: https://www.spcalignment.com/compon...ustang&year=2016 - 2016&from=USAFrom&to=USATo

 

[21GT500]

First, you don't need any new parts to adjust the rear camber. The inner end of the factory camber link is in a slot and you just loosen the bolt and slide it in and out to adjust.

That said, I decided to go with aftermarket parts and I installed a set of BMR links. Then I pulled them back off because they squeaked and they splattered grease everywhere. Other than that they were fine.

I went back to OEM with a set of bolt locking plates, but if was going to stay with adjustables, I would have replaced them with the SPC parts, which are by far the strongest and best designed adjustable links out there: https://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=72370&region=USA&make=Ford&model=Mustang&year=2016 - 2016&from=USAFrom&to=USATo

Ok, I'm at -1.8 | -1.7 right now. I think the guy that did the alignment told me that was maxed out. Are you able to get to -2 rear camber on the oem parts? The guy that did the alignment could be full of it for all I know and maybe there is more adjustment left.

 

[JAJ]

Ok, I'm at -1.8 | -1.7 right now. I think the guy that did the alignment told me that was maxed out. Are you able to get to -2 rear camber on the oem parts? The guy that did the alignment could be full of it for all I know and maybe there is more adjustment left.

OEM max on most S550's is -2.4 to -2.6 depending on how closely centered the rear subframe is, so non-GT500's are definitely not maxed at -1.8. However, the GT500 rear knuckle might be different and so it's possible it's maxed out. The SPC parts will allow about -0.8 degrees more negative camber than the OEM slots, so if you're really maxed at -1.8, you can get up into the 2.5 range. @honeybadger uses them on his car, if I remember correctly. He might have some thoughts on them.

 

[21GT500]

OEM max on most S550's is -2.4 to -2.6 depending on how closely centered the rear subframe is, so non-GT500's are definitely not maxed at -1.8. However, the GT500 rear knuckle might be different and so it's possible it's maxed out. The SPC parts will allow about -0.8 degrees more negative camber than the OEM slots, so if you're really maxed at -1.8, you can get up into the 2.5 range. @honeybadger uses them on his car, if I remember correctly. He might have some thoughts on them.

Stan mentioned in another thread that he's getting -2.5ish on oem hardware. My alignment guy may just be lazy

 

[honeybadger]

Definitely recommend the SPL or SPC arms. I think SPC has the safest design - not the easiest to adjust, though. I'm still using SPC and they'll net over -3.2 if you want it. I am at -3 right not to clear a wide set of take-offs that are used on a GTD car in IMSA. I typically run -2.4, though.

The SPL arms are a much easier design to adjust camber - I like that you can do it with the car on hub stands. Turner (engineer at SPL) assures me you can't break them. I'm still gun shy from my FTBR arms snapping in half (they both use a threaded section that's underload). But I trust Turner and would run them if I had a reason to swap out my SPC arms. The SPL arms are much thicker and Turner says you can't put enough load on them to break them in the rear suspension's OEM geometry.


I would definitely swap out the OEM, though. That camber bolt is prone to working loose and moving (dynamic camber on track from a loose bolt sucks - it also causes your toe to go out of whack). You can use lockouts like @JAJ does - they're just more tedious.

 

[21GT500]

Definitely recommend the SPL or SPC arms. I think SPC has the safest design - not the easiest to adjust, though. I'm still using SPC and they'll net over -3.2 if you want it. I am at -3 right not to clear a wide set of take-offs that are used on a GTD car in IMSA. I typically run -2.4, though.

The SPL arms are a much easier design to adjust camber - I like that you can do it with the car on hub stands. Turner (engineer at SPL) assures me you can't break them. I'm still gun shy from my FTBR arms snapping in half (they both use a threaded section that's underload). But I trust Turner and would run them if I had a reason to swap out my SPC arms. The SPL arms are much thicker and Turner says you can't put enough load on them to break them in the rear suspension's OEM geometry.

I would definitely swap out the OEM, though. That camber bolt is prone to working loose and moving (dynamic camber on track from a loose bolt sucks - it also causes your toe to go out of whack). You can use lockouts like @JAJ does - they're just more tedious.

Great info, thank you, I appreciate that!