↑↑↑ Me too, what was your fix?
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Exactly. In short track racing we slow the pump via pulleys and put a restriction in the thermostat housing. Water traveling too fast won't transfer heat as effectively and a pump at racing speeds without the head pressure of a slight restriction (or thermostat) will lead to cavitation and almost instant overheating. That's one of the things I like about the electric pumps, a contestant flow rate that doesn't vary by RPM. The size of the restriction in a small block chevy turning 7500 rpm was typically 9/16 to 5/8" so you can see that its not about flowing more water faster, its about effective heat transfer.More water flow is not necessarily a good idea, more cooling capacity is what is needed. The reason is that water flow that is too fast may not have a chance to get rid of the heat. As an example, if you pull the thermostat out of a car,2 things could happen, 1. the car never gets hot enough and the engine never comes out of cold loop. or, 2. the flow is so fast through the radiator that it constantly overheats.
Those running without thermostats are either managing flow by pully size, or by using some type of restrictor in the thermostat housing.
once you take a heat exchanger, duct it, seal up all the holes in the bodywork with metal tape, do whatever all you can do...then it's all over. once you reach the units capacity for cooling, you are all done, short of using water wetter or some other (not really a bad idea but it's sort of a crutch) coolant scheme, it's time to get a more efficient heat exchanger.
An oil cooler will help, but really, that's an engine lube issue, not an actual coolant problem and should be viewed that way, not as a way to prevent coolant overheat.
Hi Cap,What S197 came with a factory transmission cooling system when equipped with a manual? I might have missed that boat.
The radiator note was received and not ignored, however the radiator was not the cause of my issues (this car is equipped with a fluidyne piece as very clearly stated in the first post). This one is solved, the car now cools appropriately in even hot temperatures; the fix was discovered and implemented outside this post.
Another Trick I used to employ was to put baffles in the aluminum radiators that divert the water across the radiator to make 2 or 3 passes to increase the residence time for enhanced heat transfer. Worked slick.More water flow is not necessarily a good idea, more cooling capacity is what is needed. The reason is that water flow that is too fast may not have a chance to get rid of the heat. As an example, if you pull the thermostat out of a car,2 things could happen, 1. the car never gets hot enough and the engine never comes out of cold loop. or, 2. the flow is so fast through the radiator that it constantly overheats.
Those running without thermostats are either managing flow by pully size, or by using some type of restrictor in the thermostat housing.
once you take a heat exchanger, duct it, seal up all the holes in the bodywork with metal tape, do whatever all you can do...then it's all over. once you reach the units capacity for cooling, you are all done, short of using water wetter or some other (not really a bad idea but it's sort of a crutch) coolant scheme, it's time to get a more efficient heat exchanger.
An oil cooler will help, but really, that's an engine lube issue, not an actual coolant problem and should be viewed that way, not as a way to prevent coolant overheat.
Another Trick I used to employ was to put baffles in the aluminum radiators that divert the water across the radiator to make 2 or 3 passes to increase the residence time for enhanced heat transfer. Worked slick.
More water flow is not necessarily a good idea, more cooling capacity is what is needed.
Understood. The higher end Fluidyne models are like that. 2 and 3 pass like I said with baffles in the end tanks. It was clear when we saw them on the CVR school cars.Just for clarification, I see radiators advertised as "3 Pass" when they are actually "3 Row".
A 3 pass radiator is where the water runs across 1/3 of the core, hits a baffle, makes a 180* turn and runs back across the opposite way, hits another baffle in the tank, turns another 180* and on out the bottom.
A "3 Row" radiator has 3 rows of tubes running across from tank to tank as viewed from the top, but goes through the radiator only once.
Most all of the after market radiators I have seen are "3 Row" but not "3 Pass".
When I ordered mine it was called out as a 3 pass which is why I chose that model.Understood. The higher end Fluidyne models are like that. 2 and 3 pass like I said with baffles in the end tanks. It was clear when we saw them on the CVR school cars.
That is a common problem with website descriptions and pictures. As you say price is a good hint.When I ordered mine it was called out as a 3 pass which is why I chose that model.
Kenny Brown had it on his website labeled as a 3 pass, made a big deal about how special it was in the add so I ordered it, but was disappointed when it arrived to see that it was actually only a common 3 row-single pass. Marketing-Pffft.
I'm not sure what one has to do at this point to make sure you are getting what you think you are getting other than look at the price or have the part in your hand.
I checked his site and as of today it indeed calls it out as a 3 row and 3 pass and the picture shows a 3 pass so hopefully that's what customers are getting.That is a common problem with website descriptions and pictures. As you say price is a good hint.
Yes, they used to sell at least two types, maybe 3 at some point for S197. Single pass, double pass with the oil cooler and triple pass.I checked his site and as of today it indeed calls it out as a 3 row and 3 pass and the picture shows a 3 pass so hopefully that's what customers are getting.
Taking notes here as I am about to embark on exactly this journey...something I missed is what did you mount the bottom of the oil cooler too?Before:
View attachment 55741
After: (though ignore the loose pieces of foam wedged in there, I was waiting on more edge trim and did not take additional pictures after placing it)
View attachment 55740
You can see the additional baffling and diverting I did to pick up air and control the path it takes through the cores. What's missing from the before picture is the top of the top cavity is the exposed upper radiator support. In the bottom you can see the diverter panel to block that off fully as well.
Yes, my duct mounts to those bosses too, just was a little uneasy about adding the weight of the cooler to them as well. I wondered how you had handled that. Thanks.The box itself, which is mounted to the lower condenser pickups on the radiator, the whole thing is very stable and allows for some vibration damping in silicone mounting pads.