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Weekend recap. I'm really starting to like this car and have a bunch more ideas of stuff I want to do to it.
Not to send you down a seriously long rabbit hole, but do you think the revopoint would be accurate enough to scan the entire "duct" fo rthe air curtain and produce a 2 piece 3d printed "plug" that could insert from the front and then secure to the back that would keep that duct from being a miniature drag creating pocket and instead keep things more flush with the curvature of that corner of the front bumper?Quick video making some air curtain blockers. We tested something very similar in the wind tunnel to get data on it and while its a small improvement in downforce and a small gain in cooling, they are both a step in the right direction.
Would it be accurate enough? yes. Practical to do it like you said, probably not. Also, once a duct fills with air, its essentially the same exact things as being sealed. So I guarantee the duct closed from the back vs the front gives the same exact result. But reshaping the front of the duct could change things maybe a tiny bit depending on design.Not to send you down a seriously long rabbit hole, but do you think the revopoint would be accurate enough to scan the entire "duct" fo rthe air curtain and produce a 2 piece 3d printed "plug" that could insert from the front and then secure to the back that would keep that duct from being a miniature drag creating pocket and instead keep things more flush with the curvature of that corner of the front bumper?
Just getting into 3D printing and equally curious about the capabilities of the Revopoint as I am the aero effect of doing something like that.
Interesting. I've seen the ford performance springs rated at 250 front so if steedas are 300, that may be an option. I'll shoot them an email.For stock style front springs, the Gt500 fronts are 280lb/in (progressive) and Steeda progressives get to 300 lb/in. I'm not sure how to access the bumpstops on the inverted front mag strut the 350s and 500's have.
When you get the chance, can you measure how wide apart your rods are from each other? I like your non drilling method of mounting the rods but looking at it, it may not clear the OEM lower GT grille due to the "fin" or whatever you want to call that diagonal part.Revisiting an old idea, but with new capabilities and made myself some compressible splitter rods.
The way they are on the GT350 is they are 30" apart at the top and bottom. But for a different application, by the time you get down to the splitter, since they are on a rod end, they can be anywhere from about 29" wide up to about 34" wide. You can also move the brackets to the outer frame bolts, but would be a longer unsupported middle section so your splitter better be stiff. This puts them at about 40-41" wide at the top and will have the same swing. Another option would be to add a clevis to the S550 bracket, and then you can get just about any swing angle you want. Stuff gets pretty tight with the GT350 having the factory brake ducts and rad ducts and ducts to the oil and trans cooler and lines, so I'm pretty sure a GT would be much easier to get something to work. Some pictures attached of ideas and options. Follow up with me when you measure your car. By the looks of it, the option of adding an additional clevis to get some more inward angle to miss the lower "fin" may be the ticket for GT's.When you get the chance, can you measure how wide apart your rods are from each other? I like your non drilling method of mounting the rods but looking at it, it may not clear the OEM lower GT grille due to the "fin" or whatever you want to call that diagonal part.
Sorry for the late reply but thank you so much for this sir. I truly truly appreciate you taking the time to show that.The way they are on the GT350 is they are 30" apart at the top and bottom. But for a different application, by the time you get down to the splitter, since they are on a rod end, they can be anywhere from about 29" wide up to about 34" wide. You can also move the brackets to the outer frame bolts, but would be a longer unsupported middle section so your splitter better be stiff. This puts them at about 40-41" wide at the top and will have the same swing. Another option would be to add a clevis to the S550 bracket, and then you can get just about any swing angle you want. Stuff gets pretty tight with the GT350 having the factory brake ducts and rad ducts and ducts to the oil and trans cooler and lines, so I'm pretty sure a GT would be much easier to get something to work. Some pictures attached of ideas and options. Follow up with me when you measure your car. By the looks of it, the option of adding an additional clevis to get some more inward angle to miss the lower "fin" may be the ticket for GT's.
View attachment 79313View attachment 79314View attachment 79315View attachment 79316View attachment 79317
Yes, rods go to the chassis. Trailing edge bolts to the factory undertray/bellypan. Factory 350 or 350R lip just hangs out there in OEM location and mounting but doesn't attach to my splitter in anyway.Are the only chassis mounting points via the rods?
Did you do away with the factory belly pan?
It looks like the factory lip is bolted tot he splitter as well?
Since you have done all of this R&D for the 350, will you also incorporate those changes like the beveled edge and rear profile to the GT splitter kit you offer?
Sorry for the questions I just admire your work.