VP's Stay Frosty Racing fluid really works. It does NOT mix with any type of antifreeze or glycol and it's expensive. But it works.
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I have everything wired stand alone so that as long as the main battery switch is on I can bring anything i want into operation with or without the ignition switch on. I don't run a thermostat. I just start the motor and warm it up on the way out of the paddock or wherever with the water pump and intercooler pumps off. Same when I pull in. I shut the motor down and the fans/water pumps run until the temp is stable then I just shut everything down.On the electric pump: The other benefit was running it post race to continue cooling. What was missing though was the fan, I need to wire a trigger/override to engage it with key on engine off. I may add a dedicated coolant sensor and make my logger run a PDM output to it.
I'm not committed to either pump yet, but I'm still pouring through the data, assuming the water pump didn't have a higher maximum temperature, to your point it was pretty close based on the data we have.
The next steps (I posted this in several places and received some feedback):
The biggest concern is twofold: airflow through the cooler; since I have the whole assembly boxed, there's a pressure rise, and much of that pressure is behind the oil cooler, negating its ability to use convection. Its been recommended for me to box the area between the oil cooler and the radiator, or move them closer and seal the stack with foam.
Put back the plates I removed from the enclosure that boxed the inlet coming back up to the oil cooler front (for the lower opening)
Additionally, get the fan to come on sooner and use a 160F thermostat
Between the two revisions I hope to see improvement, and will test the car as soon as I can.
that's why I want some thermostatic control. Some idiot forgot to turn on the transcooler all last weekend.
Ideally I 'd like a warning light for everything to make sure nothing goes too far past normal without being switched on but that's a lot more wiring for me to get Kevin to do.that's why I want some thermostatic control. Some idiot forgot to turn on the transcooler all last weekend.
Also, maybe this Ford high flow water pump can help:
5.2L "GEN 2" WATER PUMP KIT
5.2L "GEN 2" WATER PUMP KIT|Ford Performance Partsperformanceparts.ford.com
But if the issue is your radiator doesn't have enough air flow thru it, it may not matter how fast the water is recirculated.
I have not heard any issues regarding the pulley other than it required a 4-bolt pulley. I have not seen any different Ford pulley made for this pump nor any aftermarket lightweight pulley that is specific for this pump. If there is only one comment I would take that with a grain of salt.
As far as more Flow being better - only if the rest of your cooling system can take advantage of it. See this thread for more info:FP 5.0L and 5.2L Gen2 Water Pump with 30% increase in flow
5.2L "GEN 2" WATER PUMP KIT Retail: $210.00 https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-8501-M52APerformance water pump kit for 2011-2019 5.0L and 2015-2019 5.2L engines. Pump delivers 30% improvement in flow over standard pump. Kit is comprised of OEM components with minimum allowable...trackmustangsonline.com
Ron Davis is your friend
that's why I want some thermostatic control. Some idiot forgot to turn on the transcooler all last weekend.
Captain, what was the fix?What S197 came with a factory transmission cooling system when equipped with a manual? I might have missed that boat.
The radiator note was received and not ignored, however the radiator was not the cause of my issues (this car is equipped with a fluidyne piece as very clearly stated in the first post). This one is solved, the car now cools appropriately in even hot temperatures; the fix was discovered and implemented outside this post.