- 6,409
- 8,308
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The first thing to decide is, what does the rulebook say you can do?
You really can't have any of the links too long, IMO. Model it out in Suspension Analyzer. Is the SN95 longer in this area than a Fox? On my old Fox CP car, I want to say the top link to the back of the main hoop was 22". Lowers are 18" IIRC. Going up near the main hoop allows an easy and strong way to make a sliding mount with infinite adjustability.I think the only sheet metal I'll need to... relocate, will be the front most part of the spare tire tub in the trunk. A bar all the way to the main hoop would be way longer than needed, I'm just looking to match the LCA length for minimal pinion angle changes. I'm also thinking about slotting at least one of the mounts with a serrated block for real fine tune adjustments.
I don't disagree about suspension design, it's a cliff. I added SLA to a Fox mustang back in the day and built an entire EM car from the ground up and both of those projects involved hours going back from the software to the shop and redesigning.OK, let's start over..
This statement was what I was referencing
"I am going to a TA on my S197 just because I don't want to cut the car up and the stock 3 link is pretty compromised, but in my experience a true 3rd link is the way to go for adjustability and also opens up a bunch of options for upper links with springs, cushions, shocks, etc. to further tune forward bite."
now with regards to a 3 link on an SN95/New Edge
Most racing organization forbid piercing the floor pan with suspension links. Somewhere around here is a pic of an outstanding 3 link in an SN95, problem is/was the upper link had to come through the floor pan and connect to the roll structure.
Similar to this, but it had an adjustable bracket up front, which us why I suggested using a trailing arm for the 3rd link.
View attachment 72864
You can go down the rabbit hole of designing your own suspension, (and it's your car, do what you want) but you can also end up with so much frustration that it's no longer fun, unless you just like fabricating things and cutting them back off. I have done some of this, back in the 90s I designed and built my own kart chassis (basically one giant torsion bar) it was very rewarding, however, I would never in a million years want to do it again, I built 4 prototypes, (I used to bring a hacksaw and welder to the track) before I got it right. I really wouldn't wish that on anybody, especially since all the work has been done before, with the sn95 chassis.
The PM3L is a decent solution to the problem, I think some NASA guys are still running them, I would just run the truck (torque) arm and adjust on that, the mid 80 to early 2K Camaros used that system and it worked fine, They still use it in A Sedan.
what do they say about suspension components in the passenger area? That's almost a universal no noCompletely open in CAM.
No restriction. You'd have to seal the hole somehow, but that's not super hard.what do they say about suspension components in the passenger area? That's almost a universal no no
I'm a big fan of the aluminum covers with the bearing girdles, but they get real tight on some PHB during suspension movement, that's why I mentioned that.Above the rear end in that area is the spare tire tub which I’m fine with cutting and moving. At ride height the panhard mount is roughly centered with the diff cover, I think, should’ve taken a picture of that first. I also didn’t think about full droop interference, so I may need to change that. And I was going to make it a slot with serrated blocks to lock the height but those plates are high from the places I found, and with hacking the trunk there’s more room for adjustment at the axle than the front. I’m open for suggestions though, this is just my first draft.
First time poster here, I have an 04 GT with the primary focus of AutoX, until I do some more upgrades and feel more comfortable with taking it to an actual track. I haven't ran the car but a few times but I consistently have issues with the rear suspension not allowing me to exit a turn under power, always lifts the inside rear. My current setup is pretty basic, as I don't have much money to throw at the car with everything else in life going on. I have H&R Race springs, tubular control arms with poly bushings (soon to be modified for heims on one end), MM CC plates, MM full length SFC's, SR Sway bars and racing seats with 5pt cage and harnesses to keep me from sliding all over, running 18x10s with 295s square setup. MM Panhard kit is on the FedEx truck as I type this.
I have done some research and cant find anyone that has converted the rear end to symmetric 3 link setup. I've seen the Steeda 5link kit but I'm not a fan of the upper link mounting to the side of the OE torque box, the evolution 3 link kit looks more like what I want but not a fan of their frame mount either, and I'm not sold on the PM3L. I also want something adjustable that doesn't hang down low like the Torque arm.
Is there a specific reason the upper link should be offset to the right or would a centered link offer more consistent Left/Right turning characteristics?
I'm currently targeting 65% antisquat for nominal position with adjustment means on both ends, is that a good target or should I go higher?
Once I get the Panhard installed I plan on cutting out the upper torque boxes to fab my upper frame mount, so I'm looking to get any advice I can from now until then.
thanks
-Randy
View attachment 72801
View attachment 72802