Suspension Upgrades for Track Toy/Daily

[CobaltFilly]

For those who don't know my Cobalt Filly, we are running Steeda: Non-Adj Shocks/Struts, Sport Progressive Lowering Springs, Camber Plates...and that is it for suspension mods.

-2.9* camber and 19x11s on 295/35/ZR19 Michelin 4PS.

Looking at getting brake cooling vanes:
https://vorshlag-store.com/products/vorshlag-s550-brake-cooling-deflector-kit?variant=30890383212606

And thought while I am in there up front I should look at other suspension components. Thoughts on Front Control Arms upgraded to one of the following? Bearings or Bushings or leave alone? Any other upgrades or am I good down there and should just get "base model control arm brake cooling vanes"? Just don't want to buy vanes and then have to get new ones if I upgrade front control arms later.
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-4905-s550-front-control-arms-tension-link-bushings
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-4909-s550-front-control-arms-tension-link-bearings

 

[blacksheep-1]

For those who don't know my Cobalt Filly, we are running Steeda: Non-Adj Shocks/Struts, Sport Progressive Lowering Springs, Camber Plates...and that is it for suspension mods.

-2.9* camber and 19x11s on 295/35/ZR19 Michelin 4PS.

Looking at getting brake cooling vanes:
https://vorshlag-store.com/products/vorshlag-s550-brake-cooling-deflector-kit?variant=30890383212606

And thought while I am in there up front I should look at other suspension components. Thoughts on Front Control Arms upgraded to one of the following? Bearings or Bushings or leave alone? Any other upgrades or am I good down there and should just get "base model control arm brake cooling vanes"? Just don't want to buy vanes and then have to get new ones if I upgrade front control arms later.
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-4905-s550-front-control-arms-tension-link-bushings
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-4909-s550-front-control-arms-tension-link-bearings

I always recomend purchasing one of the Ford Performance handling kits. They are pretty simple, straight forward, they work and all the parts are compatible as oppose to the cut and paste method of using several manufacturers..

 

[CobaltFilly]

I always recomend purchasing one of the Ford Performance handling kits. They are pretty simple, straight forward, they work and all the parts are compatible as oppose to the cut and paste method of using several manufacturers..

Thanks for the info B1! Appreciate your input always. I was planning on sticking to Steeda items, but do you think it is better to go all FP items?
I do want to later on have a daily and make this full track car.

Also for some reason those kits say they won't fit V6s?

 

[mavisky]

Thanks for the info B1! Appreciate your input always. I was planning on sticking to Steeda items, but do you think it is better to go all FP items?
I do want to later on have a daily and make this full track car.

FP items are probably acceptable for a get out there and have a fun track day type car and are a definite improvement over stock. If you're chasing times though they're just not going to be up to the task.

 

[CobaltFilly]

FP items are probably acceptable for a get out there and have a fun track day type car and are a definite improvement over stock. If you're chasing times though they're just not going to be up to the task.

Also for some reason those kits say they won't fit V6s. Perhaps I will stick to steeda/cortex/whiteline.

 

[GJarrett]

Definitely get the brake cooling vanes if you are going to track it. I run an EcoBoost at lower HP than most here, at just intermediate HPDE level, and brake cooling was one of the first track mods I had to work on. The Vorschlag vanes were a big help and integral part of my brake cooling mods.

 

[CobaltFilly]

Definitely get the brake cooling vanes if you are going to track it. I run an EcoBoost at lower HP than most here, at just intermediate HPDE level, and brake cooling was one of the first track mods I had to work on. The Vorschlag vanes were a big help.

I have to upgrade front control arms first since base V6s have absolutely 0 cool stuff on them. EX: holes to mount brake vanes, PP1 belly pan that forces air to brakes. Will be nabbing PP1 arms soon I think...but then that opens a world of more problems since I am lowered an inch.

 

[CobaltFilly]

@mavisky, this might be the answer according to Nightmare Moon on M6G.

Steeda S550 Mustang Front Roll Center & Bumpsteer Correction Kit (2015-2023)

Steedas S550 Ford Mustang front roll center & bumpsteer correction kit fixes reduced steering response, increased body roll, & reduced cornering grip when youve lowered your suspension. This kit includes a left & right lateral link with extended ball st

www.steeda.com

 

[mavisky]

@mavisky, this might be the answer according to Nightmare Moon on M6G.

Steeda S550 Mustang Front Roll Center & Bumpsteer Correction Kit (2015-2023)

Steedas S550 Ford Mustang front roll center & bumpsteer correction kit fixes reduced steering response, increased body roll, & reduced cornering grip when youve lowered your suspension. This kit includes a left & right lateral link with extended ball st

www.steeda.com

Sounds like somethign worth looking into more. I know I've not been happy with the front roll on my car.

 

[CobaltFilly]

Sounds like somethign worth looking into more. I know I've not been happy with the front roll on my car.

Here was his reasoning:

"There's lateral links and tension links

The steeda lateral link with the extended ball joint are good for cars lowered 0.75 or more. recommended.

The tension link is what the deflectors mount to.

IDK about bearings and what not. Probably a good idea but its not going to really make you faster. Doing both lateral and tension links (and you must get the bumpsteer kit if you do the extended ball joint lateral link), gets pricey, versus just slapping on the deflectors for now."


I just know that my bushings are shot around the whole car, and now is the time for upgrading. $429 seems a good price to pay to get better handling and -3.3* camber instead of my current -2.9*.

 

[blacksheep-1]

Thanks for the info B1! Appreciate your input always. I was planning on sticking to Steeda items, but do you think it is better to go all FP items?
I do want to later on have a daily and make this full track car.

Also for some reason those kits say they won't fit V6s?

The bigger point is this, whatever brand you go with, stick with all the parts from that manufacturer. I prefer FP because a lot of SCCA classes ( like T4) is built around them. Like @mavisky said, they are perfect for getting you out and on track with predictable results. ( BTW the Phoenix Boss 302 that is a pretty legendary car, uses FP parts). I would look at Cortex next, then whatever from there, but that's my opinion, there are other ways.
If I were you, I'd look at my final goal, and pick up a rule book for that organization, then build accordingly.
BTW, this is a FP ecoboost national champion.

 

[CobaltFilly]

The bigger point is this, whatever brand you go with, stick with all the parts from that manufacturer. I prefer FP because a lot of SCCA classes ( like T4) is built around them. Like @mavisky said, they are perfect for getting you out and on track with predictable results. ( BTW the Phoenix Boss 302 that is a pretty legendary car, uses FP parts). I would look at Cortex next, then whatever from there, but that's my opinion, there are other ways.
If I were you, I'd look at my final goal, and pic up a rule book for that organization, then build accordingly.

Final goal is enjoy SCCA Time Trials, then maybe jump into NASA Time Trials.
In SCCA I most likely will be in Tuning T3, as long as I stay with rubber bushings, most anything goes. NASA, not sure, but thats wayyy down the road for me. Feel like learning from SCCA will be more lax and friendly.

 

[blacksheep-1]

Here was his reasoning:

"There's lateral links and tension links

The steeda lateral link with the extended ball joint are good for cars lowered 0.75 or more. recommended.

The tension link is what the deflectors mount to.

IDK about bearings and what not. Probably a good idea but its not going to really make you faster. Doing both lateral and tension links (and you must get the bumpsteer kit if you do the extended ball joint lateral link), gets pricey, versus just slapping on the deflectors for now."

I just know that my bushings are shot around the whole car, and now is the time for upgrading. $429 seems a good price to pay to get better handling and -3.3* camber instead of my current -2.9*.

Final goal is enjoy SCCA Time Trials, then maybe jump into NASA Time Trials.
In SCCA I most likely will be in Tuning T3, as long as I stay with rubber bushings, most anything goes. NASA, not sure, but thats wayyy down the road for me. Feel like learning from SCCA will be more lax and friendly.

It depends where you are located, for which organization is prevalent.
On those bushings, if legal, you should call Bruce at Full Tilt Boogie Racing for some awesome replacement bushings, tell him I sent you.

 

[CobaltFilly]

It depends where you are located, for which organization is prevalent.
On those bushings, if legal, you should call Bruce at Full Tilt Boogie Racing for some awesome replacement bushings, tell him I sent you.

Northern California, and I run with the San Fransisco Region of SCCA
Will do! Often looked at that site.

 

[CobaltFilly]

@blacksheep-1 @mavisky So I don't want to immediately due to cost ;-; but later on will want to upgrade my entire suspension (shocks/struts and springs included since I have been informed my current kit is not that great (https://www.steeda.com/steeda-progr...on-adjustable-shocks-and-strut-combo-kit.html).
I want to chase times (and be somewhat street-able so I don't make passenger princess unhappy). What are your suggestions? Do I salvage what I have and mish mash some items? Do I completely start over? Do I ignore suspension and do my interior so I am no longer flying around the cockpit? I like autox its great and I want to compete, but I REALLY love track more. I have 4 events coming up this month for more seat time so "driver mod" is covered and will be the rest of this year and next.
Sorry for asking so much, I just am tired of making so many mistakes. I am too young to keep making mistakes and throwing money without expert advice from those who already made mistakes and can take me down a better path aka you. Thank you in advance.

 

[mavisky]

Building a car on a budget is tough. Even my car is built on a budget and I'm always shopping used parts deals and discounts. Sometimes that steers my direction more than "need" or "common sense".

Safety is a big concern and it's damned hard to get better at driving if you're spending a ton of energy just trying to keep yourself still in the car. Your arms should be focused on smooth steering inputs, not holding bracing yourself. I would wager you'd grow more as a driver being stable in the vehicle than you would from addressing any suspension imperfections.

 

[blacksheep-1]

Building a car on a budget is tough. Even my car is built on a budget and I'm always shopping used parts deals and discounts. Sometimes that steers my direction more than "need" or "common sense".

Safety is a big concern and it's damned hard to get better at driving if you're spending a ton of energy just trying to keep yourself still in the car. Your arms should be focused on smooth steering inputs, not holding bracing yourself. I would wager you'd grow more as a driver being stable in the vehicle than you would from addressing any suspension imperfections.

I would agree with Mav, until you are comfortable in the car, you'll never improve. Run what you have for suspension and get the belts/ seat/ roll bar thing handled and get some drive time.

 

[CobaltFilly]

Roger, on it.